smog pump delete
 

I am in the process of rebuilding my 5.8 and i want to get rid of my smog pump and i want to know if i can get rid of all the hoses that come from it and snake all over the place. and also dose any one make plugs for the back of the heads or do i make my own?

smog pump delete
 

ttt

smog pump delete
 

Why? It won't make the engine run any better, and probably worse. Keep it running right and it'll be more reliable and easier to diagnose.

smog pump delete
 

Well my pump is coming off as it is useless on my truck. The pump isn't hooked up the the cats as I run longtubes, that Smog pipe on the back of the heads is gone too.

Ford sells those head plugs, do a search on here for them that I posted up on them. I have them on my truck as my Smog pipe rusted out.

The check valves are gone also.

The belt needs to be ~5-10" shorter

smog pump delete
 

did you get rid of all the hoses that run all over the place?.
also what do you guys think of using the smog pump as a on board compressor. would it work???

smog pump delete
 

I will be getting rid of those vac lines pretty soon. Only thing that is going to stay is the EGR system w/ vac line and the fuel pressure regulator vac line.

The others go to the TAD/TAB solenoids which are useless as the smog piping and check valves are gone. I will leave the solenoids and wiring to them to avoid a CEL/SES/MIL light...whatever you call them.

Smog pump just pulls air through it to the other stuff, not really a compressor more like a small sealed fan

smog pump delete
 

Just did the same on my F350 crew dually with 7.5L.
I just snipped the air tubes and welded them shut removed the smog pump and the Cat. ( I have a 5 speed and with out the cat it sounded like a tank firing every time I pushed in the clutch). The extra air from the air injection tubes was causing this.
The truck runs a lot better now and is even using less gas.
I removed all the extra smog junk and it looks better under the hood too. Installed 3 inch flowmaster system and all is well. I now get about 400 miles out of full thanks. Not bad for a giant warhorse.

smog pump delete
 

Hey not bad for that giant! Did you remove that "Folgers" can from under the hood also?

smog pump delete
 

so you got rid of the air pump and all the 5/8'' rubber hoses that were attached to it? what about the mess of hoses and valves that sit above the driverside fuel rail did you get rid of those too??

smog pump delete
 

Air pump is gone. Rubber hoses to the cats are gone. Hoses to air tube on heads is gone.

I am in the process of sorting out the vac mess.

You need the "Folgers Can" as that supplies vac to the EVR valve by the TAD/TAB solenoids next to the coil. The TAD/TAB are for those check valves by the back of the heads and the one by the air pump.

The EVR regulates the EGR valve so that's really the only part that needs to stay.

Vac runs from the intake to the "Folgers Can" then to the EVR then to the EGR.

smog pump delete
 

The "Folgers Can" is gone too, my year model truck has kind of a oval shaped can that controls the EVR. The Folgers can on mine was justa muffler for the extra air. since the pump is gone this was no longer needed. the fuel rail on my 460 is on the passenger side and all the extra 5/8 hoses are off and no longer needed. I Hooked it to the sunmachine in my shop (military)
and no codes or wrong readings. The warhorse really runs better and is alot quiter(unless you put the pedal to the metal).
The truck sports-3 inch flowmaster dual exhaust, free flow heads and a K&N Fip kitt. Its been a good truck if you don't mind having the manual transmission rebuild every 75000 miles(2nd and 3rd gear syncros in fords are crap)
I Just ordered a Center Console out of a 2003 Super Duty.(e-bay $69 plus shipping) Haven't received it yet. Will post when I get it and remove the front center folding seat and put in the console.

smog pump delete
 

Ditch the smog pump, it doesn't make the engine run any better, it just makes the cats work better and sucks HP.

It won't work for onboard air because it is high volume, low pressure, it would never build the pressure you would want (the A/C compressor, on the other hand)

EGR doesn't make your motor run any better either. I am experimenting in removing that on the truck. It shouldn't cause any problems (it doesn't on a mustang) and would only throw a code... but when I left the vacuum line disconnected (vaccum leak) it did throw the check engine light. I will pull it and plug it to make sure it doesn't throw the light. Once you replace the EGR with a blockoff plate (better mileage, cleaner intake) then pull the coolent lines off the intake and get a little better HP! (I have done this to all my mustangs, but just bought the truck last weekend and haven't gotten to it yet).

Hope it helps.

smog pump delete
 

EGR does have a benefit of lowering exhaust temps and reducing pinging. I removed mine off my truck just because I was going to replace it like a good boy but twisted the exhaust tube off and also broke off of the exhaust manifold. So now I dont have an EGR and my Check engine light is on all the time. Just cant wait until the thing burns out.

smog pump delete
 

Lowering exhaust temps is the equivalent of lowering HP, I rather avoid that. And you shouldn't need your EGR to reduce pinging, as you shouldn't have much of a pinging problem at part throttle, which is the only time the EGR is active.

As far as the light issue, There should be a way to disconnect the EGR without getting the Check engine light. It is easily done with the EEC-IV systems on a mustang, Has anyone removed their EGR and not had a check engine light (I presumed my light came on because I had a vacuum leak (I pulled the vaccum line to the EGR while cleaning the motor and forgot to reconnect it).

smog pump delete
 

The check engine light comes on because the EVP sensor is out of range because it is not hooked up. The ECM leans out fuel mixture when it thinks the valve is opening, If the ECM sees the valve opening, but isnt hooked up you will get a ping or hesitation.

smog pump delete
 

But, the whenever the EGR comes on, the ECM is in closed loop, so it is controling the mixture based on the O2 senser. If the EGR doesn't open, and it goes lean, it will immediately adjust because the O2 sensor says it is lean.

