Hey, thanks, 1ton! It's working great! Glad you got your 223 back. I saw your post about it on another thread.

 

Way to go Randy! Have fun driving it again...

 

this is a great efi build.
i copy pasted all the information so I have it on hand when I do my swap.

What did you end up doing for the fans? i missed that after you said the 97 tbirds didnt fit.

thanks for posting all this!

 

Hey, thanks CMEDROP!! For the fans I ended up with two 12" fan pictured in post #197. They are being controlled by a Delta electric fan controller Relay Controllers and Accessories. I'm running the stock 195 degree thermostat but so far, with that big 3 core radiator, the fans hardly ever come on. If I remember correctly, the maximum fan depth I could have after installing the 5.0 was like 4.0 inches. The Tbird fan was around 5". I can get the exact measurements but I'm just posting from memory.

I hope to finish up the rest of the exhaust system this weekend and will also post more links to lots of information I've found about this swap along the way.

Let us know when you start on yours.

 

Ok, I guess it's time for some updating....

I'm continuing to tweak things on my truck, finishing up the exhaust, etc and trying to figure out the charcoal canister situation. I installed the canister from the Mustang because everything was set up for it when I planned on using the OEM wiring harness however the aftermarket harness doesn't have the connector for the purge valve solenoid. In order to use the charcoal canister as vent for my fuel tank and also for it's intended purpose to recycle extraneous gas fumes thru the engine I thought maybe I could use a vacuum controlled purge valve like in the pre-EFI engines. I ordered a valve for a 1982 Mustang 5.0. It looks like this:



Here's a vacuum chart from the '82 Mustang showing where this valve fits into the sytem but it also includes some other valves like a vacuum delay valve & vacuum check valve. I'm still researching and sorting out details of the best/easiest way to do this for me but for now I have the fuel tank vented to the canister and the hose that would go to the purge control valve is just venting to the great outdoors. I have yet to smell any fumes:

 

I still haven't done anything with the purge control valve but I did finally finish my exhaust system. It's amazing how extending the pipes out the back can quiet things down so much in the cab. I'm using 50series Flowmasters, which are supposed to be a little more mellow but without tail pipes, they still set off a few car alarms.....

I bought a few mandrel bends from Summit Racing and cut to fit. Here are a few pics:

left side over the axle, around the tank & out the back...




right side.....



Finished up with some 3" tips....

 

Awesome job! Had a question about tranny, did you change the PRNDL plate on the column? I have an AOD in my son's '66 but have to put selector between N & D. Just bugs me. Wasn't sure if it could just be moved over, but thought it should have both D's like original AOD.

 

Thanks, Mike!
I still have the original PRNDL from the cruiseomatic trans. The Mustang PRNDL (floor shift) read PRN,O/D,D,L. The shifter/adapter bracket I made for the trans allows me to adjust the shift pattern so the selector is pretty close to accurate. The difference is that I now select the "white dot" for O/D and if I don't want to engage the O/D, I can select the "green dot". Once I got that dialed in, I had to adjust the neutral safety switch on the lower end of the steering column so it only starts in P & N.
Hope that helps...

 

Was wondering on the fans what amp relays you are using for the fans?

 

Schoo, I think the relays in the fan controller are 30amp relays. I connected it to the hot side of the starter solenoid so the fans will run for a minute after the truck is shut off to cool it down. However, so far the fans hardly ever come on. Only if I'm sitting in traffic for an extended period on a really hot day. The 3 core radiator really keeps the engine running cool.

 

Schoo, I think the relays in the fan controller are 30amp relays. I connected it to the hot side of the starter solenoid via a 30amp fuse so the fans will run for a minute after the truck is shut off to cool it down. However, so far the fans hardly ever come on. Only if I'm sitting in traffic for an extended period on a really hot day. The 3 core radiator really keeps the engine running cool.

 

Thanks 37 I've got a 4core was going to use a tbird fan but they pull 60 amp I read in another post so I'm looking around

 

I probably told you wrong on my fan controller. Many guys using the Mark VIII, Tbird & Taurus fans in the vehicles use this Delta controller. Here's one of the responses from the FAQ on the site:

My fan has a peak current draw of 105 Amps, will this controller work with my fan?

An electric motor generates its own voltage when rotating under load that is typically about two thirds the input voltage, this generated voltage reduces the effective voltage applied to the motor windings by a factor of three and the reduction in voltage lowers the running current by the same amount. When a voltage is applied to a non-rotating motor, this voltage is not generated, and the effective voltage and current are not reduced, so when full input voltage is applied to a non-rotating motor, a non reduced or peak current occurs until the motor attains the working rotational velocity. The Delta controller ramps the voltage up slowly, avoiding locked-rotor current conditions. Moreover, although the Delta controller output devices have a peak current rating in excess of 400A, the controller is internally current limited to 50A short term in order to regulate peak currents and 35A long term in order to protect a shorted or dragging fan. In other words, the peak current specification of the fan doesn't need to be considered when choosing a controller. Top

Here's the link to the FAQ: FAQ

 

Thanks for the info 37 it helps a lot
Roy

 

After having some time to drive it, what kind of mileage are you getting?