1994 F150 XL Need Info on Airbag light !
 

Ok ya Guys on here have been very helpful ,, Recently posed on here about Airbag Light flashing a code (32) , knew when I got the truck , previous owner had changed out bumpers. It is apparent he didn't tell me everything!!! try to use the horn and find out it doesn't work , The truck has a E40D tranns. and the OD shift button only works around 40-45 mph . When you turn the Ign. switch on a series of 5 beeps continues 5 times , plus the Airbag light flashing a 3-2 code!! I have driven this Truck for 7 yrs. with the light flashing this code but no sounds from under the dash . Now it is very annoying to listen to this beeping sound when you start , and sometimes it will beep when your driving it . What the heck do you do to stop it??? Been told to change the airbag bulb in the cluster to stop it , Another said you have to remove Airbag on steering wheel , remove steering wheel to get to the problem ! Never done this before so any help here would help!!!!! If anyone knows what I can do to stop this crazy sound ;PLEASE , tell ! Is the horn tied into this problem also? Or is that another issue? I just want to fix it Right!!

I'll take a wild stab at the beeping sound. I have to ask you does your volts guage work? The guage that tells you how well your alternator is working. On my 1994 F-150, I get a beeping sound and my volts guage stops working. There is a certain fuse that blows out in the fuse box under the dash. That fuse on my F-150 has been blowing from time to time with no rhyme or reason. If your volts guage is working, you can probably disregard this post.

The series of 5 sets of 5 beeps is an indication that there is a minimum of two faults, first your original concern that flashes the indicator, second that the indicator circuit is no longer operational. The tones of 5 sets of 5 beeps should of began when the air bag indicator became inoperative. This is the reasoning behind recommendations to replace the bulb you recieved. Even though this will not repair your original concern, repairing the air bag warning lamp circuit will elimate the tones. This is a redundant system to make sure the operator is aware their is a failure in the air bag system. Most probable cause of the warning lamp failure is the bulb itself. To gain access to the bulb, pull headlamp switch out, their is a small notch in the back of the knob depress the spring retainer pulling it toward you, releasing the knob, pulling it of the shaft. Remove the trim panels left and rt of the column, held in with snap retaining clips. Behind these two small trim panels there are two screws. remove these and the rest of the panel is held in by the same snap retainers. Carefully remove the retainers a section at a time pulling out on the face trim panel. Unplug fuel tank selector switch if equipped. Four screws remove the cluster, may be necessary to remove shift indicator or cable if you have an automatic trans. Sometimes you can grasp the bulb thru the front of the cluster and remove and replace the bulb with needle nose pliers. Inspect the bulb, hopefully its nothing more than the bulb otherwise further diagnosis is required.

Again, the beeping is indicating the SRS indicator lamp has malfunctioned, bulb burned out (from driving it 7 years with it on!) Speicher has given you a good procedure for replacing the bulb. Since you have now posted the code, 32, it indicates "Driver Side Air Bag Module High Resistance or Open" and that along with your statement that your horn doesn't work would seem to point to the clockspring (sliding contact) under the steering wheel being bad. The air bag sensors are not on the bumper so the previous owner changing that out is irrelevant to your problem. The sensors are mounted on the inside of the radiator support. Forget the sensors though as they are not your "priority" problem with the SRS. Replace the bulb and the clockspring and your SRS will be operative again and your face will be much happier on occasion that you meet with an opposing object. See diagram and discussion. Posted part number is F4TZ-14A664-B and there are some on EBAY or from one of the SPONSORS here.