With my mustangs, I have removed or disconnected the EGRs on all of them, and have no lean issues. I have dyno'ed one of them with a wide band O2 hooked up, and would have noticed it lean out when warming up the car before the run (constant low throttle warmup).

smog pump delete
 

To avoid the CEL from removing the EGR, mount your EGR valve on the fender well and run the wiring and the vacuum to it. The computer does not know if it is flowing exhaust gas or not, just if its plugged in. Like stated above, the O2 sensor will compensate for a lean or rich condition. That is an afterthought of introducing exhaust gases in the combustion chamber.

If you want the egr system gone completely, you will have to put up with the CEL or disconnect the bulb.

smog pump delete
 

You are better off removing the vacuum line and sticking a bolt in it, Then the ECM thinks the vavle is closed and wont adjust timing and mixture. I have had bad pinging and drivabiltity because of this

95 f-350 460
 

Did you have any luck with the truck? I have a 95 f-350 460 EFI , I'm in the process of installing a reman. mrt. and would like to remove as much of the smog ( airpump, egr, etc. etc.}with out effecting the proformance. Thanks for your time.

It's too bad i couldn't remove my smog stuff and cats too...but up here in Canada we have emission tests every other year...and i have another 7 years to wait :(

or you can just buy this kit to properly get rid of your EGR

http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=9

Thank you Trickedout420 for the link...i could use the eliminator until test time...remove it for the test then reinstall after.

Jim

how about that black plastic small car battery sized thing on the passenger side inner fender....with the vacuum lines going in - out of it?.....what is that thing????....and can I just plug all the lines and be OK?...the previous owner took off the cat and the air pump is pumping to atmosphere. Its a 7.5 liter...but the small blocks have this clutter too.

In fact guys you can bypass all of the emissions solenoids also by using 75ohm-10 watt resistors on each of the solenoids...

that is the proper way to do it , if you leave it where the cel is on you will have driveabilty issues due to the computer being in limp mode . so you have to have the bypass connector deals like above or you need to have a tune that turns off the functions inside the pcm . great link btw trickedout420

The thing on the passenger side is probably the carbon canister your looking at. It takes gas fumes and burns off the fumes instead of releasing them into the atmosphere.

Jrock....whats that about the resistors?????...can you fill in some details on that?...I dont have a clue what that means and need to do something w/ this 94 460...thanks

i thought about doing the resistor trick too but i wasnt sure if it would work. what about on a 96 f150 with a 302. for like the knock sensor and the dpfe sensor and stuff lik that

Why do you want to eliminate the knock sensor? 96 is going to be more tricky in all respects since it is OBD-II and it monitors everything a lot closer.

Sounds like this is a pretty popular issue, Maybe a few of our members with expereince should write an article about it.

That way we have something to point new users too when they ask.

This is something i'm interested in also. Haveing issues with mine being all cut up, and my truck not performing the way it should due to the previous owners stupidity.

im pretty sure its my knock sensor that is retarding my timing and making ny truck lose horsepower because when i take off in first and get going and the shift it into second its lame but when the rpms hit 2000 and up it will put you back in the seat. you can actually feel it and i dont know why its doing that

That's just the 302's powerband. My truck is the same way, starts to make decent power above 2000 rpm. You can unplug it if you want, just to see if there is any difference, but I don't think there is any way to just bypass it entirely (probably not a good idea either if it still works and is keeping the engine from pinging).

does anyone know what size belt i need for a 91 300 I6 if i take the smog pump off?

Good thread, I've got an 88 F250 460, I'm doing research in order to remove all the smog crap, I've already made my cat "Free Flow" 8D I'm in the process of getting all the air lines disconnected from the manifolds, after that all the other hoses and egr is coming off..

sounds good keep me poasted!!!

Well I removed all the smog crap from my 460, I gained about 2mpg.. I still need to measure and get the correct size belt so I can remove the smog pump, there's nothing hooked to it but I'd like to remove it... Does anyone have a part # for the correct size belt??? The truck runs great...
Also I removed the EGR and as suggested in post # 21 I installed the Original EGR Eliminator $20.00 from http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=9 ... Worked as described no CEL

good thread...im about to do the same thing to my 91 250 with 5.8. anybody got any pics? just put a big red "X" on all the crap that i can throw in the garbage. lol. im just about to yank everything attached to that pump and all related stuff.

Removing the smog pump will gain you nothing and could lead to a lean condition. I know this first hand, i took out mine some months ago because of the lack of spare parts (can't find a replacement thermactor in Venezuela), and there were absolutely no gains, neither in mileage nor power. The result could be different on other engines, mine's a 302.

lol i got a good air pump i can sell u.... im going to trash mine when i get some long tubes....

I wish I would of done before and after pics but I didn't think of it, I will take some pics of the pile of crap I have left over.. I also found something really cool located on the passenger side of my engine believe it or not there's a valve cover down there :)
Just to make sure you know what your getting into be prepaired to remove your exhaust manifolds so you can plug/weld the air tube holes mine were located on the fire wall side of the manifold... The main reason I did mine I was removing the exhaust manifolds to replace my gaskets and I broke a couple of the air tube fittings, but I ended up getting better gas mileage and I can actually SEE my engine now.... So I'm very pleased...