Kevin I have a good dipstick and tube off of a C6 if you need it is yours. Just handle the shipping.

 

Notice here.
bought an 84 f150 automatic with 302.
I have been told the TV cable that runs from carb to trans had broken and caused the trans to overheat. The overdrive is gone, but other gears seem to operate now. But I understand it is only a matter of a short time before it goes completely out. To rebuild estimates $1,000 to $1,500
or try a buy used one which sounds risky. Any thoughts?
The body is in good shape with some surface rust, back main leaks some oil. Maybe should just sell it.
Gary

 

I have heard the TV cables will smoke a tranny if they arent hooked up right. Ford didnt run the AOD very long. Might look for a used one cheap and swap it. You could find a C6 and run it. You may want to swap the shift indicator to one that doesnt have the OD if you go the C6 route.

 

Let's see, today I used the Mazda truck to take a set of unused wheels to storage, and grabbed a pair of tires. Back at the house, I tossed those tires in the back of dad's truck, and went to have them mounted/balanced.
Once that was done, I loaded up a bunch of crap I was tired of having to move in order to mow, and went back to storage.
With all the unneeded stuff out of the bed of dad's truck, I set about cleaning out all the leaves that had accumulated under the toolbox. Hidden in those leaves were numerous rear brake parts (no clue where they could have come from) a passenger side hood hinge in good condition (to replace the sprung/bent one on the truck) and even a pair of valves for an FE head (1 of each). Lots of other stuff too, but most of that was just trash can filler.
Washed dad's truck, and scrubbed most of the scum off the chrome wheels and front bumper. Looks pretty darn good. It's getting there.
Might have to contact Gary and see if he has a good alternator. The one on dad's truck currently won't keep up with the headlights, unless the engine is over 1500 RPM. Not good for driving around town at night.......

 

Paul , I have a few 4th Gens in my garage. They are for serpentine belts and mount on top instead of hanging underneath. I dont know if it would be possible to swap cases with yours or not. I bet a 3G would swap over,but, A 1st or 2nd gen might not.

 

Yep, Gary has one. Don't know if it is good as it came off of the '82 that's out back. But, it should be as the PO said all was well until the engine let go. And, I think the one off the '85 is up there as well. All 1st gen IIRC.

 

Not sure what you mean by 4th gen. I am familiar with the 3G "top mount" style, as that's what the Mazda (ranger) has, and I suspect it is the source of the loud BUZZ that recently appeared under the hood.....

Hmmm, might have to make a roadtrip in dad's truck. I'm not 100% positive the alt is bad/weak, but the volt meter only reads a bit over 12 with the lights on. Turn them off, and it will climb to almost 14V.
Lights on, the voltmeter will barely exceed 13V even at highway speeds.

 

The 3G will fit in place of a 1G or 2G as long as it is a axial mount rather than a tangent mount. On the AOD, the 89 up has an improved case and internals. The AOD was used starting in 1980 on cars and continued until the AOD-E started phasing in in 1992 last year of use was 1993.

 

Going to see Dad on Saturday. May be out and about some Friday. So call or PM. Should have regulators as well, and it may be that instead of the alternator.

 

While you're dispensing related wisdom, have a concise list of 3g donors? A lot of varied information out there, only continual source I see is a MK3, none of those at the pick/pull.

 

I belive the case and such for the 3Gen vs 4Gen is the same. I believe the 4Gen is a little heavier duty and may provide more amprage. They have all the way up through 6th Gen. Mine are for the powerstroke 7.3,but, will mount on any top mount type application or tanagent like Bill was calling it.

 

Ah, man that would've been great to know about six months ago. Oh well, I stopped by my builder again yesterday after work. Gave him the cam card. He is going to research up a similar cam, but from another company.

If it is a header leak, I suggest the Remflex brand graphite header gaskets. That is what I replaced the old ones with. They're on the pricier side. But well worth it in my opinion.

Today when I get home, I need to measure for side pipes. My IDI will be getting 3 inch side pipes.

 

Recently removed the thermostat from the truck, darn thing froze up. Replaced the thermostat housing while i was at it even though there was nothing wrong with it. This is one made out ofthe thick heavy metal and the new one was the same, not some thin pot metal around the flanges. If i can find the original, i'll post on here to the freebie list. Like i said, theres nothing wrong with it but being a redneck i like shiny things


that was done by the PO, figured a naval engineer would know better lol


thats the new housing, bought it from the local orielleys. Its not a cheapo where the flanges break off. Heard that other people was having that problem, this was some thick casting

 

I put the gauge on my fuel line last night. It read between 8.5 and 9psi. I guess a FPR is in my future.

I also noticed a kind of rattling/sucking sound coming from the carb. I tried to take a video of it but with all the other noise I couldn't get the camera to isolate on just that. Would gas pushing past the rods make this kind of sound since I'm about 2psi higher than the max on this carb?

 

Jeremy - Could the rattling/sucking sound be coming from the PCV valve? That's a very good description of the sound those make, and it is connected to the bottom of the carb - at least mine is connected to the bottom of my 1406. To test that, pull the PCV valve and put your finger over the bottom of it. The noise should stop.

As for the fuel pressure, is that at idle or rev'ed? The E'brock manual says something to the effect that you might have idle issues if you have too much pressure. That would imply that the needles may not be able to stop all the flow and the fuel level would come up, causing the A/F ratio to enrichen. But, that is a might, so if you aren't having that problem I'm not sure it is necessary to put a regulator on. To this point I don't have a problem at idle, but haven't checked the fuel pressure. Maybe I should.

Having said all that, if the noise is truly in the carb I don't think it would be the fuel rushing past the rods as I wouldn't think that would cause either a rattle or a sucking sound. Instead, maybe there is a vibration in the float/arm/needle/seat combination, kinda like some toilet valves squeal as they close. Some needles on the E'brocks have a spring-loaded follower that contacts the float arm, and I can see that it would be possible for an oscillation to happen as it tried to close against a lot of pressure.

Anyway, check the PCV valve first.