Speicher ,, what is this code 51 from dash air bag light ???? was a 32 after changing clock spring ,,, beeping still there and light flashing the 51 code ,, any thoughts here????

Sorry been a little out of pocket, looks as though you've been getting plenty of good advise. ncranchero almost has you there. If you only have power at two points at the fuel selector switch, it appears the switch is bad. Remove the connector from the switch and jumper the Red/Yellow to Brown/White circuit for the rear tank or the Red/Yellow to the Red circuit for the front tank. Keep in mind you have to either cycle the key repeatly [PCM only runs the pump for approximately 5 seconds after keying to the run position], or put your ground jumper back in the self test connector as you have done to make it run continously. Make sure all other connectors are reinstalled, fuel pump, inertia switch, etc. Hopefully you will have power to pump this time. Make sure you do not power into the other three circuits on the other side of the switch, they should be smaller gauge wire for the gauge circuits. The 542 code you recieved is the fuel pump monitor circuit. As far as the beeping, are you still recieving 5 sets of 5 beeps? Code 51 is generated when the air bag module sees a intermittent short to ground in one of the deployment circuits. When this occurs the module blows the internal thermal fuse inside the module. Unfortunately you cannot repair or replace the fuse it is intenal to the module. Their are alot of short falls to the early systems, this being one, the other it can only show one code at a time. It only displays the next code after you have eliminated the one prior to it. Only resolve for code 51 that I'm aware of is to replace the module, however you need to make sure you have repaired the short first. At this point you need to make sure this is the module generating the beep. The air bag module should be mounted to the right of the column, it mounts on a dash bracket, slides onto a bracket and locks in place. Their are two 12 pin connectors to the module, disconnect the battery for a minimum of two minutes, remove the connectors from the module reconnect the battery and see if this eliminates the beeping. The modules I have replaced in the past have been a blue housing as I recall. Hopefully that will help you out.

Thank you for your response ,, Going to give that a try and see what happens ,,,, PLEASE tell me I did not mess up when I winded that clock spring when I just bought it!!! Did not know at the time it was preset ,,,I thought I was doing right thing , when I read the face of the lock spring ,,and removed the plastic piece holding and did just that ! That doesn't have anything to do wit it does it???

Speicher ,,, not meaning to bother you in any way ,,, this module you are talking about ,, does it have a white connector and a black connector going to it?? this all I see a black box with a circuit board inside it , in which these connector's are going to ,,, that is where the beeping is coming from ,,,,,, I have been thinking this is the pcm for this truck ! Have I got it wrong ??? Oh and one other quest. This truck has dual tanks ,,, is there another pump that runs the fuel pump on the frame with a connector to it ??? talking other than the two electric fuel pumps in tank's ??? Because I can not find one , other than a fuel filter , and the brake system , along with wiring running to rear of truck ??? I believe it is called a high volume pump ,, did 1994 Ford F150 's XL have one ????

A 94 model only had two pumps, one in each tank. Not sure of the connector colors, their should be 12 terminal cavities each, manual does not specify color of connectors. If you disconnect the battery and connectors, the indicator should glow steady if you have the proper module. Anything on bypassing the fuel selector switch?

The PCM is mounted over by the parking brake, under the dash approximately 6" x 8" x 2". The pcm connector face is inserted thru the firewall surrounded by a rubber seal. The harness attaches to the PCM under the hood and pulled in by one bolt thru the center of the connector.

Speicher ,,, then what the heck is this box??? As I said before it is located on right side of steering column ,, actually just right of the clock spring wires , being they running down the steering column , there is a metal bracket , that this box is attached to with a white (top) and a black (bottom) connector ,, If you remove the two screws that hold it ,you can slide it out and there is a cover that snaps into place covering a circuit board ,,,, (it really looks almost like a computer board ) with the exception you plug the white and black plugs in to it . Now that I know the PCM is located over by the emergency brake ( behind kick panel ,next to firewall ) ,, Here is what happens if you try to say run code scanner at DLC (engine) koeo , that beeping sound comes from it , , if you disconnect the Black (bottom) only , sound persist's , Now if disconnect the white (top) , it stops ,, but also you can not receive any codes from DLC , So is this what they call ECA ( electronic control assembly ) ??? If telling me the PCM is in a different location ,, then what the heck is this thing ,, it seems to control a lot of things!!! Oh yes ,, if you pull number #18 ( panel fuse ) I believe it is a 10 amp ,, (while box still connected and koeo ) , then it stops , but you lose some of your dash lights and what ever else!!! So does this box in some way control (command ) the fuel pump(s) when you koeo ,, is this where the malfunction is?? Wish I could tell you the technical term as to what this is , it might make a difference here (not sure) ,, And the only other thing is the door /key chimer (module) is mounted directly up /behind this box. it has a plug that looks sorta like (DLC shape) that plugs into it ,,,,,,,,,,,This the only way I know how to describe this to you guys on here . Going to try to take some pictures of these items , Think if I did and you could see them ,, it might make a world of difference !

