Truck will crank but won't turnover. Can i determine TDC with a compression gauge?

 

Was it running then quit or quit and won't restart?

 

I'd first start by checking fuel pressure and spark.
If you need to find tdc 1, just remove the plug and stick your finger in the hole, bump the engine over until the air pressure pushes your finger out. Then turn the engine slightly by hand until the timing marks line up.

 

It was turning over before the new distributor was put in, now it will crank for a little bit but the belts stop turning

 

The distributor was just replaced. The old cap had a mark on the inside over the no. 1 plug, the engine was turned until the rotor lined up to the mark, the New distributor was lined to that mark during the install. Now I'm not sure if it was at TDC

 

The belts stop but the starter is still making noise? Or does everything stop

 

Starter still makes noise

 

Can you be more descriptive as to what's going on when you attempt to start it?

 

It cranks for a second or 2, then the cranking slows down. The starter starts clicking as I turn the key to switch it off. The belts stop turning somewhere within the 5 seconds of trying to start it

 

Charge the battery then give it a try

 

How can I tell if the engine is "California"? I bought an OBD 1 FORD code reader from AutoZone but on the back of the package in small print under 7.5L it says excludes California and Diesel engines. I can't seem to find my vehicle identification plate

 

Why was the distributor changed

 

Your battery is dead or bad and needs either a full charge or a replacement.
Most if not all 1995 trucks are OBD1 except Diesels. You will have the test connector on the drivers side fender.

 

The battery is new. The test connector on the truck matches the one the code reader but on the package under where it says I can test 7.5L engines it says excluding California

 

from the sound of this ... new or not, you have drained it and it needs to be re-charged.