1988 F250 460 EFI Rebuild Project
#46
09-10-2012, 03:51 PM
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Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, Tx
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Okay, to followup, everything is at the machine shop (Spreen Racing in Boerne Tx). I talked to Greg Spreen, the owner, and we reviewed the options of doing a stock vs a performance uptick. We elected to do pretty much what the Mad Porter (Scotty from reInCarnation) outlined:
except he has a preference for Comp Cams and was not sure about 113, was thinking either 112 or 114. And he is wanting to upgrade the pistons. Also plan to deck the block.
No pictures or anything. Just wanted to get this update out there. I probably won't have an update for a while.
Headers and free breathing exhaust
Low restriction air intake
180 degree t stat.
Computer compatable cam change. We use the 207/213 voodoo ground on a 113 lobe sep. This will pass Ca emissions. Factory double roller timing set is not retarded.
Port factory intake which will increase flow significantly
Budget ported cylinder heads with 2.11" intakes and std exhaust as well as better valve springs and topping the guides. The EFI castings have good exhaust ports and somewhat limited intakes especially the E7TE castings.
Deck heads .030" to get static c/r up to 9 to 1 with the stock replacement efi pistons.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator to allow richer WOT operation.
piggy back chip for the ecm for additional power via more agressive timing tables and greater injector pulse width. (optional)
Low restriction air intake
180 degree t stat.
Computer compatable cam change. We use the 207/213 voodoo ground on a 113 lobe sep. This will pass Ca emissions. Factory double roller timing set is not retarded.
Port factory intake which will increase flow significantly
Budget ported cylinder heads with 2.11" intakes and std exhaust as well as better valve springs and topping the guides. The EFI castings have good exhaust ports and somewhat limited intakes especially the E7TE castings.
Deck heads .030" to get static c/r up to 9 to 1 with the stock replacement efi pistons.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator to allow richer WOT operation.
piggy back chip for the ecm for additional power via more agressive timing tables and greater injector pulse width. (optional)
No pictures or anything. Just wanted to get this update out there. I probably won't have an update for a while.
#47
11-23-2012, 10:18 AM
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#48
11-23-2012, 05:37 PM
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#49
11-24-2012, 07:25 AM
I am working through your posts...very motivational. I have an 89 F-250 and am contemplating rebuilding it but it is good for now. Pulls my 8k lbs 5th wheel well. A little slow up the hills but I am in no hurry.
Quick question though...how hard is it to put in a wiring harness? I was going to take it down to the base hobby shop and see if I could do it with some help from one of the staff workers there. Whoever had the truck before me has manipulated it and it isn't stock wiring...the idiot put in an amplifier of some type because he bi-passed wires at various places. Now I have a short in the wire that always makes my blinkers not work.
Or, do I just say, "screw it," and take it in to a reputable repair shop that is good with this sort of thing? Please advise.
Quick question though...how hard is it to put in a wiring harness? I was going to take it down to the base hobby shop and see if I could do it with some help from one of the staff workers there. Whoever had the truck before me has manipulated it and it isn't stock wiring...the idiot put in an amplifier of some type because he bi-passed wires at various places. Now I have a short in the wire that always makes my blinkers not work.
Or, do I just say, "screw it," and take it in to a reputable repair shop that is good with this sort of thing? Please advise.
#50
11-24-2012, 08:25 AM
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I'm kind of a rookie. This is my first solo engine rebuild. I've done one other engine in my son's toyota 4x4 pickup but it was with a guy who is a certified mechanic. I've only done mechanical stuff (rebuild transmission, replace stuff, brakes, etc) and haven't ever attempted electrical stuff. I plan to get to it but one step at a time. My truck needs something and it might be electrical to fix the dual tanks.
I recommend that you post a thread just on your question. I have the service manuals for an 88 so I probably have some diagrams that would help but I'm not sure what you'd need.
Thanks for the comment on my post. It's growing on me.
I recommend that you post a thread just on your question. I have the service manuals for an 88 so I probably have some diagrams that would help but I'm not sure what you'd need.
Thanks for the comment on my post. It's growing on me.
