OK So I park the truck this morning and as I start to walk away, thank fully past the front of the truck, I notice a beaded line of oil leading back to under the truck. Grab my flashlight and sure enough, a puddle. It looks like it is leaking pretty badly and I drive 68 miles one way to work.
There is a beaded line of oil leading to where I stopped then back into the parking spot as I backed in... however. While sitting, it didn't drip anymore. At least not that I could see. No new drips into the puddle as I watched for a few seconds.

I checked the engine valley and it is dry. I looked underneath and it looks like the oil is just drooled all around the oil pan and drain plug. I was thinking drain plug but that would leak even if not running. So I will need to get under there to look closer.
But that is for later. I still need to get it home so I can get under it and start on the problem.

As for symptoms...other than the oil leaking... none. Runs like normal. regular warm ups, normal acceleration etc. Just spewing oil apparently when it is running.
No fluids mixed between oil, fuel or fuel in coolant.
Just leaking.
I am really hoping for an easy fix. Major repair bill is not what I need right now.

So... possible culprits?

Thanks all!

 

Oil cooler. It can leak externally only so there would not be any mixing of fluids...YET.

Dip stick bung o-ring. The one on this truck only leaked when running for the most part....one quart per 100 miles.

If it is either, use only oem gaskets and o-rings.

 

If it is the dip stick, any tips or tricks I should know about? I keep reading about parts falling into the oil pan.

I will start searching and reading on the oil cooler.

 

OK I have done some checking and got squirreled from the oil cooler repair. Seems like the dipstick flange leaking can also cause this issue... even the leaking when running only symptom.
Any input on this one?

Thanks!

 

If it's the oil cooler, you should notice a drip or oil at either one end, or both, of the oil cooler headers. It's not a bad job, just time consuming and dirty.

 

I had to do mine in a parking lot next to an O'Reilly's when I was about 600 miles from home. Removing the starter is a huge help. Dipstick tube has to be removed via lower front bolt on PS valve cover

Mark the "exact" orientation of the bung/flange. There are at least two possible slots.

I used a pair of needle nosed Vice-grips to keep the bung from falling into the abyss. I was afraid that the Vice-grips would damage the seating surface for the tube but they didn't. The old o-ring needs to be removed. Slip the oring over the Vice-grips if it isn't broken. Reverse to get the new one in. Don't over tighten. Getting the tube back in can be a pain sometimes. I used a nail puller as a pry bar.

Some parts stores stock a gasket to use in lieu of the O-ring. Many times the gasket seems to be too thick. I prefer the o-ring. I also use some RTV on the outside between the oil pan and the retaining nut.

An x-large pair of channel locks comes in very handy.

 

Here are two videos I made with my truck started leaking oil or bleeding out oil rather from the dipstick adapter on the oil pan. Hope this helps.

Problem- using Video Tube.

Repair-

 

[SIZE="5"][/HOLY CRAP!!!!!SIZE]

OK That is a lot more than I expected to see but BLEEDING is right!

Guess I need to get my truck home and get to work. Hopefully it will make it the 68 miles.
What repair kit did you use?

 

Tighten ur up Bilkybob. I DREAD this repair. It's why I'm always under tightening mine once a month...

 

SHADDUP!!!!!! I am too damn **** to let it go even after snugging it. Besides....I really hate oil spots on my shop floor.

 

Well then, there is this: http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2690...epair-kit.aspx

It will come in handy if you drop the original and don't want to pull the engine to drop the pan

 

ok Im gonna start beating someone.... $300??!!! For that price it had better give me a happy ending too!

It is Monday... you guys are gonna give me heart failure before the day is over.

 

OK I keep seeing these kits that include the portion everyone is afraid of dropping...If you don't remove the oil pan, how the hell do you get that part out? I saw a video and it looked like the guy just dropped it into the oil pan and started installing the $300 part. WTH? You cant just leave that in there ..... can you ?

 

Aaaannnnddd on another note.... I have seem about 3 different types of sealant to use on the outside to help it seal...as well as some say just use a little oil on the big o-ring to Vaseline to red tacky grease to hold it in place...etc.

What are the real options?

 

According to the link, you simply leave the metal flange/bung part in there AFTER removing the o-ring. It falls to the lowest part of the sump and never causes a problem.