I don't remember off the top of my head which one I tied into, but I tapped into a fuse in the under hood fuse box. Next time I see the truck I'll look at it.

 

Use the fuel bowl heater wire to trip a relay and power the pump (through a fuse) off the relay. That way all that fuel bowl heater wire is doing is "turning on the switch". That's the easiest (and most proper) way to do it , IMO.

 

Thanks a bunch guys. I will do just that. I forgot the amperage to the pump went through the harness I purchased, and I'm just looking for a "trigger" power source. That will work out great. Thank you again. I hope tonight will be the last bit of fooling around with it and I can drive it into work tomorrow and see what its truly like. I'll wait 20 miles or so before I stomp on it and see what the 366 puts out. I am curious what the manifold pressure change will be across the board. Hook up to the goose neck on the 4th, that will be its first real test.

 

Haha, sounds like fun! You want to do the shakedown run on a trip to work!? Your are brave sir !

 

Yeah good point :-) ... Work has been very iffy recently, hence the activity on here has increased. I feel pretty confident though, I figured if it were to leak, she already would have. Maybe a trip to the car wash Thursday evening might be a better idea. Either way I'm ready to get back in it.

 

Agreed, Take a fire extinguisher with you.. you never know. Would suck to show up late you work because, you know... the fan hit the radiator or something...

 

There needs to be no talk of fire extinguishers...but yes I should probably take one I also hope nothing hits the fan...absolutely nothing, or the radiator!

 

Not sure if you poke in on my build thread, but lets just saw it has happened before ....

 

I agree with the fuel bowl heater as the switch power. I put a fuse into the dist. box and used the mt relay spot in there for the pump power

 

That's what I'll likely do as well.

I also picked up a little fuse box out of a car at the JY that I am contemplating mounting under the hood to power a bunch of accessories and house the fuses and relays.

 

I knew i had visited it once before. I just read through the entire thread. Nice work! You did exactly what I wanted to do...build it all from scratch. Unfortunately my wife wanted a house, and this entailed selling my soul to working and no free time when accounting for house projects.

That being said, you took the steps that I wish I could have in rebuilding your block. Turned out great. I am still searching around for a spare motor to build, but until i find one, I want to follow up with a set of beehive springs, studs, and push rods in this block and cross my fingers. Then I will run it till till the rings are shot(Don't think they are far off)

The ingenuity to seal off the garage the way you did was excellent, I bet your neighbors had to chuckle a little bit as they drove by and saw the tail end of a ford handing out of the garage.

I saw the fan mishap, now I understand that comment a bit better. Fixable?

I have seen that method before as well. I was just looking for a key on trigger source as the strictly diesel harness comes with a relay, fusable link, and controller inline already. I agree I would have preferred to do this, the time and parts are what are hard to come by for me though.

 

You got your water hooked back in Nick? I have a feeling you'll be able to tow all you want with hardly even having to look at the egt's. That's how mine was last year, and I've made it better with a wicked wheel in my 366, and I don't have water, and tow a lot. I hit 40lbs of boost unloaded last year, 43 loaded. I've hit 46lbs of boost testing this winter unloaded. Last year I could run in OD at 1200*, 40lbs of boost.


I think you'll be extremely happy.

 

Man I honestly can not fathom that kind of manifold pressure when towing, or the power/tq that goes with it. Most I ever saw was 28 post cooler on my old setup in the 140 tune from DP. Problem was I could never tow with it, as my EGTs were uncontrollable and the tuning was way off. I could only stay there for a few seconds, and could peg my EGT gauge if I wanted, even with water. After watching my fuel pulse width I do not believe it was tuned correctly for 160cc injectors, but rather stockers, as I was seeing over 4.5ms on fps. It would dump so much fuel, snuff out the turbo from lighting, black out the entire block, then by the time the tubo lit, I'd be out of gear and in meltdown territory on the EGTs... Until a reburn I am not comfortable really running out of the stock tune. When I towed heavy though before, I never ran anything but the stock tune, so this will be quite the change for me. I'm pretty darn excited too! Once I get the truck rolling I'm going to pull the chip. I have contacted Jody about getting another reburn and upgrading to the F6 from the F5. Hopefully after this last go around I can leave it all alone.

I have yet to do studs, springs, and rods. I pretty leary of really stomping on it till I get those in. That will not be till next winter though. Truck funds have been cashed out and I am still paying the transmission off.

I went ahead and hooked the water back up, but I think my shut off solenoid may have been damaged from a freeze when we hit near 40 below earlier this winter. I kept it in a heated shop at night, but sitting in the parking lot at work, I believe my feed line froze. My washer fluid in the tank was frozen. Anyways I will go ahead and keep it hooked up and troubleshoot the solenoid. Pump is good. Might turn it on every once and a while to clean out those cylinders. I hope I do not have to rely on it like I did in the past. Even the modified stock turbo couldn't flow enough in a stock tune to keep it cool enough with the bigger sticks.

Thanks again, and man am I looking forward to it.

 

Well I'm glad I didn't take it to work this morning, as I would have had a mess on my hands. I snuck out of the house late last night for a bit after the wife passed out, and let it idle and go through its first true heat cycle. I tried adjusting the down pipe a bit but it still does not seal properly/ Glad I let it do this as I found two more small leaks. One was my fault, the other...yeah it was my fault too. I forgot to tighten the drain tube down on the turbo side. Fitting was nice and tight, but the tube needed a few turns. The second was that darn fitting on the passenger side head. I ended up getting a longer 1/8 npt nipple and replace the 3/4" long one, retaped everything and think it turned out pretty good. No more leaks, beside that effing down pipe! Fired it up and let it run for a while, I'm sure the neighbors were not happy about that, but hell now they know what all the cussing and boxes of beer by the weekly trash created.

Anyways I'm going to pull the 37s off it tonight and put the street tires back on. First trip is tomorrow out to a timber site I will be working for the weekend... we will see how it goes. Wife is going to follow most of the way and peel off to her families, so I have a cab ride home to get a trailer if need be.

Thanks again for all the help and advice guys! I love this place!

 

Sweet! Here's hoping the maiden voyage goes well.

If you ever change your mind and decide to pull the W/M injection off the truck, let me know. I'd be interested in it ever with the damaged solenoid. I'd like to put a setup on mine simply for the steam cleaning properties.