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I have a 1995 F150, 6 cyl., five speed. All of a sudden I seem to have too much play in my clutch, and I can't shift gears unless the motor isn't running.
Ok, I've had the same problems at times. First time was about 4 years ago. Clutch goes to the floor, etc can't shift unless truck is off or start it in first and speed shift to get it to the shop. Ford shop said the clutch was bone dry but they couldn't find a leak, np just refill and was fine for 3 years. Earlier this year same problem. Well I thought screw spending the money to get the shop to say its out of fluid. This time the problem was a nasty one. Bad slave cylinder (Oh God I don't know why Ford used this setup). Well thats my story. Check your tranny fluid if you haven't changed it in a while and check your clutch fluid. The clutch master cylinder is easy to find its under the driver side and if you follow the clutch lines leading out from under the steering column you can find it. Look for leaks and such. The slave cylinder is up inside the bell housing so unless you can drop your tranny in your front yard you have to take it to a shop. It sounds like you don't have any tranny problems in and of itself just clutch woes.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Nov-02 AT 05:05 PM (EST)]Thanks for the response. I'll take it to a local shop Monday and see if they can find it. I added fluid for the clitch, and it seemed to help a bit. I did manage to get it to shift a couple of times before it failed again. Afterwards, I noticed that the fluid level had dropped again. I couldn't see a leak. I added more fluid, but it didn't make a difference.
Been there done that the slave cylinder is toast. They gotta (or you) have to pull the trans to replace it. If the trans is out get or (do) the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Mine went @ 60,000. It cost between 600-700 to get done.
It's a repair you CAN do yourself if you have some tools & floor jack, but it's not like changing the oil. If you're gonna pay someone else to do it, make sure you get a warranty that's worth it. If you don't get a good warranty, you might as well do it yourself - the money you save will pay for ALL the tools you MIGHT need, PLUS some brain lubricant (in a 12oz can).
If you're interested in an upgrade use the clutch/pressure plate out of a heavier truck. It's 11" versus 10".
Just did this a coupla months back to my 1992 f-150 4.9. The only problem is you'll need different pressure plate bolts. The old ones are 5/16-18 and the new ones will be 3/8-16. You can pick them up at any parts store. The holes are already in the flywheel. Only cost about 10.00 dollars more for heavier clutch set.
Thanks! That is an interesting thought about saving enough to buy the tools. I used to be fairly godd at mechanical work, but I'm getting a little age on me now, so I'll be forced to rely on someone else.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Nov-02 AT 12:47 PM (EST)]Thanks to everyone who tried to help me. I love this web site!!!!! The truck in in the shop now. I'll report the repair detail when I get it back to let ya'll know what was found--and fixed.
Good move. I have done many clutches on my old truck 78 f150 6 with a three on the tree (I was a lot younger and dumber then). I have had one done on my 94 f150. Since time is money and I don't have a tranny jack or a lift The 678 I paid to get it done ended up costing me less.
Got the whole thing done including a badly needed oil pan gasket. Now I have another problem. I am getting a feeling about 40 mph that something is out of balance. I took the truck back today and left it with the garage owner. We both were puzzled by the vibrations. He is going to put it on the rack, and see if the vibration is coming from the clutch, transmission, drive shaft, tires ot what. It's a puzzle
Did they seperate the yoke and drive shaft? If your driveshaft has the slip yoke on it and not in the t case they have to be put back together in the same place or the u joints will be outa fase. It will vibrate. I didn't know this untill we did my budies 79 it vibrated real bad after, then a guy he works with but the shaft and yoke across two steel blocks by resting the ujoint caps on them. The way it was it rocked back and forth like a mother, rotated the yoke 90degrees, perfect, no rocking.:-staun
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