I am in the process of rebuilding my 5.8 and i want to get rid of my smog pump and i want to know if i can get rid of all the hoses that come from it and snake all over the place. and also dose any one make plugs for the back of the heads or do i make my own?
I will be getting rid of those vac lines pretty soon. Only thing that is going to stay is the EGR system w/ vac line and the fuel pressure regulator vac line.
The others go to the TAD/TAB solenoids which are useless as the smog piping and check valves are gone. I will leave the solenoids and wiring to them to avoid a CEL/SES/MIL light...whatever you call them.
Smog pump just pulls air through it to the other stuff, not really a compressor more like a small sealed fan
Just did the same on my F350 crew dually with 7.5L.
I just snipped the air tubes and welded them shut removed the smog pump and the Cat. ( I have a 5 speed and with out the cat it sounded like a tank firing every time I pushed in the clutch). The extra air from the air injection tubes was causing this.
The truck runs a lot better now and is even using less gas.
I removed all the extra smog junk and it looks better under the hood too. Installed 3 inch flowmaster system and all is well. I now get about 400 miles out of full thanks. Not bad for a giant warhorse.
The "Folgers Can" is gone too, my year model truck has kind of a oval shaped can that controls the EVR. The Folgers can on mine was justa muffler for the extra air. since the pump is gone this was no longer needed. the fuel rail on my 460 is on the passenger side and all the extra 5/8 hoses are off and no longer needed. I Hooked it to the sunmachine in my shop (military)
and no codes or wrong readings. The warhorse really runs better and is alot quiter(unless you put the pedal to the metal).
The truck sports-3 inch flowmaster dual exhaust, free flow heads and a K&N Fip kitt. Its been a good truck if you don't mind having the manual transmission rebuild every 75000 miles(2nd and 3rd gear syncros in fords are crap)
I Just ordered a Center Console out of a 2003 Super Duty.(e-bay $69 plus shipping) Haven't received it yet. Will post when I get it and remove the front center folding seat and put in the console.
Ditch the smog pump, it doesn't make the engine run any better, it just makes the cats work better and sucks HP.
It won't work for onboard air because it is high volume, low pressure, it would never build the pressure you would want (the A/C compressor, on the other hand)
EGR doesn't make your motor run any better either. I am experimenting in removing that on the truck. It shouldn't cause any problems (it doesn't on a mustang) and would only throw a code... but when I left the vacuum line disconnected (vaccum leak) it did throw the check engine light. I will pull it and plug it to make sure it doesn't throw the light. Once you replace the EGR with a blockoff plate (better mileage, cleaner intake) then pull the coolent lines off the intake and get a little better HP! (I have done this to all my mustangs, but just bought the truck last weekend and haven't gotten to it yet).
EGR does have a benefit of lowering exhaust temps and reducing pinging. I removed mine off my truck just because I was going to replace it like a good boy but twisted the exhaust tube off and also broke off of the exhaust manifold. So now I dont have an EGR and my Check engine light is on all the time. Just cant wait until the thing burns out.
Lowering exhaust temps is the equivalent of lowering HP, I rather avoid that. And you shouldn't need your EGR to reduce pinging, as you shouldn't have much of a pinging problem at part throttle, which is the only time the EGR is active.
As far as the light issue, There should be a way to disconnect the EGR without getting the Check engine light. It is easily done with the EEC-IV systems on a mustang, Has anyone removed their EGR and not had a check engine light (I presumed my light came on because I had a vacuum leak (I pulled the vaccum line to the EGR while cleaning the motor and forgot to reconnect it).
The check engine light comes on because the EVP sensor is out of range because it is not hooked up. The ECM leans out fuel mixture when it thinks the valve is opening, If the ECM sees the valve opening, but isnt hooked up you will get a ping or hesitation.