1992 Ford F150 4.9L 3g Upgrade
#16
08-09-2012, 07:13 AM
Well, the alternator fits fine without any modifications aside from a smaller bolt for the top mount. I picked up the 130A for a 1995-96 F-Series / 1992-1996 E-Series. The only gripe I have is that the pivot bolt for the alternator is long (unnecessarily long) and it requires I either grind it down in place, take the bracket off, or remove the radiator to get it out. No problem at all if you replace it with a 90A with the same mounting locations. Good thing I'm replacing the radiator.
Still much easier to remove and replace this alternator than it is to replace one in a Honda Civic!
Charge cable/fuse and harness should arrive today so it looks like the only issue with the 3G case size is if you're looking to pick one out of a donor.
Will tell tales of my successes with the alternator and wiring this weekend and will post a few pics.
Thanks again to everyone for all of their help!
Still much easier to remove and replace this alternator than it is to replace one in a Honda Civic!
Charge cable/fuse and harness should arrive today so it looks like the only issue with the 3G case size is if you're looking to pick one out of a donor.
Will tell tales of my successes with the alternator and wiring this weekend and will post a few pics.
Thanks again to everyone for all of their help!
#17
08-11-2012, 07:29 PM
Update:
Well, it's dark out now and I just finished, so no pics. No harm there. Engine compartment still has fire extinguisher residue in hard to get spots.
Alternator is in and functioning properly. Very easy wire job, especially with the new harness but you could do this no problem with the old regulator harness. I just removed all traces of old wiring besides the green/red wire.
Mounted the fuse on my fender where the loud and rattly bottle jack would go (reused the wingnut and all). Very simple fix. At first, at least for me, it seemed a little more complicated but I feel that was more or less me worried that it would catch on fire again and/or something would go wrong... Potential swappers: don't think like that... this is a piece of cake.
For those of you who have a 1992 F150 with a 300ci and NO A/C:
If you get the 130A 8.25" alternator or anything else besides a direct bolt up you can either reuse the pulley or if you would like to leave the larger pulley, just get the belt for the 300ci with A/C. It is 1.1" longer and will fit perfectly. I thought that I had enough slack in the belt but that wasn't the case, I was short about 3/8". The belt for the model with A/C will give your tensioner plenty of room to work and will grip nicely. Not sure about those with A/C.
All in all, truck is quieter, lights (all the lights, especially the dash) are brighter and my voltmeter doesn't move at all when I turn my cap and rear facing work lights on.
Well, it's dark out now and I just finished, so no pics. No harm there. Engine compartment still has fire extinguisher residue in hard to get spots.
Alternator is in and functioning properly. Very easy wire job, especially with the new harness but you could do this no problem with the old regulator harness. I just removed all traces of old wiring besides the green/red wire.
Mounted the fuse on my fender where the loud and rattly bottle jack would go (reused the wingnut and all). Very simple fix. At first, at least for me, it seemed a little more complicated but I feel that was more or less me worried that it would catch on fire again and/or something would go wrong... Potential swappers: don't think like that... this is a piece of cake.
For those of you who have a 1992 F150 with a 300ci and NO A/C:
If you get the 130A 8.25" alternator or anything else besides a direct bolt up you can either reuse the pulley or if you would like to leave the larger pulley, just get the belt for the 300ci with A/C. It is 1.1" longer and will fit perfectly. I thought that I had enough slack in the belt but that wasn't the case, I was short about 3/8". The belt for the model with A/C will give your tensioner plenty of room to work and will grip nicely. Not sure about those with A/C.
All in all, truck is quieter, lights (all the lights, especially the dash) are brighter and my voltmeter doesn't move at all when I turn my cap and rear facing work lights on.
#19
01-01-2013, 10:12 AM
Hi Stephan,
Sorry to hear about your truck's illness. The good news is it's an easy cure.
I purchased a 130A alternator for a 1995 4.9 F150. This came with the mounting points at 12 and 6 o'clock. If you have a 1992 or 1993 (not sure about the '94), your alternator will have different (3 and 6 o'clock) mount points but the bracket will accept the new alternator.
I then purchased the charging cable kit from RJM injection and the alternator harness from Quickstart alternators. Those part numbers can be found on the previous page of this thread. You don't have to purchase those from the web. Any hardware store with an electrical department or an automotive place with a decent electrical selection will have the stuff you need to make your own charging cable but to be sure I'd go the hardware store route. You will need about 5 feet of heavy gauge wire and the terminals. You end up with some scrap wire but having too much is better than having too little. The only thing you'd have to find on your own is the silicone rubber protector for the alternator post which comes with the kit. You can buy the fuse from the kit at just about any auto parts store. I wanted a new harness rather than a junkyard harness but you can find the alternator harness at a junkyard if you feel like searching. I had an alternate mode of transportation so I didn't lose any time out of work and could bear with the wait time for the shipping.
