02 F250 Overhead Console Gone Out
#151
06-23-2010, 08:52 AM
BTW, I'm in Mont Belvieu just up the road. If you need any help with this, let me know.
#152
06-23-2010, 10:28 AM
#153
06-23-2010, 02:48 PM
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#154
06-23-2010, 05:38 PM
I live in Pearland and work in Mont Belvieu. Not a problem to get by if you need a hand with it. I have a buddy of mine who is an electrical engineer with Volvo Truck at the research center in Greensboro, NC. I had him get the soldering done for me there on mine. Anyhow, more than willing to assist if help is needed.
#155
06-24-2010, 10:14 PM
WOW, My display had been getting dimmer and dimmer over the past year so I thought that I would do a search to see if anyone else has had this problem and what they needed to do to repair/replace. I guess that I am not the first one to have this problem. My truck is an '03 Crew Cab F350 with a sunroof, so the console does not have any of the eyeglaas holders or garage door remote holders, etc. Removal of the console was easy, just solidly pull it straight down, I pulled the front(windshield side) first and then the back. The are 4 clips that hold it in place, none of the "L" clips that you need to manually undo. Just unplug the necesary plugs, and remove the 3 Torx screws and there is the circuit board. I am glad that I read this post as in my case all looked well, at least initially. There is a row of 3 resistors and a row of 4 resistors, mine were all in place and appeared to be connected, upon closer examination and lightly touching them with a toothpick 3 of the 4 in a row fell right out, the other 3 in a row were still solidly attached.
I went ahead and replaced all 7 of them with the more traditional bar type resistors just putting the new leads through the hles next to the old contacts and soldering them to the back of the board. I found it helpful to remove and reinstall the capacitor that is in front of the resistors. I was amazed at how small these suckers are, you need the hands of a 2 year old or a good set of tweezers and some good light and eyesight/magnafying glass.
Thanks so much for the insight and guidance. A new unit is about $155.00 at the dealer or $120 on line. I paid about $2 for the resistors at the electronics store and about 15 minutes of my time.
I went ahead and replaced all 7 of them with the more traditional bar type resistors just putting the new leads through the hles next to the old contacts and soldering them to the back of the board. I found it helpful to remove and reinstall the capacitor that is in front of the resistors. I was amazed at how small these suckers are, you need the hands of a 2 year old or a good set of tweezers and some good light and eyesight/magnafying glass.
Thanks so much for the insight and guidance. A new unit is about $155.00 at the dealer or $120 on line. I paid about $2 for the resistors at the electronics store and about 15 minutes of my time.
#157
07-10-2010, 09:03 AM
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Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck. Click on the red links for detailed photos.
First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.
Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.
Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.
Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).
Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).
Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.
Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!
Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from prior bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.
Let me know if you have additional questions and good luck!
First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.
Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.
Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.
Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).
Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).
Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.
Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!
Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from prior bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.
Let me know if you have additional questions and good luck!
Crew diesel. Suppose the summers heat in closed cabs causes the resisters to expand/contract causing the solder to break. The 620ohm resister had not fallen from the
PC board but one end was slightly raised. Almost missed it. Thanks again.
New member,
auntbess
#158
07-28-2010, 02:31 PM
The overhead console display in my '01 F250 began several months ago to fluctuate in intensity. Eventually, the display went out, only to reappear if I bumped the console with a knuckle.It finally went out for good. I searched the forum for the problem and found this excellent thread. The console came out easily and disassembled with no trouble, but I found nothing wrong with the chips, so it was off to the dealer.The computer said '01 owners had to buy an entire replacement console, at a cost over $300, but '02 and later owners could buy only a replacement circuit board for less than $130.The parts gal and I compared my original circuit board to an '02 replacement board and could see no visible difference, so I bought it and installed it.Works fine, and I saved more than $180...no thanks to Ford replacement info.
okay guys. after installing my cab lights, i figured i would take a look at my overhead console to see if i could bring it back to life. I followed the instructions in the first few posts of this thread, but my symptoms were exactly as described above. Everything was intact upon inspection of the circuit board and when i press on the screen really hard, it allows me to see the display for a second or two and then sometimes it will stay on for 5 minutes or so and slowly fades out. Does anyone know a cheap fix for this problem? it looks like Billmorgan spent $130 to fix his, but to be honest with you i'll never spend that much money to fix my Lie-o-meter and compass that works half the time. I can think of much better thins to spend that much on for my truck elsewhere. Anyone?
#159
07-29-2010, 04:07 PM
okay guys. after installing my cab lights, i figured i would take a look at my overhead console to see if i could bring it back to life. I followed the instructions in the first few posts of this thread, but my symptoms were exactly as described above. Everything was intact upon inspection of the circuit board and when i press on the screen really hard, it allows me to see the display for a second or two and then sometimes it will stay on for 5 minutes or so and slowly fades out. Does anyone know a cheap fix for this problem? it looks like Billmorgan spent $130 to fix his, but to be honest with you i'll never spend that much money to fix my Lie-o-meter and compass that works half the time. I can think of much better thins to spend that much on for my truck elsewhere. Anyone?
#161
07-31-2010, 11:02 PM
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Yes it is real hard to see if it is bad or not. I have a set of head mag. glasses i use just to see it. I am going to take mine back off and install all new ones. Just can't trust the old resisters to stay on and working. So i will just replace them all and know that it is solderd on good.
#162
08-04-2010, 01:11 PM
OK, I got the console down & out, and found what I expected, one of the chips was not soldered very well and it popped off as soon as I tried to wiggle it. The rest of 'em seem ok.
That said, how do I resolder these things? I was expecting little bitty pins sticking through the board. No such luck, they look like maybe the whole end solders down. Back side of the board has an area of solder for each end of the chips.
I read a few more of these posts indicating that these things are resistors and can be replaced with the cylindrical type from Radio Shack. Comments?
Thanks for the Help
That said, how do I resolder these things? I was expecting little bitty pins sticking through the board. No such luck, they look like maybe the whole end solders down. Back side of the board has an area of solder for each end of the chips.
I read a few more of these posts indicating that these things are resistors and can be replaced with the cylindrical type from Radio Shack. Comments?
Thanks for the Help
#164
08-31-2010, 02:53 PM
i have a 2003 F-350 6.0
I'm attempting to fix my overhead console the way you guys have explained here, however, when it comes to taking the overhead console down, you say to just pull it downward and it will just pop off? I pulled on mine and it doesn’t really seem to give. The entire ceiling seems to be pretty well attached. Any advice, pictures or hidden tabs that I should know about or should I just pull harder?
Thanks!
I'm attempting to fix my overhead console the way you guys have explained here, however, when it comes to taking the overhead console down, you say to just pull it downward and it will just pop off? I pulled on mine and it doesn’t really seem to give. The entire ceiling seems to be pretty well attached. Any advice, pictures or hidden tabs that I should know about or should I just pull harder?
Thanks!
