I pull a 35' Jayco 314BDS with my X. Have pro-pride 3p hitch, V-codes up front and RAS in the rear. It's a good setup, but I've had problems with my pro-pride since I got it. I keep bending the hooks on the jack tubes. It's very un-nerving when you have the weight distribution bars loaded and they let go. It's a huge thump. Three times this has happened requiring me to tow without weight distribution. It still doesn't sway but the X's nose it looking at the stars, making turning and the like a very precise procedure.
Pro-pride has been great about replacing the jack tubes, but we still haven't figured out what the problem is. The link bars are squared off on the end that connects to the distribution bars and seems to be catching on them, so I rounded off the corners and hoping my next tow will go well. I'm confident the hitch is installed correctly as I've gone over the measurements multiple times.
Anyone else having issues with the 3P hitch?

 

Sunline, thanks for the info. I think my tow mirrors are stock, and I'll be climbing under the truck to ensure I have a RSB as soon I get the truck back.

We are planning camping trips this summer with and without taking our 3 ATV's in the Toyhauler so I assume I am going to need to find the optimum setup for both these scenerios.
With the rear garage empty (1250lb less) the tongue weight felt "heavy" and not as stable when I pulled it with the Tundra. With the rear garage full it felt much more stable towing, also with the Tundra.

I'll take my time and take notes on my first trip and come back for advice!
thanks, Brian

 

I just took out our 2009 gulfstream conquest 26 foot tt for the first time this last weekend to set up the weight distrigution hitch. We went from towing with a 2004 toyota sequoia to a 2005 excursion wuth the 6.0. Don't get me wrong-the toyota was a great vehicle but it is a night and day difference. I towed this camper with no brake controller hooked up(still need to get the prodigy hooked up) 4 miles to a big parking lot to level things. I didn't hardly feel the camper on take-off and even with no brake controller I was amazed at how well the whole thing stopped. The most amazing part for me was that I had to actually let off the throttle to maintain 40 mph on the same hill that I had to floor the toyota to keep that speed!!!!!

We are looking forward to our opening trip here in 3 weeks to villanueva here in New Mexico (Villanueva) to test everything before our big trip to Yellowstone in May.

We are working on an outdoor cooking setup that will accomodate cooking for my wife and I and our 4 kids. Dragging out the cooking disc, 3 coleman stoves and all of the stands gets to be a nightmare especially when you have to put it away. Any ideas?

 

No problem Brian. You're right about the optimum in both scenarios. In your case, I'd actually recommend something other than a Dual Cam, because it does have to be set to a certain trailer. That's my only complaint with it, because I have to change it for my trailer if I tow it with the F-450 vs. the Excursion. But ideally you kinda do need to readjust the cam position on a toy hauler for towing it with toys in the back vs. not, or else the trailer will bounce in and out of the mis-aligned cams and will wiggle side to side a little.

I want to put this link in here for others who may be interested too. John is a member here too (Ford_Camping) and personally measured all of these trailer & fifth wheel tongues/pins at a Sunline rally. Mine was measured at 1250#, but I was there early and he measured mine with some stuff outside. He reweighed it at another rally the following year and I made a point to leave it fully packed like it were being towed, which I got the 1175# from.

Sunline Camper Actual Loaded Tongue/Pin Weights - Sunline Coach Owner's Club

Jon

 

hadn't seen this thread when I asked my 20 questions recently, but I can tell u between the roadmaster active suspension and the propride 3P hitch the 34 footer stayed right behind me !!!

Now to get the engine up to the task - it's tired fromt he abuse I put it under and needs some work at 144k miles

 

Yesterday was a good day! I sold my previous camping trailer, a 1999 Coleman Bayside to a good family for what I wanted and then checked email and our new Artic Fox 25Y was just delivered to our RV dealer! Too bad it is 7 hours away from us and my wife will be working every weekend between now and April 15th.... So it looks like we won't pick the new trailer up until after tax day. It is OK as I still have projects to complete at home in prep. I have an 8x12 shed to relocate, I need to pour a new slab for the shed to sit on. I need to put in an RV circut to plug the trailer in and pour some more cement around the existing slab from the shed as it is the new home for the trailer.

I decided to go with the Pro Pride P3 and the Prodegy P3 for this trailer.
Happy camping ahead!

 

Good deal LC !

Good Lord don't these things make us WORK and spend money even before we get them ?


And I bit the bullet and bought a new truck - now the wife is REALLY mad at me for not getting that 5th wheel she liked

 

I finally was able to pair up the toyhauler that I bought in December and the Excursion that I bought in January to replace my Tundra Double Cab that struggled to pull it.

