One black one black with lt-blu stripe, injector blower coolant temp switch.

At the shop now or?

I just read your old thread, yea I'd agree you have a electrical problem and by sounds of it, as it effects both injector banks and equally based your statements. Two separate circuits, odds both damaged equally be slim so likely problem is before that, sounds like grounding issue to ECC (subford covered that). Its getting there (or just getting a false read) but its so weak its not enough to pull injectors open spray fuel.

Those circuits need testing, locate where the problem is.

 

No not at the shop I'm working on it at home because they didn't want to deal with it.
(To hard?)
If you have a wiring diagram for the relay it might be helpful i used an old one that i think is still in my truck, i would go get it but its raining pretty good here and its 10pm. But first thing in the morning i will jump back onto the project. I might have the relays wired wrong i suppose i tried moving them around a couple of times but always ended up right back where i started because they just seemed right not sure what to do now. I replaced the fuse links coming off the starter solenoid the other day and made sure the black with green stripe wire had a good ground on the negative battery side. It has a new ECM could it be bad too?

 

I doubt the new eec is bad, might be but doubt it. Seems to me they'd test them before sending them out.

Verify the truck cab is grounded to the engine block.

Verify pins 40 and 60 at EEC harness connector are getting solid contact to bat ground.
Verify pin 20 at EEC harness connector has solid connection to engine block.

EEC pinout diagram,

Fuel Injection Technical Library » EEC Computers (scroll down you'll see it)

Connector with 60 pins, "EEC-IV".

Make sure the harness connector is free of corrosion, no green stuff down in the little holes! If in doubt get a can of electrical contact cleaner and flush it out, check em all.

Make use you apply a thin coat of dielectric grease after cleaning connector, little bit goes a long way don't over do it. light smear over every hole is enough, just enough so each pin gets a light coat on the way into the connector.

That's after you've checked out every circuit.

Test every circuit for continuity.

For example test injector circuit, test injector bank #1 first. Set your multi meter for "continuity" touch one probe to pin 58 in the EEC connector, touch the other probe to each of the injector connectors Tan-org wire injectors 1,3 and 5. You should get a strong reading, very near touching the probes directly to one another. Also test the circuit for continuity to ground.

Then once satified everything with that circuit tests ok move on to the next.

Next test injector bank #2, do the same thing as above but now between pin 59 EEC connector to injector connectors Tan-red 2,4 and 6. And again verfiy does not have continuity to ground not even a little bit.

Then check pins 20 40 and 60 as mentioned above, verfiy they have good continuity to their appropriate ground.

This testing shows the wires are good, no continuity = no juice flow the wire is damaged/burnt/cut/broke/pinched whathaveya.

If circuits test out ok, you know the harness connector is free of corrosion all pins are clean they make solid connection with the EEC when its in place, and still no start? then you know to look elsewhere but you must do that first. Myself based on what you've stated in your old thread and this one I think that testing will show you where the problem is.

No not at the shop I'm working on it at home because they didn't want to deal with it.
(To hard?)

Yea its a time thing, its gonna take time to narrow it down and "time" you probably don't want to foot the bill for either!, better off doing it yourself.

Post back when you've had time to check it out and or have more questions somethings not clear.

 

Hey my #20 ground is grounded to chassis not the engine block is that a problem

 

Not likely that condition in of itself is enough to cause your issue, book I have doesn't go into details at all far as grounding for the earlier models.

Regardless you should have a ground strap run from the firewall of the truck to the engine block, if you don't? install one.

 

This is what i got so far still no luck!
I have to hot wires all the time two yellow
one wire that kicks on when key is turned (white/blue)

other wires
solid black (not sure what it goes to)
red (Test to pin #59 so i think its the second bank injectors)
red (Another red wire i believe it is supposed to kick on at ignition but it don't)
tan (goes to test #6) (Fuel pump i believe)
brown (not sure what it goes to any help would be nice)

can take pictures and post as a link to Facebook but i'm not sure how to post them any other way, i'm not to computer savvy.

 

Or i can post pictures to Photo bucket i just created a account!

Thanks for hanging in there with me!

 

Red wire should show battery voltage key turned to "run" or "start" positions.
Red wire is power to few things on the engine including power to all of the injectors, injector banks do not have separate power supplies. If you only have power to half of them find out where the problem is in that circuit.

Do you have a wire diagram to work from or do you need one?

Any pictures posted to facebook might not be visible to others here, take me for example, no FB account.

Better option get a free account from hosting site such as Photobucket (there are others too), upload your pictures there and then link to them here.

 

Perhaps this will help (if you don't already have one),

 

On the wiring diagram there i need to find the blue fuse link because the red wire does not have power with key on.

What should i replace it with like a 20A inline fuse?

 

Are you sure the EEC relay is good? and that it has key "on" power to it via Wht-lt blu wire?

Might be the fuse link feeding red wire out of the EEC relay yea but might be the failure is before gets there..... unless you already tested both those points of course?

 

Are you sure the EEC relay is good? and that it has key "on" power to it via Wht-lt blu wire?

I just bought the EEC relay last year.
Perhaps it could be bad but i just had it tripping the other day?
The red wire use to have power but now it wont kick on i think i blew a fuse link of some sort.

The red wire does trip a sensor on top of the throttle body though which it didn't before.

 

Unless they didn't test it.....just blew smoke up your ***, "30psi" tested at the fuel rail tells us the EEC relay is good and getting power out beyond that point that blue fuse link is "good".

 

I'll go test my relay real quick! I have a couple ideas to try tonight. Its pitch black out now but i got a light. I'll get back with ya tmro sometime what i find out.

 

Ok but your last post suggests you have now lost more than you've gained, if you do not hear the fuel pump run when turning key to "run" for a second or so, check the fuse links over at the fender mounted starter relay.

You'll see couple large posts on it, the Positive cable from the battery will connect to one of them, the fuse links will all be on that same post.

Check them all but the one most concern with if no longer hear pump run will be "Brown".

Don't assume you have one bad connection either, its possible you have several all combine causing you grief, might be one but likely to be more than that depending on where you live, that comes into play too.