W.T.F. Desperately Need Help
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 58
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Ok, MagKarl. Followed all the suggestions in the first group. Got home late from work today and put the solenoid on. Got fire at pins 1 and 5 at the UVC harness. Also had the engine cranked, fire in pin #3 I believe. Unplugged the connections to the injectors, all the injectors have flashing hot pole.
Changed the CPS, tach raises a little when the engine is cranked.
Changed the batteries and cranked. Nothing. Will purge the air from the HPOP tomorrow. Still truck did not start. Tempted to use starter fluid, didn't.
Truck has fuel pressure.
Talk to me guys!!! Ready to offer it to the junk dealer.
Changed the CPS, tach raises a little when the engine is cranked.
Changed the batteries and cranked. Nothing. Will purge the air from the HPOP tomorrow. Still truck did not start. Tempted to use starter fluid, didn't.
Truck has fuel pressure.
Talk to me guys!!! Ready to offer it to the junk dealer.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 58
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Will do that today. I got off late last night and between going to get parts, the rain and darkness, I wasn't able to purge the air. MagKarl, it is a 16mm wrench to open the purge pipes. Will let you guys know.
Oh, and my comment about the "junk dealer," I only say that because it is not my truck.
Will let you guys know later what happens.
Oh, and my comment about the "junk dealer," I only say that because it is not my truck.
Will let you guys know later what happens.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Olympia, WA
There are a couple big hex head plugs on each head, if I remember right they are about 16mm or 5/8" hex size. They point upward and inward toward the centerline of the motor if that makes sense. Look just above the intake plenums for a plug on each head. Those are the ones to vent to let the air out out of the oil rails in the heads.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I'm a little surprised nobody has asked this so far, so I'll throw it out there. Does your WTS light come on? Have you checked fuse #22 under the hood? If you haven't already (or your brother), unplug your fuel bowl heater. It won't account for why it would have died while in operation, but could account for it's lack of operation now. That, and the air in your oil lines from your HPOP switch.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 58
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Hello everyone. Got off early today and purged the air as MagKarl suggested. Put hot batteries in the bed. Fuse 22 is ok. I will check again to be sure. Also, the WTS not the "W.T.F." light works. (Please disregard my humor if it offends, but I need a laugh of two now. I'm at a loss of words and ideas).
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Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
I'd say the next step would be to verify that your getting sufficient high pressure oil pressure.. Most of us use a scanner to check things like this, but you can also build a mechanical gauge to do this and watch it while cranking. The injectors need around 600psi of oil pressure in order for the engine to start.
The gauge will have about 3 feet of hose. On one end of the hose you will have a 4000psi liquid filled gauge and the other end the hose will connect into one of the ports in the oil rail that you have been loosening to let air out of the system. Find a hydraulic shop and have them set you up with this stuff.
What you'll need:
Just run the line and gauge away from moving parts and up towards the cowl. You can lay it up under one of the windshield wipers so you can look at it while you crank the engine. You can also do this while driving for those of you looking to check pressure while driving and don't have a scanner.
The gauge will have about 3 feet of hose. On one end of the hose you will have a 4000psi liquid filled gauge and the other end the hose will connect into one of the ports in the oil rail that you have been loosening to let air out of the system. Find a hydraulic shop and have them set you up with this stuff.
What you'll need:
- 0-4000psi liquid filled gauge
- About 3' of hose rated for (minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
- You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the head to the hose. This single fitting will be a 45 or 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called # 5 o-ring) on one end of the 45, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 45.
Just run the line and gauge away from moving parts and up towards the cowl. You can lay it up under one of the windshield wipers so you can look at it while you crank the engine. You can also do this while driving for those of you looking to check pressure while driving and don't have a scanner.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
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Strokin..., had one of your units made at hydralic supply here. Kind of expensive but was worth every penny. Showed me that that the HPOP failed. No or very little pressure. Had another one lying around and after purging the air, kicked over. Engine runs like a new one. Sad to say though, in my has must have not put silicone all around because I am leaking oil in the valley. Rail bolts all tight and hydralic lines seem tight and the only thing i can think of was that the oil is bypassing the gasket. Will take about two hours to replace tomorrow. Important thing is that the truck is running, better than it was I should say. One other question. Is there a place I can take my HPOP to have it reman for a spare?
Finally, let me thank all the FTE family of experts. You all are the best. I am thankful for the creators of this and other forums like this. Hope this thread saves someone else a lot of time.
Finally, let me thank all the FTE family of experts. You all are the best. I am thankful for the creators of this and other forums like this. Hope this thread saves someone else a lot of time.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
Strokin..., had one of your units made at hydralic supply here. Kind of expensive but was worth every penny. Showed me that that the HPOP failed. No or very little pressure. Had another one lying around and after purging the air, kicked over. Engine runs like a new one. Sad to say though, in my has must have not put silicone all around because I am leaking oil in the valley. Rail bolts all tight and hydralic lines seem tight and the only thing i can think of was that the oil is bypassing the gasket. Will take about two hours to replace tomorrow. Important thing is that the truck is running, better than it was I should say. One other question. Is there a place I can take my HPOP to have it reman for a spare?
Finally, let me thank all the FTE family of experts. You all are the best. I am thankful for the creators of this and other forums like this. Hope this thread saves someone else a lot of time.
Finally, let me thank all the FTE family of experts. You all are the best. I am thankful for the creators of this and other forums like this. Hope this thread saves someone else a lot of time.
Oh and on the HPOP reman, I'd call Joey at Terminator Engineering and talk to him about it.
