Air pump delete
 

I was wondering if anyone had a Napa # for the shorter belt that is required to delete the air pump. The truck is a 97 250 with a 460. Also is there any other cheap external mods to make more power. I am installing headers and already have a cold air intake. And i don't want to put a cam in yet.

I was thinking of removing my AIR injection pump.

You may have to use a peice of string to measure for the belt , don't know much about 460s . Somethings we do to the SB is advance the timing a few deg , underdrive pulleys , E fans , change rocker arm ratio.....Lew

Air pump delete won't get you any power sorry, and if you don't also remove all the plumbing that was attached to it and plug where it attached to the exhaust you may create other problems. As stated timing advance and a full exhaust upgrade including headers is always good for some gains on these trucks.

I am installing L&L headers with plugs on them where it's suppost to go in. Also on the underdrive pulleys does this affect your AC or your cooling cause this truck likes to get hot in the summer and i don't want my AC to suck.

I have been using underdrive pulleys for years & never had a problem with anything...

The problem is that big 460 takes a little more to cool than a sb. I think ford might have used the same radiator and it needs a bigger one. did you have cooling issues in the summer especially with ac on or idleing before the pulleys?

Yeah make sure your radiator is flowing good & no clogs, check the fan clutch to , it may not be pulling enough air . When i did the underdrive pulleys on it made no difference to the cooling , never gets hot , i have an E fan to ....Lew

I'll have to check that but we have had this truck since it was new and as far as i can recall we have always had this problem.

I wasnt thinking of removing it for peformance gains, as you probably remember about my SPARK KNOCK problem, I was looking over the fuel Injection site and it said something about the a faulty AIR INJECTION SYSTEM could cause it.

I have been ALL OVER THIS ENGINE looking for vacuum leaks and cannot find one. still no codes and I even RECHECKED the timing again and again. I did find one problem, the idel was to high. I figured it cant hurt to turn it down by the idle screw and it actually did some good, some of the LAG in it went away. I say LAG meaning the truck felt like something holding it back. Now I dont think it fixed it completely, it still dont run as strong as I think it should but better. I am thinking the Cable that goes from the throttle body to the tranny may also be a little out of adjustment and causing the tranny to shift to quickly and causing a load for the gear it should be and causing the spark knock. I have not had the opprotunityto check that, my son in law is driving the truck:-roll

cant help with the issue on the fuel but for the easy performance upgrades cut the airhorns off the intake tubes

I made my own air intake that illiminated that whole plastic piece completley.

what air horn are u talking about? the one that goes up over the radiator like a snorkle

if you follow the two tubes that go from the air box to the throttle body there is a plastic pieces it looks like a set of binoculars. Its there to quiet down noise a little and provide i connection for the IAC, but to quiet down the noise it creates a venturi (downsizes pipe diameter) so by replacing it with a bigger constant diameter tube you gain some power. everyone fixes it their own way from a connecting tube to repiping it with pvc.

sorry bout the thread-jacking

its the plastic piece that looks like bioculars on the intake tubes between the airbox and throttle body. Its only there to quiet down the intake and give a place to hook up the iac. lose it and gain a little power

and i disconnected my AIR system- no problems