The best way to go if you want "little" expense is to stay stock. First step is the shop manual for your truck. Second is one or more local parts places, preferable with people not afraid to look in the old paper catalogs.

Then you can go through the steering and suspension one item at a time. On the steering, check for loosness in kingpins / steering knuckles, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, drag link, and steering box. Get a helper to turn the wheel when you check things, the manual describes how and has some illustrations. Nothing is complicated, but sometimes you do need some brute force. On the suspension, look for a spring shop that can build up springs. Good springs can improve ride and handling. replace spring pins and bushings also when changing speings. Do not forget shocks, get good ones. Also inspect spring mounts, spring perches, and shackles. Cracks from years of fatigue and thin areas from rust can let these deflect too much and give squirlly handling.

But the biggest thing to keep in mind is that these trucks are over 50 years old and were designed as work vehicles to suit the expectations of that time. Steering will be somewhat slow (but fairly precise if everything is good and tight). you will feel just about every irregularity in the road, especially when you are empty (Loading things up to about 50% of load capacity really smooths things out). They will tend to want to go wide in turns, and you will have to crank the wheel way more than your late model car or truck when parking (normal in the non power steering era). And you will have to drive conservatively. The stock brakes actually work pretty well if you keep them adjusted and in good condition. You must have to have a strong leg and be familiar with your stopping distance. Avoid cheap brake linings and also those that claim very long life. Keeping all of this in mind is not a big deal after living with one of these for a while, and you can have fun and be safe at the same time.