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Ford clockspring replacement - YouTube

Want to say Thanks to you ncranchero and Speicher for your info , super help with my problems , thanks again! Now it seems everything is turning against me ,, wow,, went to parts house yesterday driving truck to get clock spring and bulb to replace ,, and worked on wife's vehicle to fix her problem,, went to start truck again and now it won't start at all!!! I'm a fair hand at fixing most things ,, but this is starting to test me . Haven't had chance to change that clock spring and bulb out yet , but that shouldn't have anything to do with the truck running ,, Right??? Guess everything is starting to catch up to me on my Old Faithful White Nellie!!! LOL Don't know if ya guys name your trucks on here , but I do !! :) I'm not a beer drinker , but these problem's one after the other are heading me to drink!!!!! ( just kidding ) You think I need to run tester again , koeo, to find possible problem , seems at this point all I can do , being , I can't get it to start yet!!! What do you all think this could be?? Blown fuse , all can tell you at this point is ,, turned key to start , and that was it ,, engine does turn over but not starting !!!!

Thank You ,, ncranchero and Speicher for your help ,, Super!!!! It seems I'm being tested here or something ! LOL Went to pick up clock spring and new bulb , also picked up a few things to fix wife's vehicle , Don't get tired of me on here !!! But seems I'm caught in a DOMINO Effect with my truck ,, But any way , parts house gave me wrong part , sooooo,, jumped in truck ( haven't had chance to change clock spring and bulb yet ) and GEE, NOW THE TRUCK WON'T START !!!! So more info from you is going to be a big Help on here! All I can do at this point is run tester (koeo) and see if it will give me a code ,, and try checking fuse's . Truck will turn over with no problem with key , just not hitting !!!!

I'll warn you! If you mention my name more than once your fuel pump will go out! Fuel pumps hate me. Uh-oh, you need to delete one of my mentions above or you're done for.
What are your symptoms? You hear the fuel pump whirring when you turn on the ignition switch? Have you reset the inertia switch?

Ok here is what I have done so far , I did check the fuses but could not find any blown, used a light tester , now considering the fact I do not have the owners manual to the truck , The relays and fuses in the engine compartment are not labeled to let you know what they are ! So used a cheap Haynes Manual to compare (some what helpful ) I do know that tester showed a 542 code (fuel pump circuit open connection -electronic control assembly to motor ground ) ,, Have many issues with my truck it seems ,, Air bag light , clock spring ,, ignition key lock cylinder ,, could go on and on!!! But trying to fix them one at a time Ok been told that inertia switch is located on passenger side by the hump but on fire wall (??) there is also a kick panel on passenger side that seems to have a little black box with a small connector to it , with a small well on top that you can stick your finger down in ( feels like a button inside) ,, take it that this is it! Now it doesn't seem tripped or that button would be popped up I would think not sure on that tho . Should I disconnect and reset ? And to answer your question back a ways , before I got to rambling here ,, NO you can not hear the pump whirl (hum ) when you turn on ignition , that is one of the first things I noticed ( after I disconnected the PCM SO i COULD LISTEN FOR IT LOL ) Remember that annoying beeping , couldn't hear above it , LOL then find a little gizmo behind the box its self that was doing the buzzing!!! Guess I need to rehook the PCM back up and disconnect that little Gizmo that seems to be the noisy one !!! But back to problem,, any suggestions at this point will help ,, Will be working again on it today to see what I can accomplish ,,, Don't know times you get on here but will check thru out the day and night to see what you suggest , or can tell me !!!

IIRC my code last week was also 542. I had a spare center tank pump so I plugged it in and it worked. Plugged my tank back up, no work. Put the new pump in, works great. I do believe I've rubbed off on you.:-X16

Thanks ncranchero !!!!!!! What else Can I do at this point ,

Hey ncranchero, you know where I can find a owners manual for this 1994 F 150 , was hoping I could possible find out which fuses and relays go to what under this hood!

Is your truck a single fuel tank? Check for momentary power on both sides of that inertia switch you found.(correct, if the button is down it's not popped. They are bad to toast the terminals though.) I just bought the pump off of eBay, a no-name one even, $40, have bought several of them & had no problems.

