A guy is wanting to trade me a 1986 F250 2wd 6.9 international c6 trans. Not sure on milage. What's it worth and what should I look for? He's wanting to trade on a 1980 Long 610 tractor. I'm looking at it to flip for another tractor. Thanks in advance.

 

Not sure what it's worth, but it looks badass. Does it have a liftgate?

 

Looks nice, but I'd start by asking what work has been done to it? Does he have service records, receipts for what parts have been replaced? How does it drive? How's the frame any cracks or rot? Interior condition is a biggie for me as well. Do all the gauges work? Trim panels in good condition? Seat in good condition? Interior parts can really add up, ask me how I know. All this information has a huge factor in what the truck is worth.

 

It's not 4wd. And does it start ok? You need to see it start from sitting overnight. I wonder if he would let you take it home and you could let it sit in your driveway overnight, and see how it started the next morning.

 

These are the only pictures I have. I'll see if I can get more info and get back. I was told these international diesels are dogs and the truck won't bring much because of it. Also I was told these trucks had some front end problems. Something about bushings wearing strange. Can you guys elaborate on that?

 

ALL NA diesels are dogs!
I had a 86 Chevy Blazer with a NA 6.2 that was a dog but got great MPG!
At 100K I installed a Gail Banks turbo kit and it was like driving a BB gas motor for power but still got great MPG. It also had a 700R4 auto with OD.


If you want to wake it up look into GB turbo or think it was ATS or AST for a turbo kit.


The TTB front end that Ford used has a lot more moving parts & pivot points than a straight axle the others used. All this movement is why they wear out.


Just 1 of the things you have to deal with if you want the control of the TTB front end.
Just my take on it.
Dave ----

 

That truck will have the twin-I-beam suspension that all Fords have had since the 60's up through to the late 90's. Even the 4x4 trucks had it starting in 1980, called the ttb or twin-traction-beam suspension.

The frontend is fine, except it's sensitive to worn parts. When it starts to wear, it will quickly ruin the tires. You have to keep up with them, replacing/rebuilding parts that need it and keep it aligned.

The 6.9 diesel is a old school type of diesel. It has no turbo, it's power is about equal to a 351w. But it's very heavily built and is known to last 300,000 miles before a rebuild is necessary. It's a very good engine if you are not in a hurry. The newer diesel guys don't like them because they have no computer control, and they can't put chips on it and get lots of power and smoke. It's all mechanical injection, no electronics on it at all.

If you want a good power boost, they make turbo kits for them, it makes them feel like there are two engines under the hood if a turbo is added.

 

Just advance the injection pump if you want smoke.
I don't know if it will add any power with out a turbo and you do have to advance the pump then.


Thing is more fuel, pump advanced more than the kit wants, with a turbo also makes the EGT go up higher. Too much fuel and the EGT gets too high for the turbo and can cause issues.
Dave ----

 

A lot of us here will wail on the children who come here asking how to make lots of black smoke.

 

Here's the list of new parts I got. Radiator, alternator, glow plus, differential seal, front end bushings, fuel filter, belts, battery and voltage regulator. This is over the last year and a half. May just be me but that seems like a pretty long list for a year and a half.

 

You do not advance the pump. There is a fueling screw under a window on the pump that you turn with a allen wrench to add more fuel.

Adding fuel will make the Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) go up. Adding a turbo will bring the EGT down, the more air helps cool the EGT. If you want more power, you add the turbo AND turn up the fuel, but of course you can add too much fuel even with the turbo, and then your EGT's go back up.

 

on the GM 6.2 you advanced the pump from what I remember 20+ years ago but the rest is what I was trying to say.
Dave - - - -

 

2WD so worth more in parts since it appears rust free. Since these aren't set up for leaf springs they're more of a pain to convert. If there's really no rust I figure...

Bed: $600
Bed rails $100
Cab:$400
Frame: $100
Fenders $100/ea
Hood $75
Rear axle: $100
Engine: $500
Trans: $75
Wheels+tires:$500
Figure another $500 in misc parts, maybe twice that depending how long you want to hold the small parts

So around $3500 in parts or $500-$1000 as a running driving truck.

 

around here that truck would be on craigslist for no less than $2800cdn (that's probably around $2000us), much more if the paint will buff up and the interior is decent.

 

Well he's brining the truck tomorrow and taking the tractor. I think it's a good trade. There's something not quite right in the tractor and we can't figure it out plus it's not a popular model. I needed a tractor to cut hay with and it was a quick, cheap solution that worked for a while but now it's time for it to go. I'm sure I'll be back around asking questions soon. Thanks again to everybody