"found some hoses that were cracked and missing."
You're on the right track here.

"it started running like crap after warming up."
When you start your truck cold, it runs in a pre-set "Closed Loop" setting. The "Closed Loop" ignores the various sensors and their readings untill the truck warms up to "operating temprature" via the coolant temprature sensor (the one at the water pump).
Once at "operating temprature" the computer "sees and reads" all of the sensors and adjusts itself for maximum driveability and fuel efficency.ie. spark advance, air/fuel mixture

"And you can hear a suction.."
If there's a vacuum leak that you can hear, it's pretty severe and the "computer" may not be able to compensate (air/fuel ratio via the O2 sensor and injectors) for it running lean. You've got to find ALL vacuum leaks and fix them ie. 5 small leaks = 1 large leak.

"But DOUBT its why its running like this..."
Well, once you have an appreciation of how the "computer" works and operates with your truck, you'll change your mind on this one.

"I dont think it could make it start running like crap after it warms up..."
"Closed Loop" into "Open Loop" as above.

You've got to have all the sensors and hoses hooked up and correctly in order for your COMPUTER CONTROLLED truck to run correctly. Ford didn't program these "computers" to run without some or any emission equipment or missing vacuum lines or modifications to the "Origional System".

All of the above is for nothing however if your "computer" has a problem.......which is why I provided you with the link "ECM's Failures Due To Age".
I'd take the time and pull your computer out, open it up, and just take a look for any "obvious problems".
You really should add a "visual inspection" of your computer into your repair strategy.
It may save you alot of money and alot of time.

Keep plugin' away and keep us posted,

Bob

 

Okay, So now I'm leaning FAR from it being a sensor/hose/etc. Ive been doing some research and Found MANY post about the SAME exact problems I'm having. Theres alot of complicated reasons as to why but I think overall its just not getting fuel... Brand new gas tank, in tank pump, side pump, and fuel filter. SO! those are obviously working but apparently the PIP can cause the Fuel pumps to shut off... other things lead to the injectors not getting fuel (all of these are after things reach operating temp) Its not the Parts themselves. I may try and find a new distributor or a rebuilt one... As replacing the PIP is a pain in the a** Also a bunch of things I can check now... I'm at my shop and will be all day so lets see if we can get her running!! By the way? where the heck is the Computer located?

 

Truckin Bob... Didnt notice your reply. Thank you I will make sure to check those things out... I found a new Computer for 70 bux (If it is the issue, still havent looked at it) Of course before spending money I would like to get closer to pinpointing the problem or atleast knock a few options out to save some money on parts that were not needed. I know alot of about vehicles, But I still have A LOT to learn... Things like this are confusing and I have no skill with them... Nor have I ever had to deal with anything like this.. But hey!! I'm upset my truck is running like crap and I cant use it for work/play but I'm enjoying myself despite the money spending and frustration... Next time this happens to me or someone else I'll be of much more help! and hopefully wont need to refer to the internet as I can do it myself !! haha Thanks again everyone and I will keep you all posted.

 

The PCM in your truck is located behind the driver side kick panel. The PCM is removed from inside the cab for your model year (up to 1991 actually).

For reference:

 

Yea I found it. Everyone kept telling me it was to the left of the cd player up under the dash... I yanked that it was for the ABS... course its fried to and I know why my idiot light is on lol But then I said screw everyone and the internet.. they were of no help... nor was the ford dealership.. they didnt even know where it was... I found it tho haha Thank you for helping though. By the way my computer is very dirty.. covered in sand... and the capacitors are shot... Soooooo I guess wether its the issue or not I'm buying a new one... New they are 70 bux The core is 100 haha

 

Mine was doing same thing try a tune up.. Mine was sputtering and the distrib. Was causing a piston to misfire

 

Okay, So I put a new ECU in.... NOTHING... Still runs just as rough.. Is there ANYTHING else worth changing that isnt expensive it may be? Because I'm going to sell it and try and get my money back if I can't get it running. Maybe the Ignition Module? Distributor.. PIP? TPS? .............. I just don't know...

 

Brake cleaner your vacuum lines. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=715281

 

Or grab a spare tank selector switch at the junk yard, along with the tank selector valve, worth a shot.

 

Run your codes. You now have a new computer, it will TELL you what sensors to TEST and possible replace. You really need to repair any and all cracked vacuum lines as well.

 

Its not a vacuum leak. All the hoses are either good, or new. And the switch works. It only runs rough at operating temperature. But runs like its not getting fuel. once its warm it wont run good AT ALL... you let it sit a bit and cool down. it'll run fine. We ran the codes before the new ECU and it did no good. All I can do now is wait till Monday and have the codes ran again I guess. I think its something to do with the distributor... but idk... Ford had recalls on late 80s trucks cuz of heat related problems.

 

Yes that's why they switched from the Distributor mounted tfi to the fender tfi

 

Well, I have heard of this before in cars (in fact I have fixed two with similar problems).
It' seems the coil could be mal-functioning when it gets hot but runs well on start up. I don't know the price but it could be a cheap diagnostic/fix.

 

My previous comment of course is based on the assumption that your ignition is still old school in a 94 and not electronic ignition. If it is electronic ignition the problem can still exist in the electronic ignition vs. coil (not so cheap as a diagnostic venture) and the sugestions for OBD1 diagnostics is preferable.

 

Exactly what pfogle says.

Now that you have a new ECU, it's time to start doing the "what is failing or not functioning correctly process".

Keep in mind, you have/had a LOT of things wrong with your truck.

Keep pluggin away at it, you'll get there.

Bob