Really odd problem
#107
Ooo, naughty. LOL. Didn't catch what I said at the time. Not a bad idea now that you mention it. Ok. Took apart and being cleaned. How important is that heater? For some reason my wire has been cut. Anybody know what the ohm reading should be so I can check it? Pretty sure I zapped that fuel pump today. When I was reinstalling I pushed the spring all the way in and then screwed on that cap nut. Guess the tit on the nut didn't line up with the end of the spring and the spring bent over 90° and got between the nut and plunger keeping the plunger from opening. Probably put to much stress on the pump. Of course the parts store doesn't need to know all of this. I learned to let the spring stick out a little and align the tit with the end of the spring first. Learned something anyway.
#110
#114
#115
Below 0F it's important. Below 20F it's helpful but not necessary. When we go out to our cabin in the winter (rustic, no electricity), and have to start it below 20F, I used to bring out a generator. Now I just let the glow plugs run 30-40 seconds after the WTS light goes off and crank it. Cranks a little longer, some white smoke, but she always fires up. 'Course, we also run 5w30 and winter (white bottle) Power Service. For you, prob not worth the hassle of dragging out the extension cord.
#116
I was kind of thinking if it got below the teens or if it was going to be below freezing for a few days, which rarly happens either. We might have about 3 days in a row that stays below freezing once or twice a winter. Might be overkill to plug it up then. At least I would have a warm heater.
#117
^^^^ If you leave the HVAC set to windshield defrost when you part the truck, then plug it in, it clears the inside nice & quick. Oh remember, you only need it for 2-3 hours before you start it up, and it draws 1000 W (15 cents / hour, give or take), so put it on a timer if you expect to use it.
#119
#120