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F1 Jag IFS Soft Mount or Weld in

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Old 01-17-2012, 09:38 PM
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F1 Jag IFS Soft Mount or Weld in

I picked up the xj6 front suspension, now the question is should I use the original mounts and dampners or trim it up and weld it right in. I guess I want to know if soft mounting the subframe will provide that much softer of a ride. Sure would like to hear your suggestions.
Remi
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:40 AM
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Haven't done one but my guess is the ride wouldn't be any softer but road vibration may be less. I briefly considered that option when I installed my Volare but I could not have gotten the truck as low as I wanted it...
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:50 AM
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I installed mine based on Jaguars design. What ever there reason I figured those engineers are way smarter than I am. I can lower the front easy by spacing the lower control arm. I guess your question comes down to: What do YOU what to do?

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Old 01-18-2012, 10:16 AM
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Not an expert but I have seen some posts on the subject and from what I can recall many installers have not only mounted the crossmember rigid, but they have also welded in gussetts from the shock/upper a-arm towers to the frame.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:17 AM
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I havent done my swap yet, but Im leaning towards soft mounting it myself, for pretty much the reason that 48 steel said. I figure the Jag engineers knew what they were doing.

Wanted to add myself though, to see what others have to say.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:22 AM
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I have no dog in this fight, so to speak, but the F-1 frame is flexible, compared to the Jag unibody. Welding the subframe to it might be inviting cracks where they are joined. Rubber biscuits with bolts allows some compensation.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:54 AM
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Well I guess I am a guinea pig here! I welded mine to the frame. And I welded boxing plates from the front crossmember to the rear crossmember just in front of the rear axle. If it cracks then I will know better next time! I cut the arms off the front and have some strengthening plates welded between the outside of the frame to the JAG coil towers(for lack of a better description)
I wanted mine lower than stock and it is. If I want it lower, there are more options, 48Steel mentioned. Now if I just could take it for a drive..
I am a long way from that, but the front end is in and there is no turning back now! The front swaybar mounts to the bottom side of the frame, like a factory fit, with the front JAG arms out of the way. I have pictures in my albums. they aren't organized well, but I can get more if interested. The only question I have, how will the alignment turn out. (Caster,Camber)
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:06 AM
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I will also say that if you are looking for something closer to stock height, that the soft mount will be better. Also if you soft mount it, you COULD have the ability to adjust it front to back to allow for wheel alignment issues(if any).I don't have that option.
And as far as ease of installation, soft mounting is the way to go.
IFS and frame rigidity go hand in hand (so i have read all over) and if you look at IFS overall, factory boxed frames back that up. So there is my input!
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:34 AM
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Jeff, more pics please!

Im curious Jeff, did the fact you were using a 351 have any influence on your decision? LIke with rigiding up the frame and whatnot?
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by preppypyro
Jeff, more pics please!

Im curious Jeff, did the fact you were using a 351 have any influence on your decision? Like with rigiding up the frame and whatnot?
No, not at all, I boxed the frame because IFS likes rigidity, that's the main reason.
As far as pics go, I am at work, but I will get my butt out to the garage tonight and take some. Any particulars you want to see? I have it coated with CHASSIS SAVER now and it's already dusty from doing other things. I will blow it off with the air hose first, but no polishing! I don't have shocks on yet and my end links for the sway bar are too long, so I don't have it on. but if needed I can bolt it up without the end links.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:48 AM
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Well I just like to see many pictures of peoples work No particulars, but when I start on my ifs install, that request may get a little more specific!
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:51 AM
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Interesting thread, and I always try to add myself to the Jag threads as I have an XJ6 sitting at my dad's place waiting for time and money to collide so I can rip out its guts and put it under my truck.

Given the design of the subframe, I don't know that rigidity is that much of an issue in the frame itself. I plan to soft mount, at least at first, for the ability to easily adjust ride height as I like. I'm not one to slam the truck to the ground. Never put thought to a "need" to box the frame.

???

Peace,
Jim
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by preppypyro
Well I just like to see many pictures of peoples work No particulars, but when I start on my ifs install, that request may get a little more specific!
10-4 Good Buddy! I am the first to admit, my build photos are not organized and I haven't spent much time on them. I am weak in that dept.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff and Nicolle
Well I guess I am a guinea pig here! I welded mine to the frame. And I welded boxing plates from the front crossmember to the rear crossmember just in front of the rear axle. If it cracks then I will know better next time! ...
If you boxed the frame that extensively, then my comments wouldn't apply so much. A lot of people just bolt the Jag to a stock frame, which IMO doesn't work unless you use biscuits. You are 100% correct, IFS needs a stiff platform to push against.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:04 PM
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Well, on my 53 GMC pickup (yeah yeah, not a Ford, but the discussion is relevant) I cut off the front Jag arms with the large rubber bushing. The crossmember cleans up nice without those large arms going forward. I then welded the crossmember in solid to the frame. Paying attention to the caster, my calculations put the crossmember right at the bottom of the frame in the GMC, and I made filler plates to take up slight space in the back to account for caster. Could have made it lower by notching the crossmember into the frame, but right now I should be about 7 inches to bottom of running boards. A nice level for a good driver. I can fine tune height later with spring changes or spring pocket lowering. I also used the Jag IRS, with the stock cage, but welded the stock cage to the frame and did not use the Jag rubber mounts. This requires making the lower arm radius rod to have to be in line with the lower arm pivots at the diff. Triangulation of the pivot points, otherwise it is in bind. The factory Jag setup has bind with the radius arm going forward, but the rubber bushings take care of that. Since my rear is hard mounted, I need no bind.

Truck is still in-work and not done so no driving results, but I expect it to ride real nice.
 


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