Please HELP!
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I got my OBD1 scanner today, code book said the mating plug would be under the hood. Went out to the truck ,(1987 F150 302) and couldn't find the plug under the hood. Looked under my 1990 F350 hood too and no plug. Are they under the dash?
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Mine are 1987 and 1990.
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UPDATE - Some tests done -
Fuel pressure 32 at idle, (when it would idle,) close to 40 when gassing it.
I performed the KOEO test - no bad codes appeared. Tried the KOER test, engine won't idle. Fire right up, runs for about 5 seconds, dies. If I play with the gas I can keep it running but of course that isn't right and only occasionally it will misfire. Can't tell if its in the intake or out the exhaust.
Won't idle. Fuel pressure is good, right? 32 - 40 lbs. ?
Any ideas?
As a recap - it was running baby butt smooth and beautiful one day, the next day, misses badly if you try to goose the gas enough to move it around. Won't idle.
Nothing comes out the tail pipe as if it might be too rich, or too rich enough to see. I need to get 'er running asap.
thanks
Bruce
Fuel pressure 32 at idle, (when it would idle,) close to 40 when gassing it.
I performed the KOEO test - no bad codes appeared. Tried the KOER test, engine won't idle. Fire right up, runs for about 5 seconds, dies. If I play with the gas I can keep it running but of course that isn't right and only occasionally it will misfire. Can't tell if its in the intake or out the exhaust.
Won't idle. Fuel pressure is good, right? 32 - 40 lbs. ?
Any ideas?
As a recap - it was running baby butt smooth and beautiful one day, the next day, misses badly if you try to goose the gas enough to move it around. Won't idle.
Nothing comes out the tail pipe as if it might be too rich, or too rich enough to see. I need to get 'er running asap.
thanks
Bruce
Cargo Master
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From: Des Moines
I just thought it'd be easier to read. Which it is right? I won't need a code book right?
(Thanks!)
PS - I thought I'd better reference this too - I changed the rear end because the truck was used to put boats in the Pacific and salt water had completely ruined the diff inside. Plugged the wire back in the top. But I wanted to mention this because the problem came up right after the rear end change.
(Thanks!)
PS - I thought I'd better reference this too - I changed the rear end because the truck was used to put boats in the Pacific and salt water had completely ruined the diff inside. Plugged the wire back in the top. But I wanted to mention this because the problem came up right after the rear end change.
Also, go here: Fuel Injection Technical Library LOTS of good information for your era truck.
Can't help you on if the FP readings are good or not, but what I can say is that it's possible the TFI module is acting up. If you have a wire harness hooked into the distributor, the TFI module is mounted directly on the distributor, or it's mounted somewhere on/near the driver side fender, in the same area you would have found the OBD plug.
I don't know specifically what your TFI should look like, but this webpage has pictures of all kinds of them.
List: Search for 'ignition module/control unit/ignitor' | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Keep us updated.
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Rear end plug is plugged in properly. Thanks for the links. I will look them over and let you know. .
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Just ordered a 87 factory shop manual. And I need one for my 1988 F350. Anyone have one for sale? The people that put my new exhaust on broke several hard plastic vacuum lines and I need to figure out where they go.
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Before I try a new ignition module - aren't they either working or not? Is it possible for it to work intermittently? Because it fires right up every time and idles smooth as a kitten, for about 5 seconds... then dies.
Cargo Master
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From: Des Moines
If you took your truck to a shop and they broke the vacuum lines, THEY are responsible for fixing it, not you.
The ignition module may be malfunctioning, so you need to get it tested. Once you remove the screws from the distributor, the module needs to twist to be removed. The plug end of the module needs to either go up towards the distributor head, or down towards the engine block. It will only twist one way. I don't know for sure but you may feel it "release" when it's twisted far enough, BUT DON'T FORCE IT. If it's being difficult, slowly work it back and forth using WD40 to lubricate it. Also, common sense, but make sure the wiring harness is unplugged for this.
About any auto parts store will offer free ignition module testing, so once it's off, take it in. The big ones do for sure [O'Reilly, AutoZone, NAPA, etc.].
From the problems you're describing this is definitely an electrical issue within the ignition process, we just have to eliminate suspects one at a time.
Keep us updated and we will keep guiding you.
The ignition module may be malfunctioning, so you need to get it tested. Once you remove the screws from the distributor, the module needs to twist to be removed. The plug end of the module needs to either go up towards the distributor head, or down towards the engine block. It will only twist one way. I don't know for sure but you may feel it "release" when it's twisted far enough, BUT DON'T FORCE IT. If it's being difficult, slowly work it back and forth using WD40 to lubricate it. Also, common sense, but make sure the wiring harness is unplugged for this.
About any auto parts store will offer free ignition module testing, so once it's off, take it in. The big ones do for sure [O'Reilly, AutoZone, NAPA, etc.].
From the problems you're describing this is definitely an electrical issue within the ignition process, we just have to eliminate suspects one at a time.
Keep us updated and we will keep guiding you.
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help!
AAuugh! This ignition module as most of you already know has two deep sunk teeny screws that I can't reach with any normal 1/4 drive socket. Is there a special tool to reach these. And it looks like the dist will have be loosened and turned at a minimum, if not pulled out completely. Not the end of the world but I'm looking for tips please.
thanks
thanks
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Got it out - got it checked - it's ok. Took coil out - it's ok.
Next to the coil was what looked like a condenser - I took it to AutoZone and their record show a 1987 F150 doesn't use one of these. No one knows what it is. It is plugged into the harness.
Anyone know what it is? Don't know what it is so I don't know how to test it.
Nothing has changed. Truck fires up - runs smooth for about 6, 7 seconds, dies.
Next to the coil was what looked like a condenser - I took it to AutoZone and their record show a 1987 F150 doesn't use one of these. No one knows what it is. It is plugged into the harness.
Anyone know what it is? Don't know what it is so I don't know how to test it.
Nothing has changed. Truck fires up - runs smooth for about 6, 7 seconds, dies.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland, WI
Does the truck stay running if you apply the throttle? You've got ignition since the truck starts and runs. I'd be looking into fuel management/sensor problems at this point. TPS, IAC, and MAP come to mind. The MAP sensor relies entirely on a "closed" vacuum system for it's signal, so if there's a broken vacuum line somewhere, it will cause problems.