PCM-Powertrain control module, formerly known as an ECM-electronic control module. This module is for electronic engine controls and in some applications electronic transmission controls. The module mounted by the chime module is the Air Bag Module with the two connectors. With the two connectors disconnected from this module, koeo does the engine, air bag and antilock brake indicators come on in the instrument cluster? Ck. fuse 17 at the dash fuse panel.

Will have to try pulling fuse #17 ,,,and see what Goes out on dash,, When I pulled the #18 the Engine light , I thought went out ,,, but I have to be sure ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Cool thing is went back over fuses in engine compartment ,, Out of all the fuses I never really messed with the Diode fuse,,, So was back tracking all fuses ,, they seemed to be good ,,, at last minute I just happen to pull that diode , then switched key to on position , and just started touching the contacts with the pulled diode ,, and then the fuel pump kicked in ,,, now funny thing is while in koeo , it energized twice , then quit ,,, I wanted to scream !!!!!! So I removed the negative post , disconnected the Inertia switch , tapped Inertia till it popped up , then got under truck and whacked the heck out of the tank,, Reconnected Batt. then Turned engine over to depressurize fuel system ,( it was then that the engine actually started then stopped ) Then re- hooked up inertia switch , reset Inertia , took a deep breath !, tried starting the truck ,, and it started !!!!!!! Still do not know what caused this ,, or how long it will run ,,, I drove it to a mechanic shop , so they can hook up to machine and check for me ,,,,,,, Now that I have learned that box is Air bag Module ,, I had disconnected , the white plug only ( to stop noise just for temporarily ) ,, and chime module ,,, ,,It ran great to mech. shop ,, Let you know what they find if anything ,, As I continue this saga !!!!!!!!!!

Just want to say ,, Thank You for all your help Speicher ,, And to ncranchero,,,,You guys really helped me with all your knowledge input ,, All I can say is Thank You again for people like you here on Ford forum , I would recommend Ford Truck Enthusiates Forum ,, to all that want to gather more info and learn !!!! :-jammin :-drink P.s. And what you said about the Air Bag Module was right on the money ,, when I changed that clock spring finally , it blew the internal fuse in it so now stuck with it until I'm able to get another one from salvage ,, Dealer wants too much for it!!!!!!! Last but not least ,,Does it hurt the truck in anyway to drive it with the A.B.Module disconnected for temporarily until able to get another,, in your opinion???????

Back on here reading up on your progress. mondays thru Thursdays I'm pretty much balls-to-the-wall and am sorry to have left you hanging. Glad Speicher jumped in with good info. What got your fuel pump running, the diode replacement? Confused me.

I'll be doing a junkyard visit as soon as I'm able to if you want me to check out a replacement module. If you see a number on yours get it and post it.

No, it doesn't hurt the truck to drive it with the module disconnected.

Say ncranchero,,,,, you disappeared on me for a couple of days!!! Just wanted to let you know ,, got it going finally ,, and could not done it with out you and Speicher on here!!!! It ended up being a bad connection with that Diode in engine compartment ,,, if you get a chance to read the reply I sent Speicher , you see what I had to do ,,, or at least it was with the removal and touching diode contacts rapidly , when pump kicked back on ,,,, And when replaced clock spring , it blew the internal fuse on the Airbag module ,, explains why it wouldn't quit chiming (beeping ) ,,,, But up and running ,,,:-drink :-jammin

