EBPV removal
 

Hey guys I was doing a serch on the procedures to remove the EBPV but have had no luck on finding, does anyone no the site that has it. Thanks

Here's a write up for the obs powerstrokes. You might be able to use it. Good luck

9497faq/tipstricks/gutebpv.php3

Unlucky,

PM me with you e-mail and ai'll send you instructions for the gutting.

You can get a Garret EBPV housing with no valve or shaft hole from an on line vendor. I gutted mine at first and over time the plug fell out.
I then went with the Garrett non-EBPV housing.

You can get a Garret EBPV housing with no valve or shaft hole from an on line vendor. I gutted mine at first and over time the plug fell out.
I then went with the Garrett non-EBPV housing.[/QUOTE]

I did a seach for that item and couldnt find is there a site or is it a special item.If there is a chance it could fall out I rather go with a new one where there is no chance of that.

Go HERE and scroll down to the bottom of the page for the gutless housing.

That write up works great. The only thing that needs to be added to make it Superduty sepcific is the cold side CAC tube needs to be removed for easier access to the housing, and there are seven mount bolts instead of four. The valve is removed in exactly the same way.

Also, an $.88 freeze plug is a better value than a $150 housing, considering they do the exact same thing. The trick is to use a slightly oversized freeze plug (20mm works perfectly) and reinstall the snap ring over it. Mine's been that way for years, never a problem.

I agree Cookie, the instructions I sent Unlucky are for the updated 2000-2003 EBPV gutting, and when the turbo is off the truck already when other goodies were installed.

In my case, a 20mm plug wasn't available and went with a 19mm, BAD. Blew it right out the exhaust after a few months.....had a mysterious air leak under the hood....hahaha.

If you check out that housing link, the housing it is actually milled out about another 1/4" - 3/8" over the stock opening.

Yeah, I noticed that. The alignment flange for the downpipe is gone....might make that a hassle, other than that, more flow is always better. I'm just not sure if there is $150 worth of more flow there.

I think if I needed a turbo that big to control some huge injectors I would also need that housing, but with stock injectors gutting it is working fine for me.

Is GDS using a center section out of a larger than a -38 series turbo, or do they machine the -38 for the larger shaft?

Don't know much about their turbos other then what's on their site. I know of one PSD locally running one.

Perhaps drop GDS a line and see what they say on the shaft.
Good info. to know.

I'm curious about this mod, what did you do with the actuator rod assembly? Do you just disconnect it and leave it hanging there? Thanks for all the great info guys, I just love tinkering with this truck! Aloha.

There are several options.

If you leave it hanging it will eventually leak, but if you unthread the end and slide a piece of 3/8" tubing over the shaft and then screw the end back on it will hold it up and won't leak....as long as you remember to unplug the actuator at the base of the turbo so that it won't cycle. Another option is to cut the rod off and plug the hole. You can also replace the pedestal with one that doesn't have the actuator built in.

Dealer told me that my ebpv actuator rod was broken and 1100.bucks to fix. As I understand yall here,just cut it off and plug w/20mm freeze plug? What about the sensor and pipe down below? Hope to save a bundle right here!

Here's how I did mine.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2372912020083164471DhZeNS

I didn't use a freeze plug, just reinstalled the cap with the original snap ring. Used a threaded pipe plug and tapped the hole where the actuator rod was.
Simple and cheap.

:-wink gregbob,thanks. good pics of the process. that's exactly what I needed!

after you remove the valve and plug the pedestial with a 1/4npt should you hook back up the wires to the plug on the pedestial?