If you buy an alternator for a 1995, you will have to drill out the top mounting location on the alternator and either use a nut and bolt or tap it out and use a bolt as the thread is smaller than the bolt you remove from your current alternator. Go easy when drilling. You don't want to crack that case. The pivot bolt at the bottom can be reused. One thing about the pivot bolt: if you have an original factory radiator like I did the pivot bolt may not come out all the way. That's ok, because you only need to loosen it to get it out. Mine, however, wouldn't come loose until the bolt was out so I had to cut 1/2" off of the pivot bolt with a grinder while it was tight in the bracket. Mine had an excess of about 3/4" maybe 7/8" of bolt so this won't affect your bolt's functionality. If you have a thinner replacement radiator like I do now, you won't run into this problem. I suppose that if you loosen the bolt and find that the old alternator is stuck in there, you could probably use a sturdy piece of wood like hickory or oak as a lever and muscle it out or use a rubber mallet and bash it out. I had already cracked my radiator with the fire extinguisher when I was putting out my flaming alternator so I decided to go easy.
Installation was a breeze. Just wire up the harness like the directions say and make sure you save enough of the green/black wire from the original harness to butt the new harness to. I clipped it at the old harness and then cut it to proper length after I measured everything. Remove the old orange and black charging wires and replace those with the new charging cable/fuse.
You will probably need a new serpentine belt as well. My truck does not have AC but I compared lengths of belts with a 1992 E150 with a 4.9 with AC and it proved to be the proper length. You will have to figure that part out on your own but I personally wouldn't buy the belt until you try to refit your old belt. Yours may fit, it may not.
Good luck!
Sorry to hear about your truck's illness. The good news is it's an easy cure.
I purchased a 130A alternator for a 1995 4.9 F150. This came with the mounting points at 12 and 6 o'clock. If you have a 1992 or 1993 (not sure about the '94), your alternator will have different (3 and 6 o'clock) mount points but the bracket will accept the new alternator.
I then purchased the charging cable kit from RJM injection and the alternator harness from Quickstart alternators. Those part numbers can be found on the previous page of this thread. You don't have to purchase those from the web. Any hardware store with an electrical department or an automotive place with a decent electrical selection will have the stuff you need to make your own charging cable but to be sure I'd go the hardware store route. You will need about 5 feet of heavy gauge wire and the terminals. You end up with some scrap wire but having too much is better than having too little. The only thing you'd have to find on your own is the silicone rubber protector for the alternator post which comes with the kit. You can buy the fuse from the kit at just about any auto parts store. I wanted a new harness rather than a junkyard harness but you can find the alternator harness at a junkyard if you feel like searching. I had an alternate mode of transportation so I didn't lose any time out of work and could bear with the wait time for the shipping.
If you buy an alternator for a 1995, you will have to drill out the top mounting location on the alternator and either use a nut and bolt or tap it out and use a bolt as the thread is smaller than the bolt you remove from your current alternator. Go easy when drilling. You don't want to crack that case. The pivot bolt at the bottom can be reused. One thing about the pivot bolt: if you have an original factory radiator like I did the pivot bolt may not come out all the way. That's ok, because you only need to loosen it to get it out. Mine, however, wouldn't come loose until the bolt was out so I had to cut 1/2" off of the pivot bolt with a grinder while it was tight in the bracket. Mine had an excess of about 3/4" maybe 7/8" of bolt so this won't affect your bolt's functionality. If you have a thinner replacement radiator like I do now, you won't run into this problem. I suppose that if you loosen the bolt and find that the old alternator is stuck in there, you could probably use a sturdy piece of wood like hickory or oak as a lever and muscle it out or use a rubber mallet and bash it out. I had already cracked my radiator with the fire extinguisher when I was putting out my flaming alternator so I decided to go easy.
Installation was a breeze. Just wire up the harness like the directions say and make sure you save enough of the green/black wire from the original harness to butt the new harness to. I clipped it at the old harness and then cut it to proper length after I measured everything. Remove the old orange and black charging wires and replace those with the new charging cable/fuse.
You will probably need a new serpentine belt as well. My truck does not have AC but I compared lengths of belts with a 1992 E150 with a 4.9 with AC and it proved to be the proper length. You will have to figure that part out on your own but I personally wouldn't buy the belt until you try to refit your old belt. Yours may fit, it may not.
Good luck!
#25
01-31-2013, 10:21 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#26
01-31-2013, 11:07 AM
Fleet Mechanic
All 3G alternators are internally regulated. With most of them, the regulator is an easily replaceable module that can be serviced with the alternator in place.
On some of the early 3Gs, the regulator is inside the case - the 110A unit used on a early 90's T-Bird SuperCoupe is this style.
On some of the early 3Gs, the regulator is inside the case - the 110A unit used on a early 90's T-Bird SuperCoupe is this style.
#27
02-04-2013, 10:50 AM
My 1992 Ford F150 2g alternator caught fire last week and thought my truck was going to go up in smoke. Turned out I was able to stop the fire after I pulled the power wires from the alternator because it was the connector that was on fire, not actually the alternator. I did some searching on the net and in addition to this forum I found that this is a common problem for the 2g alternators. Although I don't have any extras in my truck (all stock), I didn't want to by the 2g alternator again fearing a fire might occur again a few years down the road. Not knowing how to upgrade I read up on it and gave it a try and am posting this just in case someone ends up in the same boat as I was and might need to upgrade their 1992 Ford F150 4.9L 2g alternator to a 3g alternator.
After removing my 2g alternator I removed the alternator power harness including the 2 black wires and 1 yellow wire but kept the green/red wire that is for the alternator gauge. I purchased a 3g combo repair plug at the following:
Part # 925606 Ford Repair Plug Combo for 3G Series Alternators
With the above connector you see the yellow wire is no longer necessary, it gets power from the alternator power post. The white wire connector connects to the alternator "Stator" post and the green/red wire connects to the green/red wire that was left behind.
Then I purchased an alternator cable kit at the following:
RJM Injection Tech — Alternator Charge Cable Kit
I installed the mega fuse holder on an 8"x8" L shaped bracket I attached to another bracket that holds one of the emission canisters near the battery and starter solenoid. The side of the bracket that was connected to the canister bracket had to be shortened before installing. I bought the L shaped bracket at home depot, I'm sure most hardware stores have something similar. Then I cut the 4 gauge cables to size soldered on the connectors (easy to do with a propane torch) and put one cable between the hot side of the starter solenoid and one side of the mega fuse. The other cable (not yet installed) connects between the other side of the mega fuse and the alternator power post. These wires replace the black wires previously removed from the harness.
Next I purchased a 95amp stock 3g alternator for a 1992 E150 4.9L at the following:
Part No. 20225112, Replaces: Ford F2UU-10300-EA, Lester 7755
I went with this alternator because I didn't need a high output alternator, it has the same mounting points as the original alternator and has the same size pulley so I don't have the change the belt. It also has an acceptable plug clock position that is similar to the original. The only problem with this alternator is that it accepts a smaller top bolt than the original. I just drilled and tapped it for the old bolt (3/8" x 16 thread). Get the proper size bolt and you won't need to modify a new alternator if you have to get another down the road.
Before I installed the new alternator I had to shape the connector on the cable so that it would fit the power post of the alternator. I used a dremel for this which was quite easy.
Finally I installed the alternator. The yellow wire with ring terminal was placed on the power post of the alternator then the 4 gauge cable with slightly shaped connector was placed on the power post and the nut tightened to hold them in place. Then the gray connector attached to the white wire of the combo connector is connected to the stator terminal on the alternator. Plug in the combo connector re-attach the belt and its done.
I am not endorsing in any way, the stores that I bought my supplies from above. I only put the links in because I cannot attach photos.
I hope this helps anyone who doesn't have the experience like I don't. It wasn't difficult to do so anyone who has reasonable mechanical skills should easily complete this job.
After removing my 2g alternator I removed the alternator power harness including the 2 black wires and 1 yellow wire but kept the green/red wire that is for the alternator gauge. I purchased a 3g combo repair plug at the following:
Part # 925606 Ford Repair Plug Combo for 3G Series Alternators
With the above connector you see the yellow wire is no longer necessary, it gets power from the alternator power post. The white wire connector connects to the alternator "Stator" post and the green/red wire connects to the green/red wire that was left behind.
