Your welcome Bill. I'm no expert, but I'm happy to share what little I've learned about burning SVO... As far as good info goes, Frybrid is by far the best source of knowledge. Check out this link and read all the 'blue tabs' near the top of the page and you'll see just about everything ya need to know!
Frybrid Vegetable Oil Fuel Systems -- Theory of Vegetable Oil Conversion

As far as an 'actual parts list', I can't help with your OBS - since I'm not intimately familiar with the plumbing, fittings, etc on that engine. The later 7.3's have a different fuel system (deadheaded) which makes the conversion a little different - and quite a bit more expensive. I can try to help you understand whats going on and explain the components.

Basically, you'll have (2) fuel systems - one for diesel and one for VO. The only alteration to the diesel system will be adding 3way valves before the factory fuel pump and after the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) - more on that later... Aluminum tends to be the best material for VO tank since it is relatively inexpensive and does not 'react' with VO. Ideally, we don't wanna heat the whole VO tank (although most VO 'kits' on the market do this ) - this causes the oil to polymerize more rapidly. The Hot Fox heated pick-up is basically a pick-up tube wrapped in tubing that carries hot coolant. What we've done on custom tanks is create a baffle of sorts around the Hot Fox to try and isolate the heat in that part of the tank - see the Frybrid In-Tank HE (by FAR the most efficient design out there - not available w/o buying full system...).

From the VO tank going forward, TIH is the preferred option for fuel lines. For this we use 3/8" alum 'aircraft tubing' (~$1/ft from mcmaster.com) that runs inside 3/4" heater hose. To do this, for each 'end' we use a 1/2" black iron or brass (NOT galvanized) tee with hose barbs for the heater hose 90* apart and a modified 3/8" compression fitting on the 3rd side. The tubing runs all the way thru hose and tee's and the comp. fittings seal the coolant.

Alot of folks like to run coolant heated filters like those made by Racor and Fleetgaurd. Water separation is NOT IMPORTANT for this filter since they will not remove water from WVO anyway. You do need at least a 10mic filter that works on the vacuum-side of the pump for your application. I use a spin-on filter (pressure-side for my truck) and have it 'wrapped' with 3/8" copper tubing with coolant running thru it. This insures the oil is hot enough to flow thru the filter. The more TIH you can get before the filter the better - ya want HOT oil to get the most life from your filters.

Run more TIH up to the engine compartment and terminate it at a 16plate FPHE. I have mine mounted on the firewall. I place the TIH 'tee' directly on the FPHE to minimize hose and fittings (chances for leaks...). This is also a good place to put a valve on the coolant supply - in case you'll be driving on diesel for any length of time. Ya don't wanna 'cook' the VO in system while driving on diesel (ie, ran out of VO on a roadtrip). You'll see I have a valve on fuel-side as well - thats prolly not needed on OBS system.


After the FPHE and between the factory filter and fuel pump, you'll install a 3way switching valve. The industry standard are Hydraforce valves that are commonly used in all sorts of hydraulic applications. They are very simple spool valves that are 'switched' using an electromagnet. The 'out' from valve will go to the fuel pump and one 'in' will be diesel and the other 'in' will be VO. This is how you select which fuel goes into the engine.

Then, after the FPR you'll add a 2nd 3way valve. This valve will select what tank you send the 'return' fuel to. Like I mentioned before, we want to return to the VO tank for a bit after switching back to diesel so we don't send VO in the lines and the heads back to the diesel tank.

Ok, if your still with me - here's a little twist! By adding a 3rd 3way valve on the return to the VO tank, we can 'loop' the return back to the supply valve. So when we are running on VO and heating the fuel all the way from the tank to the engine - we don't 'waste' that heat by dumping it back into the VO tank. By sending it back thru the engine, we are only pulling the fuel we BURN from the tank. This makes the VO MUCH HOTTER, since the flow rate thru all our heating components is reduced and we get the benefit of additional heat picked up as the fuel passes thru the HOT heads!!

I also use a Mercedes aux. coolant pump to insure adequate coolant flow thru VO loop. I found the coooold-natured PSD makes very little heat at idle/no-load and my VO temps would fall drastically in stop and go traffic or even just puttering around town - especially in cold weather.

I realize this is not quite a 'How To' - but hopefully it'll give ya a baseline to understand a little more about 'The Right Way' ( sorry Dave!) to run a PSD on nearly-free fuel.

To buy a system or DIY. To be 100% honest, I think the Frybrid system is a great deal for the $$$. First of all, it WILL WORK - no guessing or 'hoping'. It also comes with that 'exclusive' in-tank HE that IMHO is truly worth the cost of the kit. Yes, there are alot of complaints about customer service - but they are all about people GETTING their stuff in a 'promised' amount of time. I have never met anyone who wasn't satisfied with the way the system performed. The bottom line is - YOU WILL GET YOUR MONEY BACK, no matter how much you spend. The more ya drive, the faster ROI will be. My philosophy is DO IT RIGHT - ONE TIME, and never even tinker with it again. I believe by the time ya do that DIY, ya coulda just bought the system that came with the highest quality hoses, clamps, etc and had the automation and 'forgot to purge' features of FB kit. Its not that I like to promote anyone, but I have seen ALL of the so-called competition - and they look like middle-school science projects by comparison!

Filtration - I have filtered 1000's of gallons of WVO by simple heat & settle, then pumping thru FUEL filters (water filters are not for filtering fuel ). I try to 'pre-settle' the oil for as long as possible, pull the good stuff off the top or drain the gunk off the bottom, then heat the oil to 110-120* and let it 'settle' for 24-48hrs. Drain a couple gals off the bottom and test a sample for water - if its dry, everything above it will be too! From there, I used a 10mic goldenrod-type filter followed by a 2mic BioTek particulate filter. I used a modified water heater for this, not quite as complicated as the 'Frybrid Still', but same idea. Since the water heater is a pressure vessel, I used compressed air to push the oil thru filters and into trucks or clean storage - much better than all but the most expensive pumps!!

I'm currently using a gravity-fed, open-bowl type centrifuge. I think Simple Centrifuge and their 'feed cone' design is the best option. I would not use the 'pressure feed'-type CF like the Diesel Craft options. The biggest advantage of CF is TIME. For me working out of town, I could only dewater/filter 35ish gals in 48hrs when I was home. Now I can filter 8-10gals/hr and even though I have a 2mic filter after CF - it lasts nearly forever.

As far as sources, consider churches, schools, nursing homes, hospitals, Elks Lodges (etc), VFW, Knights of Columbus - and most importantly FAIRS and FESTIVALS (thats where the best oil comes from - and when your exhaust smells like funnel cakes, life is truly good!

Good luck and keep us posted!!!

Btw, don't send money - just set aside a little clean oil for when I make it to your part of the world! Lol.