Ok, I'm over thinking this I know.....

Do you think it would be advantageous to use a tool like this:

to grab onto the collar to help break free the manifold bolts? Logic being to turn everything instead of just the bolt head?

 

The weather is finally warm enough to even try this. Started about 8:45am to remove the wheel well. Got that out (always fun) and the passenger exhaust is looking right at me. Soaked the bolts in PB-Blaster, knowing full well that they will not reach the threads EVER waited a little bit and was able to pretty easily remove the remaining 6 bolts without breaking any more of them. I am relieved at that. The two broken bolts are broken slightly inside the head. I had hoped that they would be exposed to attempt without drilling, but that is not the way my luck goes.

I have 2 sets of left handed drill bits which I HOPE bite enough to remove the bolt. I am slightly more confident that once I get a hole in the broken bolts, an extractor has a good chance of removing them based on the other 6.

Break time over....

 

Prob to late on this but, the first and very important step is center punching the broken bolt. Start light and verify you are DEAD center in the circle. Once you are satisfied you're right on it, finish with firm swat or two to keep the bit from walking. Be very aware of the pressure you are applying to the drill motor and the angle you are drilling at. Dont rush it by pushing too hard, let the bit do the work. Start with a smaller bit And work up in size in two or three steps until there is maybe 1/8 (or less if you got the center punch right) of the perimeter of the bolt left in the hole. It's better to use a smaller EZ out that grabs farther up it's legnth than a larger one that grabs on the tip. A little luck doesn't hurt either .

 

It's fighting me big time! The top bolt is accessible, the bottom, I am not sure how to drill that one.

 

Both of my rear lower bolts were broken inside the block
I used a right angle air power drill and about 10 drill bits
I borrowed it but they are less than 30 dollars in harborfreight
I didnt have any problem getting the air drill in there

 

having a little practice at this before...
as stated use heat. map gas is hotter then propain and the set up cost is about the same, this is assuming you dont have either a oxy set up of any kind sitting around, most folks dont.
next wicking in some candle wax has worked but it wont always.
drill all the way threw the bolt if possible tring bit keep it centered.
this kit from snapon is about the best I have ever used snapon bolt extractor - Yahoo! Search Results i dont know if you can by it from some one else though.
use a quality bit ad a quality extractor, breaking either of them off in the head you will be learning how to pull heads and sending it to a machine shop to have them drilled.
do not over drill and land in to the water jacket of the head. mark the bit to the correct length to make sure you dont over drill.
exhaust bolts are rather hard meterial as well so it will take some time to drill threw

 

Is the water jacket behind the bolt? Good idea on marking the bit, I wasn't doing that. I am using left handed bits, and had high hopes. Any suggestions on the bottom front port?

For kicks, I asked my local dealer about how much, they told me 5 hours labor

 

in using this method ( they work great too) use one for 17mm. this is how we get 03 turbo bolts off.

 

i never had much luck with left handed bits, but trying never hurt, also make sure you a your drill motor in reverse while using them.
yes the water jacket is behind the bolts

 

I don't even want to look at my manifold bolts after this my eight winter of salty roads. Gawd. This is a real horror story LOL.

 

Oh bottom front ...i thought you had a problem with the rear

 

I'm not doubting you, but why use a 17mm extractor for a 10mm turbo or exhaust bolt? Seems logical you'd use a 10mm......

 

I think that I am through the bolt. I stopped just short of my mark on another hole. I ended up breaking a drill bit, but thankfully it was small, and it extended out of the hole so I removed it completely with some vice grips. So I'm plenty concerned at this point but I will forge ahead.

The broken bolts are both on the front port passenger side. The bottom one is going to be a challenge to say the least. I may get the top one done and send it to someone who has more patience than I do.

So, for the sake of worst case scenario's (which is often my case anyway!) I have an oxy set, but no gas! So I used my propane torch (have to run out to get MAP gas) and tried the candle trick. I don't think that with the hole in there it'll work too well.

Break time over, back to the grind.

 

Oh, yeah.... so the worst case thing. Can I hell-coil it?

 

I considered tapping it a little oversize and drilling out the hole in the manifold if it came to it
Not sure why that wouldnt work
the holes in the manifold are already oversize
Helicoil would probably be ok too if the hole was centered