Problem: The actuator rod is old and gummed up, and when the weather gets cold it's almost impossible to turn the key all the way to START. Turning to RUN is sticky, but turning to START feels like i'm going to break something. Didn't really want to replace the ignition switch and or the actuator rod, or just clean the gunk out of the rod, seems like quite a task to get to it and then get everything put back in place. So I just added a simple push button. It still requires the key to be put in and turned to the RUN position for this to work. Once in RUN, hold down the momentary switch (push button) until the engine fires up, and then release. To figure this out I did some looking around the web and in the Haynes Manual for my truck + looked at the inside of the STARTER switch at autozone. Nice little labels like BATT and ST and A1 and A2 + I1 and I2. Battery, Accessory, Ignition, etc. There are also diagrams on the web and in Hanes manual that tell which color wires go to which "pin" on the switch.

I just bought a $10, 20amp momentary push button, some 14 gauge wire, and some wire splicers. On the 89 f150 there are two yellow wires coming from the ignition switch. Also, there are several other wires of different colors coming out of the switch as well.. You can see all these if you lay down on your back on the floor board and look under the steering column
you can see the switch on top of the column. You'll have to unwrap all the old plastic and tape to get at the wires.

Caution, on an 89, this stuff is old and nasty! If you are not careful this will all crumble into dust and fall in your face. Also, glue on the tape is like tar at this point in time. It should come off pretty easy.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR WIRING IN PUSH BUTTON TO STARTER SWITCH:

This is just what worked for me (so far), but if you want to try it, do so at your own risk!!! I made sure all my connections were tight and then went the extra mile using electrical tape to cover all exposed wire even on the back of the push button. If this connection fails, and the two wires we're working with short into each other it will activate the starter for as long as they are shorted together. Since there are 12 volts running through this circut if it shorts into anything else, the result could be very bad, and fry who knows what!

First, Disconnect your battery before starting any of this.

Second, locate one of the large yellow wires coming from the ignition switch. Either of these are hot all the time!

Then locate a smaller Red with a Lt Blue Stripe wire. This could be faded with time, and colors may not look exact.

This wire is smaller than the others. It goes to the "START" on the ignition switch. Not to be confused with the actual lock switch with the key. All this is in the dash on top of the column.

Using the splicers, and the push button + two lengths of aprox 14-16 guage wire, make a circut between the yellow wire and the red with blue stripe wire with the push button switch in between.

So, splice from yellow wire to one post on the push button, then splice from the red with light blue stripe wire to the other end of the switch. Basicly this will be the same as connecting the yellow and red with blue stripe wire together, except the switch will allow a "momentary" connection of these two wires, closing the circut and running the starter relay for as long as the button is held down.

This is pretty much what the IGNITION Switch does when you crank the key lock all the way to the START position.

I'm no pro. I just like to tinker with things and fix my truck. Still trying to get the acceleration a little smoother. Seems like it hesitates during acceleration sometimes. Already replaced, spark plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, coil that the dist cap plugs into, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter and other things not necessarily related. Need to clean all the throttle parts and sensors. Let me know if the "push button" start sounds ok, and if you all have any ideas about the acceleration. What really erks me about this truck is the fuel gauge does not work. So, I guess I'll need to drop the tank and either clean or replace the in-tank pump and level sensor gizmo. I didn't see a blown fuse for the dual tank switch, which by the way stays on the front selection, as when I bought the truck the rear tank was not even hooked up. Until I figure out why the gauge does not work, that's the way the rear tank will stay. :-) Thanks All!! :-) Any feedback or comments are welcome! :-)