Hello i'm new here, my name is john i'm starting to build a 1950 F1. I might be considered a novice builder i just finished a 23 T bucket Roadster it's pretty cool. I just picked the F1 and have a good idea what i want. I going to try a Mustang 11 front end with a 9 inch ford rear end. I haven't decided on Ford 302 or Chevy 350 power yet i'm just waiting to see what comes down the pipe at a good price. I do have in my possession a 351 Windsor i could use but it feels a little large for the engine compartment looks like steering might be a problem. This is where my first questions comes in. Should the Mustang 11 rack and pinion be in front of the cross member or behind? My next question is whats the easiest way to keep the rear springs and lower the rear end 2 inches. Last question is should i take out any rear leave springs and which ones to soften the rear end ride or am i out of control here. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Welcome. some knowledgeable folks here that can probably help you out.

 

Welcome John, sounds like a fun project. Me I prefer brand loyal on motor. I am still also a noob but I still have some knowledge. Mine lies more with the Effies (53-56) and Trans Am/Camaro (Ick).

 

Welcome to FTE! We love pictures. The truck and the T bucket.

Here is an article on the Mustang II IFS
Front Suspension Alternatives for 1948 - 1960 Ford Trucks, Part Two .: Articles

Some experts will be along soon.
I prefer brand loyalty as well, but price and availability are big factors. The 351 should fit fine, I think several guys have them. Again some experts will be more than happy to explain issues you might run across installing the engine you get.

Jeff has gone with the 351 and he outlines his steering issues is his thread. Check this thread out, it has some great info.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-49-f321.html

 

Thank you for the front end link it was helpful. I will post pic's as soon as it's possible. I bought this truck about 2 weeks ago it's in great shape with the orgional 239 flat head V8 that was in supposedly good running order. I have all new glass, new front chrome bumper, all new rubber for the doors and windows. new gauge cluster and wiring harness. I have all the insulation for the cab. New bed support rails. I have the fenders off I've been sandblasting them in my work area getting ready to prime them and start some body work. as soon as i get the front fenders off i will pull the flathead out then start the front suspension.

 

If the flathead is a good motor why not just update trans, maybe T5?

 

Hey John welcome Home, I think you will enjoy being part of the family. I have a 50 F1, with a 302 and c4 combo that I love. I started with no knowledge once so ever and with the help of the great folks here at FTE, I haven't run across anything that I couldn't deal with, and have had a ball building my truck. Looking forward to seeing pictures of your truck.

 

I think i might be a little hard on a motor that old even if it was rebuilt i'm afraid i might break it when i start stomping on the throddel too much

 

I will up load pic's as soon as i get enough post to allow it. I see your in northern California. I'm down in Bakersfield boy is it hot here.

 

Welcome to fte & like the other guys have said these guys are great & very knowledgeable & very willing to help good luck with your build & I also like to stay with a ford

 

AFA the MII type IFS: Don't try to use a salvage MII front suspension! You will need to use an aftermarket crossmember and extended rack. All I've ever seen were front steer (rack in front of the crossmember) since the MII was front steer the steering arm geometry on the spindles are designed for front steer. If you drive easy and your local roads are smooth you might get away with using OEM stamped sheet metal control arms and spindles. The OEM brakes are really anemic. Remember the MII front suspensions were originally designed to be as cheap as possible for the lightweight Pinto econobox grocery getter. A much better alternative is to use a complete hub to hub aftermarket MII type IFS that uses virtually no OEM parts. They use a HD rack (usually from a T bird), custom made tubular wishbone upper and lower control arms (OEM lower stamped control arms were a single pivot with a long steel bar trailing arm for stability) spindles with improved geometry, brakes sized suitable to your truck's front end weight.
If you want to use salvaged IFS, the Jag IFS practically bolts onto the F1 frame and is an excellent IFS and matches your front end weight nearly perfectly.
It's easy to lower and soften the rear suspension by removing every other leaf, adding slider strips between the leafs. To lower futher you can move the rear spring hangers further up the frame by drilling new mounting holes.

Your engine compartment will hold just about any engine smaller than one from a Sherman tank.

 

Hello, and welcome to the forum.

That 351w is the same width as a 302 or 289....just a little taller. It will fit right in. Some guy offset the engine to the passenger side by an inch to make more room for steering. You will need a couple of U-joints to make the connection.

Google these companies to look at some hub to hub MII setups that will work well on your F1 frame: Fatman Fabrications, TCI (which stands for total cost involved), Speedway Motors, Heidts. I'm sure there are others. There are bolt in and weld in options. One of the big hang-ups is that the MII crossmember goes under your engine, so a rear sump pan becomes necessary for most of the installations. To answer your question, the rack is in front of the crossmember.

It could end up looking something like this:

 

Thanks to all who have posted replies and information it's been helpful with my decisions. The front end will be aftermarket M11 with tubular control arm's. Now what about power steering yes or no?

 

I went with a manual rack....my current vote would be to use a power rack!

Dan

 

These trucks have a lot of front end weight, and you may want to use a smaller steering wheel, have a S.O. who will drive on occasion and have driven vehicles with PS most of your driving years, so IMHO go with power. If you find it too sensitive, you can always put an adjustable pressure reducing valve in the line or regulator in the pump.