While shouldn't have damaged the coil anythings possible new old doesn't really make any difference far as that goes, test it or if you have another one on hand try it see if that makes the difference.

 

Ok put a new coil in it, still nothing. Looks like Im getting spark on the passenger side cylinder bank, albeit a weak one, but nothing on the drivers side.

Also, how many firing orders were their for this engine? I always thought it was just the standard 13726548. but I saw on google images today apparently some believe there is another firing order which is 15426378. When I first called for help with this I called a car guy friend of mine. Now keep in mind that I labeled the spark plug wires before I pulled them for the comp test, and put them back the way they came off. He gets there, checks google on his phone, sees the 137 firing order and chuckles at me saying I had wires in the wrong place. Now before we switched to the 137 order, from whatever it was, it would at least cough and sputter some. After switching to 137, we then got nothing at all, no pops or anything.

Today I saw the 154 firing order, and decided to try it for the hell of it. No start, but I did get the popping and sputtering back. Which I guess is a step forward?

 

13726548 is correct for the 5.8 and is listed right on the intake manifold, right up front.

Having spark on one bank and not the other is near impossible condition. Sounds like have a "PIP" issue, have you tried starting it with the SPOUT jumper removed?

If that fail to produce a run unplug the PCM from the main engine harness, see if spark good spark returns.

However if you have good solid bright white spark out of the coil? your spark issues are downstream from that point, cap rotor wires plugs one or all of the above.

 

There is a good chance that your timing is just wrong. It would be very rare for the damper to be 180 degree out exactly. Why would you need to start from scratch anyways when just doing a compression test?


Line up the crank damper to the mark
set the dist to #1
put the rest of the plug wires on in the correct order
Pull the SPOUT
Use a timing light to set timing.

If it still doesnt fire turn the crank pulley 1 more time around to the mark and reset the dist to #1 again.

 

What is this SPOUT?

Also, I already replaced the distributor about 10k miles ago due to a bad pip sensor

 

Just happen to have a picture of that handy,



Jumper must also be removed it to set base timing.

Did you by a new distributor or a re manufactured model instead from say from autozone for example? word is those remans from places like AZ are no good, suffer PIP issues and or outright failures and right off the shelf.

 

I'm not positive where I got the distributor from it may have been from Napa. I do think it was remanufactured though. If I'm still getting spark from the distributor can the PI P still be bad?

 

It really seems suspect that your damper slipped exactly 180 degrees. Like others said line up your timing marks, look at where your rotor is pointing and use that as #1.

Back to the basics. It was running before you pulled the wires off. Stands to reason that it won't run now because you have the wires mixed up.

Said another way, my 302 the wires are a different length for each cylinder. They really only go on one way. Possible to switch 1 and 2, but hard to confuse the rest.

Basics...

 

ok... UPDATE!

Truck is running again. Turned out to be the ICM. Truck then ran but very badly.

Brought the truck to a local shop, where the owner (very nice guy) said he was a ford tech for around 6 years and worked on these trucks a lot. He told me the truck was very out of time, but even when he corrected the timing, he could not get the truck to run while having the SPOUT connector in. Once removed, the truck runs decent, but still has a spuratic miss.

Any ideas? Truck isnt throwing any codes.

 

No codes at all? That could be a bad PCM, it should at least throe the all good 11 or 111.

 

Thats what im thinking. Anyone know which comp it is for a 95 5.8L F250 4x4 No power anything/Auto Trans

 

Hold on.. was this a good runner motor before you pulled all the wires off? Was the distributor removed at any point? If so the answer is simple it's 180deg out.

 

No it wasn't running fine. The opening post stated I was diagnosing a miss

 

Go back to square 1, bring #1 piston(passenger side front) to TDC on the compression stroke, verify that the crank balancer is pointing at 0.. if it's not you're not at the right TDC, and if the distributor rotor isn't pointing at #1 post on the cap remove and restab the distributor so that it does.

 

Would the truck being out 180 have anything to do with no 111 code?