We have a 94 F-250 will the engine start up with the gauge cluster out?
will this cause the battery not to charge with a incomplete charging loop?
How inter changeable are these gauge clusters? can we take one out of our 92 F-150 and put it in our 94 F-250? they have different engines and transmissions?
Thank you for you advice.

 

YES it will.
Yes, the battery will not charge.
You need one from an 1994 or 1995 F-series.
No, the battery will not charge.
The cluster does not care what engines and transmission you have.

 

Bill,
That is great, we took a cluster out of a 94 and put in the 93 just to start the engine. Is that part of my problem?
The automatic transmission was taken out and a bellhousing was installed with the starter the plug for the transmission was cut we were given information to by past the safety neutral switch, however; we are not getting fuel, we need more information which wires send the signal from the transmission that it in park or neutral controlling the fuel part of the safety neutral switch. We put this question out and we are seeking support. Does anyone know of a Technical support line from Ford? We have spent two days trying figure out how to get an answer. The engine will start on starting fluid. Any and all tips/ advice is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,

 

The cluster has nothing to do with getting fuel to the engine.
The safety neutral switch nothing to do with getting fuel to the engine.

 

Bill;
It was brought to our attention because the plug for the transmission was cut that the fuel would be shut off as well with the computer not knowing there is no transmission or thinking it was in gear not Park or neutral. We did check all the fuses and the adnursurer switch on the passengers side panel. Any ideas what we can try next? We are trying fight our way through this.

Thank you again for you advice.
Barry

 

When the computer loses the TP sensor on the transmission it will tell the oil pressure to go max and then you will have to shift manual with no OD.
The only time a good computer will shut off the fuel is if it does not see a PIP and then it will shut off the fuel in one second. But it will still run the fuel pump for one second when the key is turned from off to on.

You need to ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key to see if the selected fuel pump runs. If it does then remove the ground from pin #6 and short pin #2 to pin #6 and turn on the key and see if it still runs. If it does not run now and it ran with pin #6 grounded then you have a bad ground at the battery more than likely.

If the pumps did run with pin #6 grounded of the test self-plug with the key on and will not run the fuel pumps for one second when the key is turned on and you have power on pin #1, 37 & 57 of the computer plug and a good ground on pin #40 & 60 then the computer is more than likely bad.

If the pumps did not runs both ways then check for power with a test light at the red wire on any injector with the key on. If you do not have power at the injector see if the power relay clicks when the key is turned on.

If the fuel pumps did not run with pin#6 grounded and the key on check if the fuel pump relay clicks when #6 is grounded. If it clicks and the pumps do not run try resetting the fuel shut-off switch in the passengers kick panel.

Also check the fuses for the fuel pumps and the power relay in the engine fuse/relay box under the hood.

 

And THIS ^^^^^^^ Ladies and Gentlemen... Is WHY Electronic Fuel Injection SUCKS!!!!!

 

I have edited post #6 above.

 

Bill,
Thank you for all of the information!!, we did check all the fuses inside the cab and under the hood they were good, also the fuel shut switch was inspected and the center fuse was pushed down, we do have the pumps running as the key is turned on and we have the relays kicking on that was also check with the test light & has power. Our next step we disconnected the fuel body position sensor we were told engine would start with this disconnected. Still nothing we then disconnected a plug going to the fuel injectors placed a paper clip inside the plug connected the end of the test light to the paper clip and ground the tip of the test light turn the key and nothing put the paper clip in the other side of the plug nothing. We drove this truck in our shop pulled out the Transmission which was very difficult and the plug going to the transmission was cut.
We need to do more home work because not quite sure what PIP means or where pin #6 # 2 are located. We did look in our Haynes book, maybe just looking in the wrong place? This is a process and we are getting more education with all your help. Thank you again!!
Barry

 

I have no idea what a "fuel body position sensor" is.

If you do not have power on the red wire at the injector then the fuel pump relay will not come on when you turn on the key and you said it did.

PIP: Profile Ignition Pickup. A "hall effect" vane switch that furnishes crankshaft position data to the EEC-IV processor.
The PIP sensor is located on the stator inside the distributor and generates a PIP train to the computer and the Ignition Control Module (ICM).





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Bill,
Your the BEST!
Thank you very much will let you know how we do.
Barry

 

Bill,
Ran the test could hear the fuel pump running still would not start, unplugged the test
hear a small clicking noise checked all the fuses are good check another truck which only had two relays as this truck has 4. What were we looking for during this test? power to the fuel pump? tried switch fuel switch during the starting with no luck Also what is the self test out with # 4 and #2 ? Had the test light hooked up to the plug for the fuel injection w/ paper clip and no signs of the light pulsating.

Thank you,
Barry

 

We were checking to make sure the fuel system wiring and pumps were OK.
This also told us the Power relay was OK and the fuses to the Power relay and Fuel pump relay were OK.

Starting to sound like a bad computer.

Try pulling codes, I bet it will not flash the MIL either.
Does the MIL come on when you first turn on the key?

 

We are only getting the ABS lights to come on, no check engine light or any others just the two red light for the seat belts. The MIL is the the Malfunction indication Light?
As you can tell this is not my area of expertise, how do we go about trying to pull the Codes ? Will we need an OBD tool/ scanner ? We are also missing the switch next to the gauge cluster for the automatic 4 wheel drive.
Thank you again for all you help.

 

To check the codes you ground the STI wire and turn on the key. Then you count the flashes of the MIL (CEL).

For more information go to this link below:
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

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