Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php)
-   1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum31/)
-   -   front wheel hub assembly (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1214832-front-wheel-hub-assembly.html)

tfdcapt 01-06-2013 11:33 AM

front wheel hub assembly
 
2001 Ford F350 4x4 single rear wheel needs front wheel bearings replaced. I have been told that these trucks have sealed bearing in the front hub assemble ant that I have to buy the whole hub. Is that true and if so where is the best place to get hubs. Thanks for the help

rare_f8 01-06-2013 12:04 PM

It's true.

Autozone sells them for fair coin at $184 each, Timken brand, 515020 (This fits late 99 to 2002)

Nicmike 01-06-2013 01:03 PM

Yep. I just consulted the 2001 SD bible on this, and it says the whole hub must be replaced if the bearings fail. I would only buy reputable brand name part on the hub.

srteach 01-06-2013 01:29 PM

I have purchased 2 units for my 2001 SD from rockauto.com. Best total prices I can find, even with shipping costs. I bought Timkin brand with ABS sensor. The bearing units are not designed to be serviced, no matter who makes them.

I recommend buying the ones with the ABS sensor even if you don't have ABS. You can then remove the sensor and grease the bearing. If you do, there is a fitting you can buy from Riff Raff Diesel: Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting that will let you service these non-serviceable bearings. I bought two of these fittings, even though they are only temporary use for me. I put them in, grease the bearings and take the fittings out.
The wheel studs are changeable, so if the ones on your truck are still useable, you can get the lesser cost bearing unit. That is what I did.

bdpotts 01-06-2013 01:44 PM

i replaced both of my front ones. the entire hub gets replaced. my advice would be to find an extra set of hands... it'll go faster.

HH60FE 01-06-2013 03:32 PM

One more thing. These hubs DONT come with the 4 hub studs. You'll have to remove them from the old units or get new ones, prolly just from Ford. Thats all.

Kdr358 01-06-2013 04:04 PM

I bought moog units that came with studs and the new Yellow O ring. Probably not the best move on my part but Im trusting its still a quality part.

Nicmike 01-06-2013 04:07 PM

Moog is not what they used to be....starting to source parts from China.

HH60FE 01-06-2013 05:25 PM

Hmmm, I'm gettin ready to order Moog ball joints.

srteach 01-06-2013 05:32 PM

The Timkin ones I purchased came with yellow oring, ABS sensor, mounting studs and wheel studs. I guess the brand is what will determine what comes with it.

tfdcapt 01-06-2013 06:11 PM

Thanks for all the info. Will look into getting timkin parts and doing the job myself instead of going to stealers hip. You guys on this website are great. I have saved a lot of money using info from here

Firefighter 1406 01-06-2013 06:17 PM

Also went with Timken from autozone at $184 a piece. 3 yr warranty. They aren't bad at all to replace. And they even came with new bolt studs where every other brand I have bought you had to swap them over from the old hub. Easy change. I say 30 min per side with out air tools. Or maybe I have replaced these way to many times. Count on a hour per side for the first time.

Poolguy601 01-06-2013 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406 (Post 12683339)
Also went with Timken from autozone at $184 a piece. 3 yr warranty. They aren't bad at all to replace. And they even came with new bolt studs where every other brand I have bought you had to swap them over from the old hub. Easy change. I say 30 min per side with out air tools. Or maybe I have replaced these way to many times. Count on a hour per side for the first time.

Did you need a puller to remove the hub and bearings?

Firefighter 1406 01-06-2013 09:18 PM

Nope. Remove the wheel, brakes, and front locking hubs. Snap ring and thrust washers behind locking hub and the 4 nuts behind where the front ujoints is and you are good to go. Should pull right out.

srteach 01-06-2013 09:19 PM


Originally Posted by Poolguy601 (Post 12684059)
Did you need a puller to remove the hub and bearings?

No. Bolts on the back of the bearing next to the axle shaft are what keeps the bearing attached, not friction.
  1. remove brake cylinder and disc
  2. take the 4x4 hub off,
  3. remove snap ring and two other spacers (remember how they are positioned)
  4. remove ABS sensor (if you have one)
  5. remove 4 nuts next to the axle shaft
  6. pull bearing off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:32 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands