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  #16  
Old 01-05-2011, 10:54 PM
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Sure its getting spark? Rip one of the wires off, stick a screwdriver in the end and let the screwdriver touch the block. Crank engine over and see if you can see the screwdriver arch-no arch means no spark. No spark and it wont start no mater what you do.
 
  #17  
Old 01-05-2011, 11:00 PM
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squirt a little fuel in it or a shot of starting fluid that will rule out the spark issue. Then go from there.
 
  #18  
Old 01-06-2011, 04:00 AM
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If both pumps come on and cycle then I doubt thats the issue.
 
  #19  
Old 01-06-2011, 07:07 AM
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Even if the fuel filter is bad and you do not start the engine by turning the key on and off a few times will build up pressure at the fuel rail. The fuel filter if bad will not stop the fuel flow 100%. It could be a fuel pressure regulator stuck open but you need to put a fuel pressure gauge on it and ground pin#6 of the self-test plug with the key on and see what you get. It should get between 40 and 45 PSI.
 
  #20  
Old 01-06-2011, 09:47 PM
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Well, here is an update... I replaced the fuel filter and it was clogged and letting very little fuel pass through. Now I have pressure at the schrader valve. I replaced the ignition module as well and have spark but still it will not start. I have talked to some mechanics in my shop( work for a trucking company) and they are stumped. I have only two things i can now think of, coil is bad and not getting enough spark or it has jumped time. Have no codes in the computer ( OBD1 ) and I am now at a loss. I have a new coil and am going to try that tomorrow before I have it towed and just give up...
 
  #21  
Old 01-07-2011, 12:10 AM
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Just a shot in the dark....After you changed the filter, have you tried several times to crank it? Sometimes with the system mostly de-pressurized, it may take several times in order to push the air out and fresh fuel to get to the injectors. I know it was the same on my 2 fords when I changed the fuel pumps and injectors. Just be sure that the battery is holding a good charge, may even have to charge it once before trying again, depending on how many times you have tried starting it.

If that "Shot in the Dark" doesn't work, I would suggest checking fuel pressure and other things you have noted such as the coil.
 
  #22  
Old 01-07-2011, 07:35 AM
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If the the fuel filter was clogged (and I doubt that it was) and not letting any fuel through and you tried both pumps then I would say you blew out both high pressure check valves in both Fuel Delivery Modules. Then when selecting that pump it is now pumping into the other tank and that would mean your fuel pressure is now below starting pressure of about 25 PSI.

I hope the ignition module you put on was Black in color as the gray one will not work well on your truck.
The Black remote mounted Ignition Control Module very seldom if ever goes bad so if you put a gray one one put the black one back on.

If you have spark why would you want to change Ignition Coils?

Have you tried to check the codes? That may tell you what is wrong with it.

You may also want to check the injectors with a noid light.
 
  #23  
Old 01-07-2011, 10:09 AM
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X2 What Subford said. just because you have fuel visable doesn't mean there is enough pressure to start the truck.
 
  #24  
Old 01-07-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Terry S
X2 What Subford said. just because you have fuel visable doesn't mean there is enough pressure to start the truck.
You have to have good, consistent pressure at the schraeder valve. Does your truck have the frame mounted high pressure fuel pump?

I've never had a timing chain "jump time". Not saying it can't happen, but does anyone know HOW it happens?
 
  #25  
Old 01-08-2011, 07:17 PM
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Well, here is where I am at. Checked the fuel pumps and they are working, Checked for fire and have plenty, Timing if fine , compression is good, checked fuel pressure regulator and guess what, I had a vacuum leak at the regulator. Repaired the line and she fired right up. Problem solved,,,, WRONG. While she started right up the idle was high, 2500 rpm. Tried to drive it thinking it may be stuck because it has not cranked in a week and it also would not shift properly. I don't mean it shifted late, I mean there is no rhyme or reason to the shifting. Had to shift from D to 2 and then back to D to keep it from overreving and blowing up. Unhooked the IAC and it idled smooth. Turned it off and then it would not start again without spraying starting fluid in the TB. Have several mechanics scratching their heads and me ready to pull mine out. To top it off, we have snow and ice predicted for tomorrow morning and they are not prepared for that in this part of the country and now I am without my 4X4. I am at a total loss.
 
  #26  
Old 01-08-2011, 08:04 PM
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sounds like you either have a vacum leak with the high idle or a tps issue. but seeing as it was running correctly before i doubt the tps.

retrace your steps double check your work. uplug your battery for a bit while working to reset computer to rule that issue out. others will chime in with maybe a bit more knowledge but that is where i would start seeing as how it was fine before the starting issue.
 
  #27  
Old 01-08-2011, 10:07 PM
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Sounds like a PCM Computer going south (bad).
 
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  #28  
Old 01-08-2011, 10:45 PM
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Thanks Subford, that is what i am thinking now. Had some shifting issues that popped up suddenly a few months ago. Just figured the trans was going (186000 miles) but the strange things just keep piling up. I have a friend who is a mechanic and is going to look at it tomorrow, but I am leaning toward the PCM as the problem. Hopefully if that is so, i can replace it and keep her running for a long time. I really appreciate all of you advice.
 
  #29  
Old 01-08-2011, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
Sounds like a PCM Computer going south (bad).
I agree. Especially with the Transmission shift issues added to the mix.
 
  #30  
Old 01-10-2011, 01:38 PM
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How could you check the timing if it won't start?
 


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