Might be this is the wrong part of this forum to post this question but here goes, my 52 2 spd rear end..... a few years ago it was explained to me how these worked, I forgot I guess.

I am fixin to go out there and fart around with the electric motor again, I remember that juice would move a screw type gimmick up and down and that would affect something inside the rear end, I guess when I start messin with it the memory may come back to me.

I guess I need to get the electric motor to a repair shop, I remember it was working intermittently and I dont know why. Truck only shows 20 some thousand miles on it ( ex fire truck and condition leave no doubt in my mind that the mileage is accurate ) so its hard to believe that the motor is shot.

Any tips or experiences/explanations would be helpful


Ok not as bad maybe as I thought, seems the electric motor is fine, spins in both directions ok although it sounds like its running on dry bearings.

1- Has anyone had one of these apart and greased bearings, I am assuming there has to be two end bearing at least in there. Maybe the shaft is just runnin in bronze bushings? Either way any maintenance suggestions?

2- The culprit that is causing the most problems it would appear is the end bearing in the case, not sure why there is a cup below it, was it to hold grease or oil maybe, now that I think about it there is ( what I am guessing ) a fill plug on the outside of this case, anyone recognize what I am referring to and tell me wether I am supposed to fill this with oil up to the fill plug line or am I just supposed to grease the bearing?

Bearing was locked up pretty much but with same brake cleaner I was able to free it up and it spins pretty well now.

Does anyone have a good bearing number in case I need to go that route?

 

Heres a picture of what I am assuming is a fill plug, someone stuck a bolt in it. I dont know if it makes sense though to have fluid in there the more I think about it, there are electrical contacts in there that feed the electric motor mounted in the cylinder above it and contacts within this case that open and close to turn on and shut off motor.

What gives ?

 

I don't know anything bout how it works but as far as the bearing number, you should be able to purchase one by dimension. Take it out and measure it and call a bearing house. They should be able to help. Judging by your photo it looks like a high capacity bearing.

If you take the bearing out I'll bet you will see a number on the other side.
Also, when that bearing was made the industry did not have bearings that were lubed for life. Nowadays you can get bearings that are sealed for life and do not require oil. If the bearing is the only reason for the oil reservoir I would be tempted to use a sealed bearing.

 

Thanks, if I had looked closer I would have seen just directly above what I was assuming was a fill hole stamped USE SAE 10 Oil

I guess that pretty much answers the question about it being a fill hole. The bearing ( now that I have freed up ) spins quite well, I will grease the cup under it so it helps feed the bearing and fill the unit with oil up to the hole.

I may call Eaton and see if they have anything that helps in regard to how to better maintain it in case I am missing something.

There is a mediocre video on you-tube maybe done by Eaton years ago that show how the two speed operates in case anyone is interested.

 

abought the only thing goes wrong with these is the points of electric contacts i used trans fluid in all the ones i worked on shifted faster in the cold. make sure rubber between motor and axle is in good shape. the fun part was getting the shift fork to align back up. put plenty of jelly on out side connections.

 

Thanks, what sort of jelly, I know what you mean but I dont have any and not sure what its officially called.

It just occurred to me why the motor is whining, it was all originally 6 volt and I have 12. I am lucky I did not burn it out from extended use of messin with it.

They sell the 12 volt version I think but for the spurts this thing will get used Ill wait until the 6 volt burs up, prob. outlast me though.

I see the selectors on e-bay, 8 bucks plus 3 shipping or 18 with free shipping, anyone have any experience with these e-bay ones, I wonder if they are junk.

 

its called dielectric grease same as used on brakes. the 6voilt will work fine as its just short bursts. some units need oil two times a year. dont know where the oil goes other inside diff. as long as diff oil dont get in all will be fine. all selectors dont last as they start rattling and drive ya nuts so guys use a rubberband on button to get rid of rattle.

 

If my memory is right the truck has to be moving for the two speed axle to shift. I am going way back and from memory and I don't remember if the one I am mentioning was vacuum or electric shift. I mention this because as no more than a kid I was cautioned to never get the truck where I needed all the gearing and have it in high range. May have been fictional and may have been truth.

 

Thanks for the responses, will look for the die-electric, can that be found H.D, maybe Ace?

Luckily I have the original metal plaque ( I think ) that tells me how to go thru the shifting motions, to be honest I am kinda hoping not to ever have to bother using it, hoping it will just remain in high, if it does not I may find a way to make sure it just stays there.

I can see any conceivable reason that I would ever need the low.

 

if you have a automatic hooked to it dont shift sitting still will hang-up between the two at the worst possible time. it will stay where you put it. use the clutch to shift. let off throttle lightly when shifting up, and throttle up to down shift with out clutch. usely around 500 to 700 rpm difference. will rattle if you are missing. practice

 

Thanks Rod, I do have a stick though

 

The bearing kit # is B2Q4094A, there is also a rebuild kit # C2TZ4A098A. Dennis carpenter and Green Sales both appear to have them in stock.

 

Thanks for the info, I will print and save for future

 

Can anyone help me a wiring diagram for the 2 spd setup, I am needing to know the wiring for the switch, I am assuming I am going to have 3 wires coming out of switch, one for the high range, one for the low range and a power coming in but I am guessing there has got to be a ground somewhere.

Thanks for any comments, have not got the switch yet but am trying to get wiring done regardless.

 

I was able to find this diagram on-line but it is not specific to my truck ( not that it has too be ) Still dont see how all of this is getting grounded though unless it is thru the motor.