Cool will get numbers ,, be a day or two so ,, bear with me ,,,, Really at a toss up as the diode tested out good !!!! But heck I got mad and whacked the crap out of the tank and went back and retraced with what you and Speicher (posts) and it started up and still kicking!!!! Even the mechanic I took it to could not find anything wrong !!!!! Crazy isn't it ,,, Pray it will keep on Trucking!!! LOL (knock on wood) I need to post a pic of old White Nellie on here for you and Speicher to see ,, for an 1994 it really looks good ,,

Well Ncranchero ,, truck lasted about a day , then went right back to same condition!! Looks like I will be retracing again ,, (sucks) This has me really crazy right now , never ran into a problem like this , !!!!!! Thought I would let you know !! :-hair

Think what is driving me crazy is all the fuses seem ok when I test them with light tester ,, Pcm has its own fuse in engine compartment right??? ,, Is there more than one??? (pcm ) ,,,,,,,,,,, Only thing haven't done is tear into fuse compartment , and remove wiring harness from pcm itself ,, ,, it really has me baffled ,, One minute seems to work , then gone ,,,,, I think that is why I do not think it is the fuel pump its self ,,,no expert by far , but it seems as tho if it were the fuel pump , it would not have run all day starting and going ,, ! But I'm learning here as I go ,, just doesn't make sense to me at this point !!!!!

At one point in one of your posts, you stated you only had power at the center posts on the fuel selector switch. Did you attempt to bypass the switch, I would go back and recheck the circuits at the switch. The switch itself could have an intermittent failure.

yes that is true only the center ones , rear tank doesn't work at all , when I got the truck the other owner at time told me not to switch tanks ,, use only front tank ,, there are six contacts , so if I have power only to the center ones ,m,,, how do you bypass the switch its self , to know if it is problem????

do you use a paper clip to jump contacts

Paper clip would be fine, just use care not to damage the terminals or allow the clip to short against a ground. Remove the connector from the switch and jumper the Red/Yellow to Brown/White circuit for the rear tank or the Red/Yellow to the Red circuit for the front tank. Keep in mind you have to either cycle the key repeatly, the pcm only runs the pump for 3-5 seconds or ground the DLC to keep the pump circuit powered.
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Alright Speicher,,, I have power to the fuel pump ,, Jumpered it as you said at DLC, key on ,, disconnected the front fuel tank connector . tested with light tester ,, red wire is hot ,and the smaller wire (kinda faded , looked to be dark blue ) but any way ,, one light is bright , the other is dimmer ,, so we have juice as they say leading to pump ,,, Can we say it is the fuel pump then ????? ncranchero suspected it might be all along ! What is your take on it at this point? Oh yes did trace that fuel selector ,, and guess what,,, someone rigged it so you couldn't use rear tank ,, so they just disconnected the connector and stuck it where it was hard to spot!!! There is a bracket mounted to the engine block , with what look like vac. lines and two components with connectors going to them ( there was three at one time , but someone removed it and that is the connector I find , I believe the EGR valve is right above it ,, may be calling it wrong thing here , but it has a wire connector going to it also ...

You need to test the ground circuit as well. Connect the ground side of the test light to the orange circuit then probe the red circuit. It would be preferable to do the test with the fuel pump connector connected, that way the circuit is loaded, especially since this concern is intermittent. To do that you would have to back probe the connector thru the rubber seal in the connector, you could use straight pins for this.

Alright bear with me here , when you say straight pins ,, the kind like wife uses in her pin cushion ( pointed at one end and has a small head at other end ? ) Or are these a special type of pin???? Because this is all that I have to use at this point!!!! And I ran into another problem I did not foresee at all ,,, I removed all the bolts from the bed ( and in my case, there happen to be 6 of them instead of 4) now with dual tanks , someone told me I could remove the rubber hose's instead of removing the the screws from the filler neck (s) ,, that was almost a big mistake cause I did not realize there was another hose (best way I can describe it is a flex type hose, inside of it ) guess it keeps people from siphoning your gas as easy ,, ( hate those things when they came out with them ) , but thought I was never going to be able to get the big rubber hose back on , but finally did , Thank God!!!! ,, so realize I'm going to have to take the little screws out ( 3 on each ) in order to move the bed off to get to the tanks. Wow you guys will be able to write a book about me before this is over ,, about a redneck mechanic trying to replace a fuel pump!!!! Have to realize this is one heck of a learning experience for me so far ,,, did make sure I unplugged all connectors running to bumper so I don't end up snatching some wires and end up with a bigger problem for myself ..

