1992 F-150 Running Cool
#1
1992 F-150 Running Cool
Hey all,
My truck is running cool. The needle sits on the first line of the normal range, so the gauge does move.
Here are some things I've done to the coolant system:
New upper and lower hoses.
New radiator and cap.
New thermostat.
Flushed and filled.
The heater blows warm, but not exceptionally hot. The upper hose doesn't get firm, even after running for a while. Neither does the lower hose. The lower hose remains cool. The upper hose gets warm, but not too hot. The radiator gets warm, but not too hot. The radiator cap remains cool. When I remove the radiator cap, even after running a while, there is little to no pressure release. My heater lines are hot.
So, am I looking at needing a new thermostat or a new water pump?
My truck is running cool. The needle sits on the first line of the normal range, so the gauge does move.
Here are some things I've done to the coolant system:
New upper and lower hoses.
New radiator and cap.
New thermostat.
Flushed and filled.
The heater blows warm, but not exceptionally hot. The upper hose doesn't get firm, even after running for a while. Neither does the lower hose. The lower hose remains cool. The upper hose gets warm, but not too hot. The radiator gets warm, but not too hot. The radiator cap remains cool. When I remove the radiator cap, even after running a while, there is little to no pressure release. My heater lines are hot.
So, am I looking at needing a new thermostat or a new water pump?
#2
#5
I think stock is 195, so that *should* be what they gave you. My truck with a 180 T-stat never would run warm enough to run the heat very strong in the winter. I still think the T-stat is probably your problem though, that's really the only component that can make it run too cold. I've had the same problem in a Crown vic of mine where the thermostat broke into two pieces and was just functioning fully open all the time.
#6
#7
I would suspect the thermostat too. Get a 195 Motorcraft one instead of an A'zone one.
Can you hear the fan spinning all the time? Check to see if your fan can be rotated by hand with minimal effort. If so, the fan clutch isn't stuck.
Are you sure its running too cool? Whats the temp gauge read?
Can you hear the fan spinning all the time? Check to see if your fan can be rotated by hand with minimal effort. If so, the fan clutch isn't stuck.
Are you sure its running too cool? Whats the temp gauge read?
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#8
I agree with texasguy. Replace any OEM brand t-stat with genuine manufacturer part. Just replaced a junk t-stat from parts house with correct t-stat from Mopar @ $30, but it's not worth my time to change again when another, "Certified" mechanic replaced it with a $10 one. Also as texasguy stated, check the operation of the fan clutch to eliminate it as the problem as well.
#9
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#12
I busted a hose 3 months back driving and drained my coolant system that way..just put water in it last saturday. It threw fits at me for at least two weeks after I replaced that hose.. It was never satisfied about its level.. It either sucked it all up and I put some more in the reservoir and then when I learned it and went to do something and I come back with water all over the ground.. I opened the hood and found the cap off with water all over the tank. Its just been sucking it in now, hadn't throw it back out.
#15
All,
I just checked and my fan is spinning the moment the motor starts turning. I can turn it by hand with the motor off, but it won't freewheel, ie it will stop spinning if I'm not actively turning it.
Is my fan clutch bad? And if so, am I smarter just hauling off and replacing the water pump while I'm at it?
I just checked and my fan is spinning the moment the motor starts turning. I can turn it by hand with the motor off, but it won't freewheel, ie it will stop spinning if I'm not actively turning it.
Is my fan clutch bad? And if so, am I smarter just hauling off and replacing the water pump while I'm at it?