Speedo recalibration
 

Hi all,
My truck has 315/75 R16 rubber fitted and so the speedo is out,
enough to get fined.:-arrgh
It also makes keeping an eye on fuel consumption difficult.
Is there a way to recalibrate the speedo or do I need to buy one of these?
TruSpeed™ Speed Sensor Recalibrator · Superlift · www.superlift.com

There isn't a way to correct the speedo on theses trucks. (newer ones can get the speedo reprogrammed)

How much is your speedo out?

Enough to get fined, when the speedo says 100km the GPS says 112km.

U can recalibrate with AE which I have. Where do you live ??
Never mind I just saw the city of churches. No good to you
Might ask Reg if he has it

Brian,
Pardon my ignorance but what's AE?:o

This:
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

Adrian,
WOW what and great piece of equipment!!

Unfortunatley its a bit of overkill just to recalibrate the speedo.
I don't know if I would get enough use out of it to warrant the
cost and freight to Australia.

its well worth the money imo. has full diagnostic provisions, data logging and much more. Its the first thing I get out when i got a problem with the truck. Saves some yobbo charging you $100 bucks an hour and changing parts will nilly. Get ya data, post your problem on FTE and problem solved.

Analogue speedo recalibration:
1) check GPS and indicated speed difference at 100kmh;
2) remove insturment binnacle cowl;
3) carefully remove speedo needle rest pin (pull gently with needle nosed pliers);
4) let needle come to it resting position, note position;
5) using a lifting fork, gently level the speedo needleaway from the cluster - without too much effort the needle will come off;
6) refit the needle to a new position to obtain the speed differential correction as noted in 1) above, the needle just presses on;
7) re-fit cowl & binnacle cover;
8) next time you're on the highway check the speed differential again, if necessary repeat the above until you have 100kmh spot on.

If you are running larger than stock wheels the above will mean that your speedo will proportionally read UNDER your GPS/actual speed below 100kmh.

If my memory serves me correctly we dont have a instrument cowl. Its all one bloody big piece and a absolute PIA to get off

Simon,
Mate ifs that's the only solution then the AE suddenly sounds like
an attractive option.

Brian,
From my experience anything involving the dash of any vehicle is a PITA, and the neck and the back and, by the end, the head.
The dash has to be my least favourite place.

It's not that hard! Prize out the headlamp switch and unplug it, the entire cowl (including dash) unclips, once you get it started it is easy to unplug the 4WD loom, twist it over and stick it on the passenger seat. From there you can unclip the perspex instrument cover and access the gauge needles.
I've had this lot out countless times & replaced all the bulbs with LEDs cause then I figured that I wouldn't have to do it again.
The actual dash stays in situ.

Anyway, I have to take mine off again because one of the LEDs is flashing - why did I bother? So I'll take some pics of the operation and post them.

Bought the AE from RR, waiting for it to arrive.:)
How hard is it to recal the speedo with the AE?

easy. just go into tyre size and bump it a bit then go for a drive and check against your navigator gps speed. Im running 35's and I think a went up to 34 in AE and that got me within 2kph against the gps.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-question.html
there is a PDF link in post#4

Brian,
Once again many thanks for the info.:-X22

Brian,
Just curious what RPM are you getting on the alledged 100 kmph:)

Cheers,
Patchy

I did not pay attention to RPMs, not used to having a
tacho, I'll have to check that.
Are you wondering if the diff ratio has been changed?
:-wink

If the diff ratio has been changed it puts a different spin on things:)
My truck is stock standard and about 1800 rpm is 100 kmph

Cheers,
Patchy

Thanks.
There is no evidence that any work has been done on the diffs.
I will check the tacho next time I have the truck out for a run.:-X22

Why i ask i'm running simular tyre size you are, and to me, to be out by 12kmph seems to be alot to me if everthing is stock:-X0A6


Cheers,
Patchy

Oh Well, give it a run the open road
I still like to know what the rpm is:-partybud

Cheers,
Patchy

1800 Im about 105 Kph

At 1750 I am bang on 100kph, but I have a manual (.72 top gear, instead of .71 in the auto) and 275/70R18's (a little bit smaller than your 315/75R16's)

IIRC, changing the diff ratio in these won't correct your speedo, as it reads off the wheel speed sensors.

