1995 Ford F250 351 4WD Under Hood Fuse Box Diagram
 

My truck did not come with the diagram that shows what the fuses are for in the black box under the hood. Does anybody have any idea what fuses and relays go to where on a 1995 f250?
:-huh

Sorry for some reason I can not post a link to a photo.http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...lwithkey-1.jpghttp://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...lwithkey-1.jpghttp://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...lwithkey-1.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...lwithkey-1.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...lwithkey-1.jpg

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This should work for you:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Ed...-14_143712.jpg

Thanks a lot for posting this, I don't have a book so this is really handy!

Glad to see we could help you out.

Fuel Pump won't juice!
 

Hey guys,
Ive been havin a helluva time diagnosing why my fuel pump on my 97 F-250 HD gas will not work. The truck came with two tanks, but I eliminated the front tank 3 years ago (rotted and leaking), and replaced the rear tank/pump at the same time. Started by assuming, on bad advice, to replace the rear fuel pump yesterday.

Well, long story short, it still doesnt work. I then replaced the relay, but am still just getting a click instead of a humm, when cycling the key. Ive double checked the inertial switch on the passenger side kick panel, and thats depressed.

I figured I'd attach this post to this thread seeing as it was already discussing the fuse box in the engine compartment. Any ideas on where to go from here and how to properly test the relay box and fuel pump harness?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated
REW

First of all I take it you have an OBD-I EEC-IV system.
If so just ground pin #6 of the self-test plug, turn on the key and see if the fuel pumps run.
If they do not then go to the inertial switch on the passenger side kick panel and check for voltage with a load type test light. A volt meter will not work here as it will say there is voltage when there is not.

If the fuel pump do run when you ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key you may have a bad PCM Computer. But short pin #2 to pin #6 of the of the self-test plug, turn on the key and see if the fuel pumps still run.
If they do not then you have a ground problem coming from the body ground to pin #40 & #60 of the PCM Computer.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...agnostic_1.gif

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...edTestPlug.jpg

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Hello - what are the two wires that come out of the outboard end of the engine compartment fuse box? and on different subject - the fuel injectors are marked positive on one side- does the positive go to the red wires or the white pin 59 or tan pin 58?

No idea...pictures please.

The positive side of the injector goes to the red wire (supply). The negative side is pulsed to ground via the computer to turn it on/off.

It would help to know what year/model/engine/transmission truck you are working on.

Welcome to FTE!

Thanks so much - big help on the injector question.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...784f1d2bf.jpeg


Manual transmission

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...7b827fec2.jpeg

The yellow wire is the power to the fuse relay box.
Any other wires are not stock and have been added.

great thanks for the quick replies- truck is running great now with wire repair to fuel injectors

Updated
 

Well - it ran great for two days - even passed smog check - but seems to have fried ignition coil - which was replace last week due to no spark. Is there a good trouble shooting tree or existing thread for this symptom ?

How do you know it has a fried ignition coil?
Maybe you have a bad PIP sensor.

No spark last week so replaced ignition coil ( very hot to touch) and truck ran for two days - would be happy to check PIP -looking for info