Well the T19 is out, but the truck is quite literally in pieces and I won't be able to compare the ZF for quite a while... by then the truck will be a whole different animal. Good luck with that T19, looks like it needs some love...

 

Progress seems to take an eternity around here... but here is the close ratio Scout T19 adapted to my (non-Ford) bell housing. I'm cleaning up the internals but haven't repaired/replaced the worn shift fork yet.
Does anyone have a picture of an aluminum T18 3/4 shift fork end? I wonder if it would be feasible to adapt replaceable T18 nylon 'faces' to the end of a T19 fork?

With any luck, I'll have this heavy bugger installed "soon".

Cheers,

Pavel

 

Here's the internals of the T19 after a "wipe down". There's still surface rust on many of the teeth. Perhaps some gentle steel wool treatment will be sufficient to take the iron oxide away.

Also, is it necessary to flush all the sludge (which contains fine corrosion particles) out of the bottom of the case? If so, what's the best way to get that material out without disassembly?

There is an internal paper filter available for these transmissions - has anyone used one?
https://scoutparts.com/products/?vie...oduct_id=13491


T19 not clean enough yet.

 

I would say for flushing I would use diesel fuel or kerosene, drain plug open at bottom, pour it over the gears.
If you reuse the flush filter it thru a clean rag like a Tee shirt before pouring it back over the gears.
Dave ----

 

Thank you Dave.

Kerosene sounds better than "Varsol". If memory serves, "camp fuel" is kerosene. I'll post another picture after cleaning.

Pavel

 

Don't know what camp you came from but camp fuel to me was Colman's fuel or "white gas" also known back in the day as todays unleaded gas.


"Fire water" was any gas you could put your hands on to start a wood camp fire.

Why I said Kerosene or diesel (varsol?) is it is more oily than normal gas that would wash any oil on bearings, etc. off and may also hurt seals.
Just my .02
Dave ----

 

Ah ha! Yes, was I thinking of the stuff we used to run "oil lamps" on... coal oil? Clearly, it's been too long since I used any of this stuff. I'll get some real kerosene.
I should be able to pour the stuff into the bottom of the case (and mess it around with a bent test tube brush) without covering the gears. I'll also flush with the old 80/90w oil before adding new.

Cheers, Pavel.

PS: Isn't "Fire water" the stuff I've been pouring down my gullet for decades?

 

Hi Pavel,

I wouldn't worry about minor surface rust on the gear teeth. Once you drive it, that rust will quickly get scrubbed off. Change the oil after a few hundred miles for peace of mind, if desired.

To clean the sludge, I'd suggest filling the case with an inch of kerosene or solvent of choice. Let it soak overnight to soften the sludge and then drain it. Maybe tip up the transmission as much as possible to let gravity persuade the softened sludge to vacate the premises. You might have to repeat a few times. If you pull the PTO cover, you could probably get in there with a rag to get any last bits out of there. I think the key is to let some solvent soften the sludge first by soaking for as long as possible.

Interesting to see that transmission filter. Never heard of that before. I'm assuming it catches oil being slung off to the side by the countershaft gear, and the oil flows through the filter by gravity before returning to the bottom of the case. No idea how well it works, but for $120+, you could buy a lot of gear lube and still come out ahead, with fresher lube to boot.

 

I wouldn't worry about the rust either, but probably would remove one of the PTO covers and stick a strong rare earth magnet to the bottom of the case.

 

I wouldn't do that Pavel......the old oil will be full of tiny particles of steel from the damaged fork, & other normal wear.

My T19 has a magnet welded to the floor of the case; I assumed it was from the factory because there was no evidence of it ever being rebuilt.

 

Thank you gentlemen (Kr98664, ArdWrknTrk & Ken) for the good advice! I will follow it.
When you look at the expensive Scout intra-transmission roll filter, it looks like something the Brits would have designed... they are just now discovering toilet paper is better than newsprint. Please forgive the outrage!

Pavel

 

Pavel, I'm just in the middle of finally installing a rebuild kit from Novak into my T19 (have intended to for 3 years).

I had said above that the magnet on the floor of these transmissions was welded in place.
Now that the trans is stripped down, clean & dry, I can see it's glued not welded.

 

Ken, Yes, it seems to take too long for me to get anything done... perhaps my expectations are unrealistic. I'm at the 2 year mark on this project.
You have to wonder what "glue" BW used that still holds a magnet to the bottom on a 35 year old transmission casing - obviously very good!

I haven't got to the transmission cleaning exercise yet, I'm struggling with the T-case controls. Let's continue to pretend this is a Ford application...

Cheers, Pavel

 

A little time has gone by, but I'm happy to say that the T19 is clean, installed and in use now (the vehicle has been driven only about 25 times so far). The transmission works perfectly and is quiet. I may have lucked out on this unit. My only complaint is that I have trouble finding 3rd gear occasionally - mostly when shifting down from 4th to third. This could be because of the worn 3/4 shift fork. The pin and ball slot at the base of the stick seem to be in decent condition. I've noticed that the spring that stops accidental reverse engagement seems to be too weak.

Overall, this T19 upgrade has been a success and has made a big improvement in vehicle driveability.

Pavel.

 

Good to hear it turned out good.
Since you first posted I got my 81 F100 with a T18 on the road, 11 / 2019, and found it was well used.
at times going to 4th it would hit reverse and make a hell of a noise
Also when down shifting from 4th to 3rd it would grind even double clutching.

I should back up a little, when first on the road the top cover was leaking so when I pulled it I found the plastic shift fork ends missing all but 1 so I replaced them.



Looking inside I seen some chipped teeth and bad synchros so I know it's days were numbered.

I found a member selling a NP435 and after checking it looked like a direct bolt in so I bought it.
Well if dropping the trans to do a swap might as well add over drive so I bought an Advance Adaptor range splitter OD unit.
Took a while to get here as I ordered it just as this virus hit.
NP435 cleaned and painted ready for install

Over drive unit

OD installed on the back of the motor and the NP435 on to the OD unit

I did not want the OD stick to come thru the side of the tunnel so I bent the stick to come thru the transmission pan.
I had an extra pan from my parts truck and cut & welded it to work.

Someone gave me a used carpet from an auto truck and the other reason to cut & weld the pan to keep it as low as I could so the carpet would fit right.


The NP435 shifts real nice compared to the T18 and the OD is also nice up on the high way.
I have not driven it much as it got hot and the truck does not have AC yet, working on that now.

I think the T18, T19 & NP435 all will swap as a bolt in for the same type of truck, 4x2 to 4x2 and 4x4 to 4x4, based on my T18 to NP435 swap.
Dave ----