Yes, you're wifes straight pins. And yes, removing the screws is the way to go, leave the hoses in tact. It's necessary to have two hoses to vent the air during fueling.

Yes, steal the wife's stick pins. Removing the 3 screws is my preferred method. My shortbed also has 6 mounting bolts. You DID remove the hose clamp attaching the hoses to the reinforcing tab on the bed floor?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...bedsupport.jpg

This is on a 2004 model but it's basically the same on the OBS trucks.

I know where they are located ncranchero, seen them when I was under bed, little nervous about this I must admit. When you are working in a open carport at a apartment complex , it is a little tough . I fellow that has his own mechanic shop in town here , told me to use blocks and a floor jack , to raise the bed up to access the tank ,, problem is , I have to be able to get to the rear tank , so I can see if the fuel pump is usable or not. That rear tank has not been used in a long time , and I Could tell by the smell at the filler end that the gas in it is real sour . I certainly do not want to mess this truck up any more than it is! Would you use something that has set in sour gas for a long time? Being I am new at this, I do not want to do something stupid at this point !!! Is there a way to clean the pump if it is good??? And what would you use to test the pump with? Did not realize how close those pins were inside the connector ! What does the orange wire do ncranchero ? Isn't the red wire the 12 volt, what looks to be a smaller blue wire is the sending unit wire ( dimmer light on light tester ) then there is the orange and black wire , which do not light up at all . Isn't the black wire a ground? What do I need to know or watch for when I use the straight pins ( know I need to reconnect it and jumper DLC to have current to it ) , when Speicher, in post said to use ground end of tester to the orange wire with a pin and then pin red wire , what is it suspose to do ? I could not believe how much a new pump costs for an older truck !!!! Wow !!! Hoping I will be able to use that other pump ,, ,, But I am learning on here from you and Speicher , hopefully I will not mess up. It is raining here this morning ,, so hopefully will be able to catch you on here at some point ,, and you can walk me thru this!!!

I read this but decided to verify my colors before posting. My tank unit has 4 wires:
Red= 12 to pump
Black= Ground to pump
Yellow/black= Level Sender
Gray/red or Brown/Red (IDK)= blank

This is on the pump side, raining here too and couldn't get a good look at the truck harness.

Sorry I did not specify, my diagrams show the following for the front tank.
Red- Pump Power
Orange-Pump Ground
Dark Blue/Yellow-To Fuel Gauge
Black-Fuel Sender Ground
The fuel guage wires DB/Y and Bk circuits should be smaller gauge wire The test light should light with the fuel pump circuit energized Rd and O circuits with approximately the same intensity as if the test light were connected across the battery terminals. The orange circuit does eventually splice into black before it is grounded.

Ok Guys ,,,,,,,, here is where I am right at the moment ,, the Red ,I have 12 volts (good and Bright) dark blue/yellow stripe ( good and a dimmer light ) Course Orange and the Black isn't going to show anything (No Light ) ,,,I am being told it is the pump (locally here where I am at ) ,,, Now I am trying to get some help to be able to lift the bed off ( all I lack is taking the screws out at the filler 's to release them and the band's that hold them in place , to be able to remove . Have all the connector's un plugged that I can find so as not to snatch any wire's at this point . When I get this bed off , I am hoping there is a way to actually test these pumps , front and back , and hope the connectors are the same ,,, Been told may have to spice one plug for the other , ( if they are telling me right ) , need your input on this ,, will be removing bed tomorrow ( Sunday ) I do not know what you mean by pinning the Orange ( with ground end of tester light to Red (hot) with other end of tester Speicher ) I am real confused , is it supposed to light up? make pump whirl ?? Is that a clear cut way of knowing that the pump is bad ???

The connectors will be the same but the pump modules will not be. They are shaped differently due to the way they fit into the tanks. If that rear pump has been inoperative in that old gas it will be gummed up and no good anyway.

