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I don't see any #'s. But, maybe this will help. Here's the schematic from the wiring book, and I think the connector you are talking about is C-725:
And, here's what that connector is supposed to look like:
Thanks thats exactly what i was looking for. I wanted to know the pin out view so i can swap wires around and only plug in once. I also didnt want to break the connector trying to release it from its holder.
Paint came in, looks to be the right color for my interior. I looked at my kick panels at the white area on them and found out when touching you can see the texture flake off the kick panels. I will try to paint them to see how they come out but I have two used kick panels I got off ebay for $24.99 that look to not have this crumbling problem just incase.
Paint came in, looks to be the right color for my interior. I looked at my kick panels at the white area on them and found out when touching you can see the texture flake off the kick panels. I will try to paint them to see how they come out but I have two used kick panels I got off ebay for $24.99 that look to not have this crumbling problem just incase.
I don't think the paint will "fix" the dead plastic. I think you will have to sand the dead stuff off. I do it "wet" as the sand paper clogs pretty quickly otherwise.
I don't think the paint will "fix" the dead plastic. I think you will have to sand the dead stuff off. I do it "wet" as the sand paper clogs pretty quickly otherwise.
This stuff is flaking pretty good just touching it I might be able to brush it off. But most of it is around the edge of the kick panel that you see with the door open. Its mainly cause people kick it getting in and out of the truck.
I also thought eastwood sold a spray texture that duplicates the oem vinyl grain texture. Cant find it now if I could I would try to repair theses and keep the others for when I finish the truck up if theses get damaged too badly.
~Update~
I am also $34 poorer right now as I just won a auction on a clock. I already had the clock I am going to use but this one came with the extension harness that I need for plug and play operation. I will how ever clean the clock up test it for function which it should work fine and then relist it on ebay for $35 to $40 so someone else can have a working clock and I can get my harness for nothing.
I thought of doing that Rain-X stuff myself mainly on my outside rearview mirrors as they when it rains are impossible to see out of. It also doesn't help when your back window does the same thing as you cant get to it to clean it because of the camper.
Big reason why I want to get rid of the camper down the road. I don't go camping so I don't need the camper to house all my supplies going down the highway when going to the camp grounds.
Did the brakes on the Dodge today. Apparently I did them on 03/27/13 the last time. I guess 2-1/2 years for a set of Wagner Thermo Quiets is decent. The last time I did them I had a squeak on the passenger side. It didnt bother me until I ruined a rotor this time because I never heard the warning tab making contact. This time they are quiet like a church mouse.
Seems like Thursday I started hearing something that wasnt right. Friday rolled around and it was obvious they were metal on metal. So I went to the shop and grabbed Whitey to finish the day out. Warranteed the pads at Advanced, but since they screwed me around for hours on warranteeing the A/C compressor I put on the Dodge this Summer I have been buying parts from O'Reilly again. They were cheaper on the commercial account than Advanced was anyways. I havent really understood how they work that. The managers at Advanced say if we will buy more then they will give us a better discount. However, the reason why we went back to O'Reilly after 10 years is because they are taking better care of us than Advanced. So I dont see Advanced getting any more play.
Changed my cowl to hood seal today. I used the Lowes garage door seal.
Did anyone who's done that use any sealant on the back side? I used some clear silicone but being I did this in the rain I don't think it's going to stick. Might have to re do that part. Other than that, the seal is great.
No wonder my old seal didn't seal anymore, it was crystallized.
Pulled the kick panels today and sprayed them shadow blue after scrubbing them. Then I went and took my Mercury to get it inspected, need to fix the running condition on it, I so far found the choke pull off is not working so I believe part of my vacuum leak there is causing me problems. I then found out why my '56 wont idle down anymore like it did before. Problem is in he carb, the bushings are sticking the throttle shaft, I turned the screw out some today after replacing the gaskets an no difference was made but I grabbed and pulled on the throttle linkage and the engine idle down some more down to 650 rpm in netural and 550 in gear.
Before and after photos of the kick panels will be attacked via phone after I post this.
Hey guys I hope someone isn't to busy with Halloween and is able to answer. I picked up some royal purple 75-90 to change out the diff fluid. Now that I'm under the truck (I assumed it was just a typical cover on the back end of the diff, wrong of course) it looks like I need to drop the drive shaft and diff input shaft before I can pull the cover? Im going to pump out the front diff for now until I have some more time to pull the 3rd member and tap in a drain plug, I'd rather not do that on the rear.. I wanna make sure there is no metal sitting in the bottom. So is my assumption correct that I need to pull the drive and input shafts? I didn't buy a new input seal so I need to wait if that's the case. It's a 1980 with the 9" rear btw.
Hey guys I hope someone isn't to busy with Halloween and is able to answer. I picked up some royal purple 75-90 to change out the diff fluid. Now that I'm under the truck (I assumed it was just a typical cover on the back end of the diff, wrong of course) it looks like I need to drop the drive shaft and diff input shaft before I can pull the cover? Im going to pump out the front diff for now until I have some more time to pull the 3rd member and tap in a drain plug, I'd rather not do that on the rear.. I wanna make sure there is no metal sitting in the bottom. So is my assumption correct that I need to pull the drive and input shafts? I didn't buy a new input seal so I need to wait if that's the case. It's a 1980 with the 9" rear btw.
Yes, on a 9" you have to pull the axle shafts, disconnect the driveshaft and pull the third member to drain the fluid.
Ive heard lots of people recommend drilling the bottom of the housing and tapping it with a pipe tap and thread in a pipe plug for draining capability. Me personally I have had decent luck with using my mityvac and the smallest plastic tube they supplied, slides right down through the filler plug into the bottom of the housing. Wont clean the bottom good but not bad for doing a fluid change.
10-30-2015, 04:11 PM
I hope someone isn't to busy with Halloween and is able to answer. I picked up some royal purple 75-90 to change out the diff fluid. Now that I'm under the truck (I assumed it was just a typical cover on the back end of the diff, wrong of course) it looks like I need to drop the drive shaft and diff input shaft before I can pull the cover? Im going to pump out the front diff for now until I have some more time to pull the 3rd member and tap in a drain plug, I'd rather not do that on the rear.. I wanna make sure there is no metal sitting in the bottom. So is my assumption correct that I need to pull the drive and input shafts? I didn't buy a new input seal so I need to wait if that's the case. It's a 1980 with the 9" rear btw.
