Pressed in clutch downshifting off highway, and ping, and stayed on floor. I got under the hood and found the half of stud and nut in the eye of the master cylinder frame.

Needless to say there were two red lights ran, a lot of really angry folks behind me, and 3000 rpm in 5th gear in 4 lo is about 26 mph. Good to go this morning.... when the master is to be changed someday, it will require two people with a bolt vs stud in there. Hope that is not for some time, glad the wife was willing to it under the column with a magnet then finger socket driver.

 

That's crazy Nik. It's a good thing it didn't happen during a panic stop!

Rev-matching and shifting a ZF5 without the clutch can be done, but I wouldn't recommend it, would you?

 

This exact same thing happened to me a couple years ago. I put the clutch in to come to a stop at a red light, and ping, straight to the floor. I shut it off thinking I would just start it in gear to get through the light and to the side of the road, but I forgot about the NSS! And of course this happened on one of the coldest days of the year.

 

Yeah no kidding.

Uh after doing it, yes it can be done but its incredibly jerky, 4 lo or not, partially due to the fact we had a full load coming home, but no, wouldn't recommend it unless in a bind.

 

Well I had never heard of this nor thought it was possible to break off a decent sized stud with the clutch pedal, but I guess you confirmed it happening to others. Before i left for hunting i was telling my wife how impressed i had been with how many minor issues the truck had over the last 200k, and literally within 2 weeks i regret saying that!

 

Did you ever find any upgrades for the brake situation? I'm sorry but I haven't read this whole post but caught something about cracked rotors and weak calipers. I upgraded mine to Chevy calipers and slotted rotors and it stops way better

 

My truck has always to me had a brake issue, any other obs including the fummins, and other 350 work truck lock the fronts up on command. Ol blue brakes well, but does not have the bite or pressure to do so. Right front pads always wear funny, even after rebuilding the calipers, and I can lock up the right rear under hard breaking. I was hoping to find a caliper from SSBC similar to the SD units vs stock.




Here are the picks of the front toasted rotors that were drilled and cryoed, i went with only slotted this go around.

I am not exaggerating that the truck sees 15-18k every day. Trailer weighs 7356lbs empty, and we have scaled on a regular basis at 16+ up to 23-24 for the trailer loaded alone, not including truck... and a horrific pin weight. Need a bigger truck, but we also need better brakes on this one. Something is not right and has always been that way.

 

These Chevy rotors are like 11.5 and the Ford's are like 10something. The calipers are only single piston but apply more pressure. If your buying all new anyway maybe it's something to consider

 

231 for a zero loss booster, plus the cost of a master. I replaced the master on the donor truck a while back as well. I'm really leaning towards hydroboost and new calipers.


$380.35 Hydra boost Ford E8TZ-2005-B
$56.57 Pressure from hydraboost to steering box, passenger side fitting Ford F4TZ-3A714-A
$33.64 Pressure from PS pump to hydraboost, drivers side fitting Ford F4TZ-3A717-A
$20.90 Return line from hydraboost to PS pump, drivers side nipple Ford E8TZ-3A713-B

Donor truck has all of them I believe

 

I will look into that further... chevy make a set for the front of a BJ D60 4x4 non dual?

 

Yes they have a kit to fit the ball joint 60. It's a lugnut 4x4 kit. Has brackets and all parts needed

 

Where is this kit you speak of?

 

Welcome to Lugnut4x4! - Lugnut4x4

 

Been a while,

Update on the brakes, I ended up going with new OE calipers, the slotted cryoed rotors, and Hawk pads. Much better but there is something wrong still. I can lock the rear brakes up before the front, front won't even lock. I figure the proportioning valve or master is not functioning properly. Once I get the time the hydroboost will be going in.

You guys can roast my ***** for this one, I put a new rear end in the white CC a couple months back. The rear end was picked up by one of the crew and I never even mentioned to confirm 3.55, when I installed it I was in a hurry and never even spun the drum to check ratio, it was tagless and I was told it was a 4.10 from a fellow I have purchased a lot of parts from the parts out 94-08 fords. Well the other day I finally drove it the first time, its absolutely a 3.55 rear end! Luckily the guys never needed 4wd and they have been driving it for a couple months. So I get to swap it again, and likely will be a christmas chore! I couldn't believe it due to my lack of paying attention when I put it in and being in a rush, fully rebuilt it too, outside of a pinion and carrier bearings... what a waste. Being the only 3.55 rear truck I have ever driven with a 7.3 auto, man its nice to do 80 at 2100 rpm, but its is absolutely a turd pulling anything, let alone a measely 7500 lb chipper.

The white turd also has a push button ignition, I am not sure what they did with the wiring on this truck but once I did the column I found a security overide, full gps tracking unit, and ignition shutoff under the dash. I'm wondering after we bought it and that system was shut off if that's what disabled the ignition in the current wiring. Didn't matter with a new switch, column, tumbler etc. She starts now with the key on, redundant toggle with a momentary push button. New front shocks and leafs, rearend swap, and sending unit in the rear tank, and I'm done with throwing parts at this pile!

Ol blue crapped the bed finally, I'm not sure what happened as I was cruising along, and lost 4 cyclinders, passenger side bank shut down. It will fire on all 8 and then hit 4 quickly and throw a CEL. one of the pins on the front plug looks toasted, hoping a new pigtail solves the issue, outside of the IDM shutting a bank down. Up until then it was nice to have it back and running properly. I wired the fuel system all tershiary off the strictly diesel harness, I would not suggest buying it again as it did not do its job when the can shorted, and nearly lit the truck on fire.

On the plus side we are going to bump up the fuel and air on her again and see if she will blow from the abusive towing. The Luk clutch is still holding together somehow, but a SB is on the way, and there is a s369 supercore sitting on the workbench for her. My up pipe bellows popped a leak so once again we get to fix those. (never model Irates beloow location!!!!) Maybe the old style gen 2 66 can go in the 4700?

Big news is we added a couple 4700s with 7.3s in them to the fleet. I looked and looked for a mechanical 466 vs the 444s, but they are few and far between, let alone with a chip/dump body on them. Trucks are not here yet, but I'm chomping at the bit to get them. Both come with Spicer 5 spds, and have 58k miles on them. Outside of the ordinary I would absolutely like to throw a few more ponies at them. Being 02 motors I really don't know what to expect for injectors, I have seen so many variations over the years in medium duty trucks. Seen quite a few of them with mechanical vs electric fuel too. Wonder whats will be in the motors... Tuning will be interesting as well as they probably have that super cool round port vs an OBD2 port like the SDs. Either way maintaining 6 7.3s now is going to make for one heck of a patience developing experience... I hope with less than 60k miles they are still in tip top shape mechanically, as they were advertised to be, but they are not the pretties fugly yellow duckling trucks on the planet.

 

Sounds like fun! Glad you're getting after it. Business must be good if you're investing in the equipment. Glad things are going relatively well for you.