This is one from my past 95 F150. It "should" be the same.
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Ok here we go ,,,, Can't tell you what I did , that made the truck start back up one time yesterday! Unless I'm doing something wrong , can not seem to find any bad fuses either . Just before it started , I had just unhooked the Inertia switch connector , popped button up then back down , plugged it back up , disconnected the PCM plugs , re- plugged back up . Then in Engine compartment ,, moved fuses (relays ) around ,,, hooked tester up , turn Ignition key on , took codes ! Weird then it read a system pass (confused) ,,, took a deep breath and tryed to start it , and it fired right up At first got a little excited I admit ,, but then asked myself what caused this to start with! Let it run for about ,,OHHH,,, say 5 mins or so . Shut it off then tryed to restart again ! Right back to problem again ,, same code now ,,,,542 fuel pump circuit open connection / electronic control assembly (ECA) to motor ground ,,,, What is that code trying to tell me ? circuit open I get ,, but the ECA to motor ground ,,I don't ! Now this code comes from my code scanner book , The Haynes Manual I have says same thing just words it a little different ,, fuel pump circuit open /PCM to motor ,, I take that is the same thing ! Now I tryed to use a paper clip to bypass Inertia , to see if that was problem , But no response ( unless I did it wrong) ,, tryed to repeat what I supposedly did just before it started ,,,,, but no response yet ,, same code !!! Is there a way to jump the fuel pump itself while in tank to see if it will energize ??? And almost forgot ,, yes I have dual tanks ,, I use Drivers side only ,,, because the switch over valve seems to be out also when I got it ,,, so left it alone!!!

Well, you must determine if you're getting power to the pump. A multi-meter or at least a test light is required to do that. Try the whack test. Take a runner mallet or similar and whack the bottom of the tank in the area of the pump. See if it starts working. mine did, temporarily, like 10 minutes. I can get the connector pinout for you to test it if you have a meter or light, and a helper.

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Ok going to whack the bottom of the pump this morning and see what happens !!! I do have a tester light so that is a plus ,,,, Also some number twelve wire to try and run a connection to pump from battery to see if it will make a sound ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Is it possible , just possible ,, that the PCM could be stuck as they say ,, reaching here a little I know , going to try the whack test first ,, then proceed to pump terminals ,,I honestly don't think it could be anything else ,,,, Oh by the way ,, what does it mean when you change out bulb in dash (air bag light ) and the beeping doesn't stop ( go away ) , did do that yesterday and had to change Key lock cylinder out while at it ,,, was surprised when the beeping sound didn't go away !!! Very hard to hear if pump energizes with that beeping ,, Guess that is a sure sign the clock spring must be replaced I take it , to get it to stop! Will check back here a little later this morn and let you know where I'm at in this saga !!!! :-X16

You changed the SRS indicator lamp and there's still beeping???? Ok, if you changed the bulb then you're getting a code flashed?

My bragging about not ever getting a defective fuel pump just bit me in the butt. Put it in last Saturday, haven't moved the truck an inch, and went to start it this morning and NO FREAKIN PUMP WHIRRING! Plugged in my spare center tank pump......bzzzzzzzz!:-arrgh:-arrgh:-arrgh So I pulled it back out. Man I'm glad there's no bed on my truck! I'd have been ready to strangle the seller. Now to see if he makes it good, quickly!

Yep same flashing code , now I don't know if it takes a special bulb, but it looks like a standard #161 dash bulb ,, so I switched a good bulb around in place of it ,, but that didn't stop the Beeping ,,, I even removed the connector from the inertia and used a paper clip to by pass it in hopes it would at least make a sound from the pump , but that did not work either . spent most of the day trying to trace all grounds down , know that the fuses and relays are at least getting power with tester ,,, Ok here is a question,,, even tried switching fuel selector on dash(front to back ) the fuel gauge when on rear tank went way past the full mark ,(way past!!!) does that mean that pump is bad as well???? Down to pump its self now ,,, Gee,, have to drain half a tank out ,, then take straps off to lower tank to get to the pump,,( have no one to help take the bed off ) so have to do it the hard way ,,,, Now there is a connector with 4 wires running to the top of the tank ,,, would say it is a good 2 ft long or it seems to be close to that ,, that I have to get apart ,, was hoping to by pass everything in the circuit to see if it would whirl that way !!! If it does I'm going to scream and kick something ,, because it had better not make a sound ,, after all I have went through , to this point ,, :'( :'( :(