Then I purchased an alternator cable kit at the following:
RJM Injection Tech — Alternator Charge Cable Kit
I installed the mega fuse holder on an 8"x8" L shaped bracket I attached to another bracket that holds one of the emission canisters near the battery and starter solenoid. The side of the bracket that was connected to the canister bracket had to be shortened before installing. I bought the L shaped bracket at home depot, I'm sure most hardware stores have something similar. Then I cut the 4 gauge cables to size soldered on the connectors (easy to do with a propane torch) and put one cable between the hot side of the starter solenoid and one side of the mega fuse. The other cable (not yet installed) connects between the other side of the mega fuse and the alternator power post. These wires replace the black wires previously removed from the harness.
Next I purchased a 95amp stock 3g alternator for a 1992 E150 4.9L at the following:
Part No. 20225112, Replaces: Ford F2UU-10300-EA, Lester 7755
I went with this alternator because I didn't need a high output alternator, it has the same mounting points as the original alternator and has the same size pulley so I don't have the change the belt. It also has an acceptable plug clock position that is similar to the original. The only problem with this alternator is that it accepts a smaller top bolt than the original. I just drilled and tapped it for the old bolt (3/8" x 16 thread). Get the proper size bolt and you won't need to modify a new alternator if you have to get another down the road.
Before I installed the new alternator I had to shape the connector on the cable so that it would fit the power post of the alternator. I used a dremel for this which was quite easy.
Finally I installed the alternator. The yellow wire with ring terminal was placed on the power post of the alternator then the 4 gauge cable with slightly shaped connector was placed on the power post and the nut tightened to hold them in place. Then the gray connector attached to the white wire of the combo connector is connected to the stator terminal on the alternator. Plug in the combo connector re-attach the belt and its done.
I am not endorsing in any way, the stores that I bought my supplies from above. I only put the links in because I cannot attach photos.
I hope this helps anyone who doesn't have the experience like I don't. It wasn't difficult to do so anyone who has reasonable mechanical skills should easily complete this job.
I just replaced my connections wires and alternator and the truck drives about ten miles before shutting down, because the battery has been drained.
I had to put a 9000 watt generator in the back of my truck to recharge the battery to start moving again.
I am thinking about adding a second battery. I don't think the alternator will keep up, so I may go your route.
#28
02-04-2013, 11:44 AM
it's easier to do than you think. Once you have the alternator and new wiring harness in front of you, you'll figure it out easily.
Swap in the old pulley OR from what I read, a longer belt from a truck with AC will work. I choose the old pulley and keep with the stock belt, it spins faster.
If you go dual battery, a battery selector switch for marine applications works pretty good. I burnt out a few isolators before I went this route. You can run on the one battery and then give yourself a boost if you switch it to ALL without battery cables.
PERCO (I wish they had the locking version when I bought mine)
PERKO Battery Switches at West Marine
Swap in the old pulley OR from what I read, a longer belt from a truck with AC will work. I choose the old pulley and keep with the stock belt, it spins faster.
If you go dual battery, a battery selector switch for marine applications works pretty good. I burnt out a few isolators before I went this route. You can run on the one battery and then give yourself a boost if you switch it to ALL without battery cables.
PERCO (I wish they had the locking version when I bought mine)
PERKO Battery Switches at West Marine
#29
02-04-2013, 11:49 AM
Fleet Mechanic
#30
02-04-2013, 12:41 PM
it's easier to do than you think. Once you have the alternator and new wiring harness in front of you, you'll figure it out easily.
Swap in the old pulley OR from what I read, a longer belt from a truck with AC will work. I choose the old pulley and keep with the stock belt, it spins faster.
If you go dual battery, a battery selector switch for marine applications works pretty good. I burnt out a few isolators before I went this route. You can run on the one battery and then give yourself a boost if you switch it to ALL without battery cables.
PERCO (I wish they had the locking version when I bought mine)
PERKO Battery Switches at West Marine
Swap in the old pulley OR from what I read, a longer belt from a truck with AC will work. I choose the old pulley and keep with the stock belt, it spins faster.
If you go dual battery, a battery selector switch for marine applications works pretty good. I burnt out a few isolators before I went this route. You can run on the one battery and then give yourself a boost if you switch it to ALL without battery cables.
PERCO (I wish they had the locking version when I bought mine)
PERKO Battery Switches at West Marine
I see your a fan of "West Marine". I love marine products because they withstand more than the ordinary O.E.M products.
I rebuilt a boat from scratch years ago. West Marine had all the right products and the secrets to using gel coat and the correct fiberglass resin that the auto parts stores do not stock.
Talking about it probably needs a thread of its own.