#51
11-24-2012, 10:49 PM
Thanks, brother...will post it by itself for someone to potentially ring in with some recommendations. I am a hacker, too. At the hobby shop, I have changed starter..alternator...brake master cylinder, clutch cylinder, put in my 5th wheel electrical to the rear end and installed an electrical J-box with some "overwatch" help in the event I was going to screw it up! Also dropped the U-joint so I had the shaft re-spun and installed it myself. I have never been involved in mechanical anything (since my father is a diesel mechanic who lives a long way from where I am stationed) but I, too, am finding a lot of joy (and PAIN) in this p/u. Maybe this is why sites like this are so important...they are like an AA forum for the addicted! LOL. Have a great weekend!
Mike
Mike
#52
07-07-2013, 11:54 AM
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Took a few months off but I'm back at it this weekend. Installed the oil pan, timing chain cover, heads, lifters, push rods and rocker arms. Having trouble trying to determine if my rocker arms have the right initial load. Anyone know the steps to checking this? As a reminder, I had the heads rebuilt and have a performance cam.
#53
04-26-2014, 11:22 AM
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Wow, I'm revisiting my thread here and realizing how much time has passed since I've done much to this. I have the intake manifold attached and I'm ready to prime the oil pump and put the distributor on. I have a question though, since I'm moving slow, does should I hold off on the priming of the oil pump until I'm closer to dropping it in and starting it? My books say this is the next step but I'm guessing that I'm 4-5 weeks away from dropping it in the truck.
And the next question and about the gas in the tank. It's almost 2 years old at this point. I'm assuming that I need to drain and flush the lines before running gas into my new engine. How do you do that?
And the next question and about the gas in the tank. It's almost 2 years old at this point. I'm assuming that I need to drain and flush the lines before running gas into my new engine. How do you do that?
#54
04-26-2014, 11:43 AM
I'd say prime it now. It will keep things from rusting on the inside, keep lifters lubed and not stick from potential rust. You've taken quite a break on this project if you last worked on it last July.
Old gas isn't really that big of an issue, I would put some seafoam in the tank and top it off with fresh stuff, but I do not recommend driving it hard until you get 100% fresh gas in it. If you're worried about the ethanol fuel and phase separation, then your best bet would be to siphon the gas out and then burn it in your other vehicles. A little bit of old gases and going heard anything, top it off running a bit and then change your fuel filter run it some more and call it a day.
Old gas isn't really that big of an issue, I would put some seafoam in the tank and top it off with fresh stuff, but I do not recommend driving it hard until you get 100% fresh gas in it. If you're worried about the ethanol fuel and phase separation, then your best bet would be to siphon the gas out and then burn it in your other vehicles. A little bit of old gases and going heard anything, top it off running a bit and then change your fuel filter run it some more and call it a day.
#55
04-26-2014, 01:25 PM
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#56
04-26-2014, 03:01 PM
I just finished the exact same build last week and cranked it on Wed. I assume you used assembly lube on all the bearings so prime the pump and turn the crank some and prime again. turn the crank fully over 2 times so you are back at tdc then you will be fine. The pump will stay primed.
Also I noticed that you tore the top end down to remove it. Install every thing on the motor even the accessories and brackets and all the top end stuff except for the Throttle bodies and mount.
You can just unplug the wiring harness and wire the intake stuff up on the stand and replace the crappy vacuum lines and throw the airpump stuff in the trash. It really cleans up the engine bay
Also I noticed that you tore the top end down to remove it. Install every thing on the motor even the accessories and brackets and all the top end stuff except for the Throttle bodies and mount.
You can just unplug the wiring harness and wire the intake stuff up on the stand and replace the crappy vacuum lines and throw the airpump stuff in the trash. It really cleans up the engine bay
#57
04-27-2014, 06:02 PM
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#58
04-27-2014, 07:16 PM
#59
05-06-2014, 07:35 PM
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#60
05-06-2014, 08:09 PM
Ummm.... Same way you're supposed to.... Bring cyl 1 to tdc with both valves shut (power stroke) and put distributor in with rotor pointing to number 1 plug wire of dist cap.
No one cares what mark you made on intake or whatever, new timing parts mean that the only thing of value are timing marks on balancer (if outer ring hasn't rotated) and pointer of timing cover. Even if you don't have those you can still do it.
No one cares what mark you made on intake or whatever, new timing parts mean that the only thing of value are timing marks on balancer (if outer ring hasn't rotated) and pointer of timing cover. Even if you don't have those you can still do it.