Hey Guys, been looking at upgrading my starter. Found this on ebay today.

From what I've read they are a direct replacement to our 6.0 trucks. This one looks alittle dirty but it only has 100k on it. Comes with a 90 day warranty.

What do you think, go for it? Should I upgrade my wiring battery cable wiring and grounds while i'm in there?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351645752384?euid=3693f40857da4951b124b3965b695b75&bu=43439896577&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu

 

I would not hesitate to buy it if I was looking for one. That starter might go another 100k+....who knows?

Direct replacement yes. Upgrading cables good idea if you are thinking about it.

 

My thoughts exactly. Even if I keep the truck another 5 years I wont put 50k on it. I average 8k a year generally

Thanks for the input

 

When you start looking at salvage parts like starters and alternators (and I have no problem with salvaged components) is first you need to decide if you want OE or are acceptable to an aftermarket replacement. Coming off a salvaged vehicle it can be either and most yards are not that concerned or may not even identify as such. So if you absolutely want an OE part, you need to familiarize yourself with coloration and markings. Years ago I snagged a recent replaced alternator from a salvage for a family vehicle and it was great. You have to decide what you want.

Also if your looking off eBay rather then in person check current and past sales of that part from that yard. I've come across some that keep recycling the donor vehicle data, so maybe it has 50k on it, or maybe 100k when they do that.

I've also gotten salvage parts off eBay too, not just local. I like Texas parts as they don't have the oxidation. Last year got a really nice rear bumper, and a rear knuckle assembly for our LS. For the LS when a rear hub goes bad the choices are $850 for the dealer part, $50 for a bearing and take the chance the knuckle will get cracked (which is why Lincoln doesn't do that), or salvage for about $85.

 

Just looked on Rock Auto and you can buy one (REMAN) for $129 (incl core price of $20)

Then I went to Autozone. They have a Duralast for about $200+ core (with a lifetime warr)

Rock Auto will also sell an AC Delco and Bosch reman for about $160 (+ core) which makes them around $220 and a Motorcraft starter for about $300 (+core)

They're all reman starters.

My 6.0L is a 2005 model and it starts great.

Why would I want a 6.4 starter if the one I have is spinning the engine fast enough?

 

It does spin faster and fires off faster.

Do we need it, no, and I still have my 6.0 starter.

What I'm not sure about is if the 6.4 starter draws more amps.

 

I just did this upgrade on my truck a few hours ago, the starter turns over effortlessly.. and a double the speed, the truck starts MUCH quicker. This is one of the best upgrades I've done ( just my 2 cents worth)

 

Sounds like the best choice might then be the Autozone "Duralast" starter for $212.

If the 6.0L starter even looks similar, they'd take it as a core.

But the core value is only $27. I think I'd keep my old one as a spare anyway. (to use if I had to pull the AZ one for replacement under the limited lifetime warranty!)

You would never have to buy another starter!! I

n the 20 years I had my 1994 Suburban diesel, I replaced the alternator 3 times. Everytime I did, AZ just kept giving me a "new" one under the "warranty"!!

 

Jack, you can call me stupid (or anything else for that matter), but how could it not? This has to be another no-free-lunch deal: The engine is a given, correct? If it spins it faster it must have larger windings which require more juice.

There is no free lunch, it has to draw more power to spin the given constant faster, or am I missing something?

 

Scott,

I expect it does.

I ain't measured it so ..... can't say as fact.

It could be higher speed motor with a higher ratio gearbox. But you're right, there's no way you spin that much mass faster with a higher amount of energy.

 

It probably would draw more current. But the batteries we have are more adequate for the job!

 

Yep. If the starter is drawing more amps we are going to see a deeper spike down to a lower voltage at peak effort. That will leave a smaller margin to FICM supply voltage during cold weather.

Same thing happens right now when all the battery and starter cables are upgraded, as the stock cables are SAE adequate, but still somewhat limiting. Add a more powerful starter and even more amps will be flowed.

 

A few years back I pulled into the Carl's Jr. drive thru and shut off the engine, placed my order, turned key to start and received a horrible grinding, screaming, screaching metal noise and said WTF? Looked under and found the lower starter bolt was missing, never removed or touched it. Used some tie wire and a vise grip clamp to align and hold and she started up. Drove to the shop and put a new bolt with some red on it. Turns out the starter housing had also cracked when this happened but I ran it for at least 3 years before recently replacing it with a 6.4 starter since I had the motor out.

I pulled these pics of stats from another site first 2 are the 6.0 starter, 2nd 2 are the 6.4. These are test sheets pulled from starters at a parts store.

I have stock 6.0 and 6.4 trucks at work and will take a look at the cable size difference between the 2 just for $h1ts n giggles. I also have an inductive clamp meter I can try to measure the amp draw between all 3 trucks.

6670 is the 6.0
6675 is the 6.4

 

Hmm. From your info, the "6.4" starter is lower power, lower current draw, lower max (by 27%) torque, lower unloaded RPM, and lower torque every test RPM.

Maybe it's because the gear ratio is "lower" for the 6.4 starter? But if that's true, it should produce lower cranking RPM than the 6.0L starter.

I thought everybody here reported a higher cranking RPM using a 6.4L starter.

Do you have the charts reversed maybe?

Most of them are AC clamp meters. I want one of those! But the DC clamp meters and Clamp probes are expensive!! I have a Fluke 189. The Fluke i1010 AC/DC Clamp (1000A max DC A) is $375!

What kind is yours?


If your charts are right and the 6.4L starter DOES in fact turn the engine faster and draws less current (power) from electrical system,

THAT's the starter to havel on every 6.0L truck there is!!!!

Cheers,


Rick


Oh, and btw,

Before I paid $80 + $22 for shipping for a used one that might be defective, I would pay $50 (free shipping) for this one: (which also might be defective.........but they both have a return policy)


http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-09-10-FORD-F250-F350-SD-SUPER-DUTY-STARTER-MOTOR-6-4L-DIESEL-7C3Z11002AA/201653324884?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39798%26meid%3D88e186b702bc419083ff54b950683f0e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D351645752384

 

I was also thinking the pages might be reversed. My new 6.4 starter spins so much faster ( and it fires off MUCH faster) it sounds like the high torque mini starter I had on my high compression Mustang. After looking at the sheets I don't see how there could be so much of a differance ( they also look almost identical) but the weight is significantly heavier on the 6.4. I'm just happy with how improved the performance is...even if I can't figure out why.