then i would say no problem then...

i woulda thought so too.. but apparently theres a difference too between the gear oil itself and engine oil rating... Royal Purple, chevron and AMSOIL all seem to have it and say its different than motor oil... but cant find it anwhere...

 

Front
Differential, Front......GL-5
All TEMPS......90
SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT)
75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT)

Rear - you need the friction modifier too if you have limited slip rear.
Limited Slip Differential, Rear Ford......GL-5*
All TEMPS......75W-140 [2] [3]
SEVERE GEAR 75W-140 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVOQT)

 

Really depends on the configuration, nut it looks like as long as its a V8 and the trailer isnt over 2000 pounds you should be good.

Here is the most extensive chart I can find based on engines, cab and 4vs2 drive.

Its the far right one. F150 Automatic (assuming)

 

if i went with Royal purple i wouldnt need the modifier... "Max Gear is formulated with a friction modifier additive – no additional additives are necessary."

 

lol parking brake for 1990 f250 4x4 info by chance?

 

Big mistake, trust me. Add the 1 bottle of friction modifier. Way too many people have had failures with RP and Mobile 1 syn LSD without adding the 1 bottle of friction modifier from Ford. The $6.00 for a bottle is worth saving the $2500 rebuild you will face unless you are going to upgrade to a locker later. The friction modifier makes the synthetic fluid more slippery and they dont run conventional from the factory anyhow. If it was a Mustang or 1/2 ton then might not be a problem, but all that added weight back there from a dually puts a lot more stress on the ring and pinion.

The 6.0 series of trucks are very sensitive to the fluids throughout the drivetrain.

Even the transmission requires a Ford only brand of fluid that is only available at the dealer. Nothing is an acceptable substitute.

 

Sorry, I dont have it for that gen truck. Only the 99-07 years.

Whats the question?

 

need to figure out how to diagnose why it doesn't work

problem is i don't know how it works when it works so not really sure where to start

 

didnt know that...

had heard about that on the transmissions...

 

Its pretty basic. When you push down on the parking brake lever, it pulls a cable. That cable in turn applies pressure to the parking brake mechanism which is located on one of your rear axles.

If it isnt working, then either the cable is broke or needs to be retentioned or the sliders or springs in the mechanism are frozen or broken.

You have to pull the drum cable off to see whats happening. Pull the drum and have a friend apply the parking brake. Then you can see what is going on in there.

I'd trace the cable first. Likely it has stretched or broken over time.

 

I buy it by the case. I have a few cases and filters if you want to pick some up from me. No biggie.

Remember the trans has 2 filters.

 

cases of the SP trans fluid you mean??

that i did know about them... was gonna work on that next month hehe... gotta fix what i already broke first lol...

 

Both rear parking brake cables on 87-96 freeze up, No cure.

Good thing they're only $8, and $12, lol

 

Ah, thanks! I believe it's the 5.4L, so I should be good. Just need to figure out a towing solution...

 

Yup, cases. Remember, I had 3 5r110 trucks so I wanted to keep a supply. Now I have none and it just takes up room.