I had the camper leveled with ATV's loaded, but I didnt think to snap a picture. This picture was taken after 3 ATV's were removed.

I was very happy with the lack of squat in the back of the Excursion (1.25") with the WD bars unhooked. Overall, the ride still needs some improvement.
Unhooked I have 1.25" of front suspension travel and 2.25" in the rear (from leaf to bump stop). Is this considered sagging compared to stock?

I am currently debating between V/B codes or just upgrading shocks to Rancho 9000's first. I really dont want to lift my truck as I am happy with the current ride height.

We are all excited to get this camping season started for us in 2 weeks. I just ordered a Coleman Roadtrip grill, propane adaptor, and rolling carrying case to add to long list of supplies we have been picking up lately.

I need to find a good fuel can storage solution next as my 9ft garage is cramped with two 90cc atvs and mine.

 

Nice picture! The 20's seem to set off nice there with the TT.

I always measure wheelwell heights through the center of the hub to the bottom edge of the cladding, so I can't help you with bump stop measurements. It's not so much about the distance of travel as it is how much compression or lift you've had from the stock measurements.

 

You may already have V/B code springs. This is about the amount of clearance that my V/B springs have. Stock Excursion springs give only about 0.75" front clearance. Perhaps you don't know what the previous owner did to this truck(?).

Just thinking hmmm...

 

I didnt think my truck was high enough to have V/B codes already. I have looked underneath and as far as I can tell it has stock shackles, no-RAS, no Add-a-leafs, it appears completely OEM, other than reflex shocks and dual steering stabilizer.

Here is a profile shot, I will get the measurements from hub center to the bottom center of the wheelwell mouldings tonight and post them up. Is there a SN on the leaf spring I should be able to find?

I better count the leaves as well to find out what I have.

I guess this is all good news as I have enough travel, I just have some play in the steering that I am going to try to address by tightening the steering box tonight and the kids complain about the rough and bouncy ride in the third row seat.

thanks for the feedback!

 

Before I replaced my front "D" (stock) springs with "V", I only about 3/4" clearance. Add to that fact that you cannot tell what springs you have by looking at them, it makes me wonder if someone has already done this work. I would say--if you don't have a problem with hitting the bump stops and the truck does not wander--leave the front springs alone.

RAS added to the rear springs will add about 1" in additional ride height and actually may reduce the "choppy" ride somewhat--it depends on how it is perceived by the kids. For me, leaf springs have a natural "stiction" when dry and the RAS seems to make them more "active" under very small inputs. I found the same sort of benefit when I put on airbags on my 2003.

The 20" wheels/tires give about 1" in overall ride height lift due to larger diameter. This larger diameter will reduce your engine speed 8% when towing. Have you pulled much yet? I really like the looks of the 20" wheels, but I'm leery of "falling off" the power curve at about 65 - 70 mph. My stock tires give me just about 2000 RPM at about 70 mph. To get the 20" wheels/tires, I've often thought a re-gearing would be necessary (e.g. to 4.10).

 

Thanks, I took some measurements as soon as I got home and came up with 23.25" front, 24.25" rear.

 

After a quick look at the front bumpstops and the metal pad below them I dont have any bottoming out going on as there are no marks on the pad.
I had sloppy steering, vibration, and bumpy ride going on last week. after taking the truck in and having the tires flipped on the rims and rebalanced the vibration is gone. I currently have 65psi rear and 55psi front based on some posts I've read here on FTE.

The RAS just makes no sense to me....how adding ride height and load carrying capacity can improve a ride just seems odd. Though I have heard it from others too.

I have not pulled much with this setup yet, but we have a 875 mile trip in a few weeks that I am getting ready for and I will be tracking mileage at the pump. According to the trip computer I was seeing 11.5-12mpg while pulling at 65mph(according to two GPS's as my speedometer is off by approx 3-4mph. Daily driving I am getting just under 19mpg.
I've pulled the camper up a few Illinois hills (we dont have much!) and the truck did fine with no need to downshift, in either std or tow/haul mode.

I think I will be ordering bilsteins or Rancho 9000's before our trip too see what those do. I've read that these reflex shocks are relabled Rancho 5000's and though they appear fine with no leaking, I'm not impressed as I feel every crack in the road with the current setup.

*update - i spent some time under the truck and posting in the steering wander thread and I determined that I do have front V codes, and I think I have unmodded B codes in the rear. I ordered F250/350 30mm rear swaybar last night, I will be ordering Bilsteins from CT Performance today, and replacing my front stabilizer shocks and seeing what that gets me. Thanks for steering me in the right direction! I'm glad I did more research before ordering springs from Tousley Ford.