ABS ? ya mean.
Im going to change my diff ratio's,i think brian said we have 3.73 gears,not sure what the next lower ratio is 4.11 ? but that's where im going,dont like my trucks response and fuel consumption now that I have 35's on.

Yes, ABS sensors.

4.10 is the next ratio (it's just the pinion teeth number that change).
I don't have first hand experience, but doubt 4.10's will improve your fuel consumption.

Its gotta around town,open road @ 100kmh's prob not,i reckon ive gone up 3 ltr's per 100 since I went from stock rims and 31's to these 35's..

Im going to take these 35's off and stick my stock rims and tyre's back on and do a fuel consumption test,i'll let you know.

Atm im doing 18.5 ltrs in 80E and I drive it like an ol lady :-X15

just checked again. 1800 rpm is 108kph (70mph). And Im the same with the fuel when switching to 35's and 5" lift. I have gone from mid to high 15's per litre to mid to high 17's. 18's when Im dragging anything that looks at me }>

Bruva 4.10's is the next step. But i would do some research. Alot on Powerstroke Army say and dont do squat.

Thats what AE does with the tyre size calibration. It adjusts the sensors.

Well if it makes you feel any better, one of my mates averages 25l/100km on his 4.8 pootrol with 35's. How he can afford to run it around as his only vehicle I dunno.

I do know with my truck I can get eek about 12.5l/100km if I keep it under 2000rpms when cruising (up to about 110kmh). If I go over 2000, it quickly climbs into 14-15+ l/100km for hwy, so with 4.10's and spinning higher rpm's, I would expect it to be worse again. dunno :confused:
I am only running 33.5" road tires with a leveling kit in the front, and my engine is completely stock apart from a 4" turbo back straight pipe (yes, its f'n loud)

AE arived this morning :) along with AIH delete plug.

Busy weekend but I should find time to install the software
and hook it up to the truck to check it's all working OK.:D

Hopfully I will get time through the week to do the recal
and test it against the GPS.

Also need to track down what's caused the ABS warning light.:-X22

With the AE, you will be able to work out what sensor it is (either one at the front, or the one at the rear).

It will either be wiring, or the sensor itself. The wiring on the front two are quite exposed, and can break. The rear sensor often gets a lot of metal shavings thrown up from the crown wheel on the diff (which removing the sensor and wiping it down often fixes).

Best of luck :-X22

Some very useful info in this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eshooting.html
Also some useful pdf files here
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...ad.php?t=60797

I think I also need to buy the AE bundle from RR soon! :)

Thanks Brian, more useful info to assimilate.:-tap

I have spent much internet time trying to find the answer to this
question before resorting to asking it here, it make me feel dumb
asking.:-newbie

Where the hell is the socket for the AE interface to plug into?:-huh:-huh:-huh

I have spend ages looking under the dash around the steering column
where it's supposed to be and can't for the life of me see it.:-arrgh

Also , I am not reading any boost on the new gauge.
I will have to check the line is not pinched or kinked.

What should I be seeing on the gauge from idle to 1500RPM?

I haven't used the AE, but if it plugs into the IDS module like Ford's calibration tools, its under the dash.

Boost, you won't see much, unless the vehicle is
a. Above 1600rpm
b. Under load (i.e. the vehicle is actually moving, and you have the throttle pinned)

The IDS plug, sometimes called the OB2, is on the left side of the driver footwell, and is about the size of a 7 pin trailer socket, it usually has a plastic slip-on box cover so it is not immediately obvious it is a socket to plug into.

Simon,
Thanks.
I'll have another look tomorrow.:)