I have put valve covers on for the second time, using rubber now, after the first cork ones leaked. The rubber ones still leak from the back. What I'm curious about is the little "tabs" that are all around the edge of the gaskets. The cork and rubber both have them. They seem to be slightly perforated at the edges of them where they meet the main part of the gasket. I'm using cast aluminum edelbrock valve covers. What are these tabs for? I always cut them off as I can't see how they would go on. Maybe it's a dumb question but I just have no idea.

 

Those tabs are for the stock valve covers which have cutouts right where the tabs go.

 

Okay, thanks! That's what I was thinking. I was just trying to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Thank you.

 

I have rubber also. I put a little RTV on them and went easy on tightening them. If you over do it they will leak. Just my experience.

 

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

 

If you have steel valve covers, they can get distorted at the bolt holes from over tightening. Make sure that the surface is clean and flat. I use a little permatex between the valve cover and the gasket. I prefer the cork gaskets. Good luck.

 

I agree. Have had to much trouble with rubber gaskets squeezing out even when properly torqued.

 

I have a problem with my rubber gaskets also, suckers lear like crazy and cause oil to run down the back of the engine, making me think I had a bad rear main. I´m hoping to fix my warped valve covers from over tightening due to the crappy rubber gasket

 

A leak at the back of the engine can also be the intake manifold. Hopefully, the valve covers are the problem.

 

Are you guys using the black rubber gaskets with metal inside?
Also the little tabs are for certain years as my 59 doesn't have the cutouts in the valve covers.

 

I have used the rubber and the metal core rubber. No luck with either.
As old as these engines are, any year cover could be on any year engine.

 

I've fix several bent valve covers from over torqueing by turning the valve cover upside down with the edge on a piece of wood, then take a small ball ping hammer and tap the center of each bolt hole to straighten out the bend.
Normally I give the holes a slight reverse bend.

 

Cork gaskets and a trim hammer along the edge of the valve cover against a 2x4 to level out the lip and no leaks once torqued correctly. Of course having the Holley jets in the oil supply hole for the rockers, to limit the amount of oil to return, does help some.

 

The problem with FE valve covers leaking is the metal on the valve covers is way too thin. It will not compress either cork or rubber before they start to bend at the bolt holes. It would help if the gaskets, either cork or rubber were softer. I am tempted to ditch the gaskets altogether and try some Motorcraft sealant in a tube that I use on 7.3 diesels.

 

I have had all the same issues, its pretty common on the FE covers. I ended up getting a set of spreaders and they work pretty well, turned my drip into a small seep.... and I can live with that.... You can find them on ebay ....... had to grind them down a bit to fit perfect, I think the cheap set was for a 302 or something, but they work pretty well...........