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I know it is hard to see but I am wondering if this is the standard place for a FICM ground, on the heat shield. IMO the intake stud would be better but the eye seems to be too small and I don't have a nut for the stud with the correct thread.
It is supposed be be on an intake stud, but it’s not the FICM ground, it’s the harness shielding ground. The real FICM ground is on the fender by the hood strut mount.
So the shielding ground needs to be on something connected to the engine block, the true ground of all things. The heat shield is somewhat OK, but an intake bolt/stud would be best
So after bleeding the brakes again on the truck i discovered there was still some trapped air in the system. Now they feel much better than they did before.
Bu then while i was cleaning up i noticed that somehow my boost gauge line got all twisted up. Not sure how that happened but went to lowes and just got a straight union to correct the issue.
No more kink in the line. Kinda surprised since its was rated to more than the engines supposed to get to heat wise. But noticed my regulator emergency returns doing something similar so now i gotta work on that.
It is supposed be be on an intake stud, but it’s not the FICM ground, it’s the harness shielding ground. The real FICM ground is on the fender by the hood strut mount.
So the shielding ground needs to be on something connected to the engine block, the true ground of all things. The heat shield is somewhat OK, but an intake bolt/stud would be best
Thank you! I will move the connection once I figure out what nut goes on the intake stud.
It the standard 6-1.0mm flange nut that Ford uses everywhere. You could borrow one from the MAP bracket over on the heater box for short term. I just bought a bag of 100 for $5.00. What is available from other then Ford may be up a mm in the hex size.
Jack I know you’re up to the high water line in what all you have going on, BUT when you get time could you post part # and where you got those nuts. I am constantly “misplacing “ them.
I keep stock for my activities and load up even more when I’m doing projects like this motor. What I don’t use now, I will someday. Most of the nuts and bolts are McMaster as the quality is good and I have choice. HD bins and the like tend to have poor quality stock.
Field of dreams, past, present and future.
Shaky pano image. Ford specific items get their own container new and previously used. The Ford body bolts with the large washers come a different vendor and are always good to have. I’ll edit in that source later, I’m given it before. Those heads are the exact as Ford specs. Box right is mostly McMaster or odd leftovers.
An example of hex differences, 6mm stock. In a case like this, HPOP cover or oil pan, I’ll switch over to all of the new size so rework won’t drive some crazy. Stock 8mm, replacement 10mm. Flange diameter is still close to the same.
You have a choice to get JIC standards, which sometimes are the same hex andflange as Ford.
If you go to product detail of the part your interested in .....
It will show the design details and the hex diameter if the product table gets confusing.
Edit in.
If you want exact spec and the body flange bolts, Clips and Fasteners is where I go. There’s a lot to search, but can get more expensive depending on the subject.
THANK YOU JACK!!!! Now I’m not going to mention the OCD because it obvious that you don’t have it . I’m on the other end of the spectrum. I could have 2000 of these nuts laying around and couldn’t find one when I needed it. Thanks again.
I keep stock for my activities and load up even more when I’m doing projects like this motor. What I don’t use now, I will someday. Most of the nuts and bolts are McMaster as the quality is good and I have choice. HD bins and the like tend to have poor quality stock.
Field of dreams, past, present and future.
Shaky pano image. Ford specific items get their own container new and previously used. The Ford body bolts with the large washers come a different vendor and are always good to have. I’ll edit in that source later, I’m given it before. Those heads are the exact as Ford specs. Box right is mostly McMaster or odd leftovers.
An example of hex differences, 6mm stock. In a case like this, HPOP cover or oil pan, I’ll switch over to all of the new size so rework won’t drive some crazy. Stock 8mm, replacement 10mm. Flange diameter is still close to the same.
You have a choice to get JIC standards, which sometimes are the same hex andflange as Ford.
If you go to product detail of the part your interested in .....
It will show the design details and the hex diameter if the product table gets confusing.
Edit in.
If you want exact spec and the body flange bolts, Clips and Fasteners is where I go. There’s a lot to search, but can get more expensive depending on the subject.
By nature I'm not really OCD. My office right now would be a fine example.
However.......It took a few decades, more then a few, to realize I spend too much time looking for things like a nut or bolt, and no amount of CoQ10 is helping in this matter. So I put things in a place, labeled, and sometimes that still doesn't help.
This is a packed two car garage for all my activities, auto, motorcycle, farm, cabinetmaking, audio, remodeling, whatever. So things are everywhere and all space is utilized. Not the hoarder my mother was, but I've got a lot of toys. And I need to find things.
My last activity for the night is to put all tools back in their place, parts too, vacuum and clean up for the next day. Otherwise things get out of control.
11-18-2017, 09:04 PM