Front tank pump, flat bottomed:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...tFuelPump2.jpg

Rear tank pump, angled bottom like the angle that it's inserted into the tank:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../021106006.jpg

What happens after they sit unused in old fuel:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../022106007.jpg

What I was trying to say was use your test light ground clip on the orange lead and the test light probe on the red. This way you are verifing not only the pump power circuit but the pump ground circuit as well. Rather than clipping your test light clip to a chassis ground. If your test light is bright and the pump doesn't run it has to be faulty.

Well that answered my question about the other pump,,,,,,and laying under truck I see there is difference in tank dept , one saddle , the other is more narrower ,, so two different pumps right? A mechanic here said he could fix it for a 150.00 ,,, I do not know how he could that cheap , unless he is just talking labor it's self and not counting the the cost of the pump! I just came from under the truck bed and realized that the rear tank filler is going to be a little problem clearing the fender well , when trying to move bed back. What is your thoughts on this , when I viewed your pics on your truck bed and , I do not believe my bed will slide back the way yours did on blocks. I had to remove rear bumper also , because bed will hit it , if I'm able to slide the bed back ! I may be in over my head here!!!

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...hbedoff002.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...hbedoff004.jpg

You see the different angles the pumps mount into the tank and the different depth of the tanks.

Fix it for $150 is not a bad deal. Decent aftermarket fuel pump modules are half that. Just make sure they replace the "module" and not just the pump inside the module.

Well I stand corrected on that!!! Called the guy to make sure he could do it for that and he said that the 150.00 was just the labor , not counting the pump !!!! If I could get the bed up and off by myself this wouldn't be so a big deal,,, but after trying , realized I can not do it with out help , and it seems I run into a problem every time ,, You guys have been a blessing on here for me , ,, But that bed is awkward for me to handle ,, I even used blocks with a jack to raise the bed , but can not seem to get it up high enough to be able to remove the fuel pump , Bet there is a special tool I would have to have to remove the fuel lines also,,,, WOW I did not realize ,,, I thought a electric fuel pump , when you buy one , came complete ! ( mean ready to go,, so the module and pump together ) , did not realize you could only replace the pump its self and the module separate ,,,, ,, Thank you for telling me that info ,,, will let you and Speicher know how it goes on here !!!

[QUOTE=jterrell;11692807]Well I stand corrected on that!!! Called the guy to make sure he could do it for that and he said that the 150.00 was just the labor , not counting the pump !!!! If I could get the bed up and off by myself this wouldn't be so a big deal,,, but after trying , realized I can not do it with out help , and it seems I run into a problem every time ,, You guys have been a blessing on here for me , ,, But that bed is awkward for me to handle ,, I even used blocks with a jack to raise the bed , but can not seem to get it up high enough to be able to remove the fuel pump , Bet there is a special tool I would have to have to remove the fuel lines also,,,, WOW I did not realize ,,, I thought a electric fuel pump , when you buy one , came complete ! ( mean ready to go,, so the module and pump together ) , did not realize you could only replace the pump its self and the module separate ,,,, ,, Thank you for telling me that info ,,, will let you and Speicher know how it goes on here !!![/QUOTE By the way ,, how will I really know that they actually replaced the module and pump together ???????

I'd sure help ya if I was close.

Yes, you do need the release tools to get the hoses off.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...line_tools.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...linespring.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...lLineClips.jpg

Tell the shop you want your old parts. Then you know what they replaced.

JT I can tell you from personal experience you nee to remove the bed and just do em both while there. It looks intimidating as hell but once you do it it is REAL EASY. If you have a couple of buddies that can come over and help thats awesome if not I did it with me on one side and my wife and teenage son on the other. Biggest thing is be very careful where you grab on the one side so you don't buckle the bed under. Set it on some low saw horses and your good.

I know I am probably just too anal but when I did mine I just said screw it and replaced both pumps and both fuel sending units. Did not want to do it again. I also took it up and power washed everything I could reach while the bed was off. Lastly this is the easiest it will ever be to change that fuel filter that Ford screwed us all with when they hid it behind the gas tank instead of moving it 6" forward.

1995 Ford F150 air bag light
 

Now, I know y'all had a discussion about this awhile back, but I'm new to this thread thing, and I need to pick someone's brain, the air bag comes on, even while driving, I've checked the horn, (works) don't have cruise control, (it's a 5 speed, w/ a straight 6) and I read it could be the clock spring, any one think they can help ?