Your beeping issue is screwy! If you replaced the SRS bulb and are seeing a LFC then it shouldn't beep.:-X15

You can do all the things you've done trying to make the pump work but the question I haven't seen answered is "do you have 12V on the red wire in the connector at the fuel pump"? See my connector photo above. If yes then your pump is bad. If no, where in the circuit is the last place you get 12V?

You can unbolt the bed and lift it up enough, one side at a time to sit it on short 2x4 blocks and slide it back far enough to access the center tank pump. I've done it several times by myself. It's not as difficult as it may sound.
Regular cab pump location.
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My 95 Super Cab, with the bed slid back.
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Well at point now , where ready to undo bed and see if I can work it back ,, this a big bed ,,and the tank is located mid way of bed ,, all I have is #12 wire that I managed to pick up , I studied the pic's you provided ,I may have to remove the toolbox also ,, not sure I can move it with on there (weight wise) , but can try ,, yes it would make it simpler to do , rather than lowering tank , will admit that . Now you are saying if there is 12volts present at the connector , that the pump is bad ,, Are you talking with the key off at this point when testing??? I thought when you run a wire from the battery to the pump that if it started whirling sound , the pump was good ! And that there was a problem some where else in the system ,, not all that great when it comes to tracing elec down,, but trying to follow the steps . Now my question about that Air bag light again is this ,,, asked parts house if there is a special bulb strickly for the air bag light ,, they could not answer that for some reason , if there is then explains why it did not quit (sound) , praying it is not a driver stuck or something in that pcm ,, tho I doubt it . Can fix most things on truck ,, but working on electronics is not one of my best qualities . But I am going to try and hopefully ,, not mess anything up more than it is!!! Oh , almost forgot ,, in your pic ,, how hard is when sliding bed back is it with that filler tube still attached , as in your pic there???? take it you have to put a rag or something over hole to keep rust or dirt from getting in ,, and there is two of these filler tubes also being it is dual tanks

In the top photo you can see the wiring connector attached to the frame ( to the right of the pump) . If you pull it loose from the frame, disconnect it and test the pins mentioned above for power you'll know if the pump is getting 12V. Ignition will have to be on. These models have a check valve in the pump "module, as they call it, that prevents flow from tank to tank.

I'll look up the bulb but IIRC it's just a 161

Edit:
Just to prevent a major foopah, you do not have the dash panel off and the fuel selector switch disconnected do you?

The 161 or 194 is fine for the bulb.

Ok unplugged connector going to fuel pump in the tank (front) , found a good ground , used tester to see in any current present coming to pump ,, at this point seems there is none ( light will not come on Tester ) ,, Ok would a bad Ignition switch cause this??? at steering column . if there was a bad connection could it cause the pump not to energize???? Or can I rule that out. :-X16 I re hooked every thing in the dash as I went ,, little perplexing that the beeping didn't go away tho ,,, of course I did use another bulb from the cluster its self to see if it would stop ,, unless it needs to be a brand new one! Oh yes ,, I did run a wire from Pos at battery and tryed to see if pump would come on ,,, but I dont believe I grounded it while doing it ,, Now neighbor happen to have a volt meter ,, just need to know what to set it at , never had to use one before!!!!

Ok so far I can not seem to get any voltage at the point the fuel pump connects , take it I am going to have to start probing back down the line toward the engine compartment ,, all I can tell you at this point is for sure have voltage at fuse box under hood , and can hear relay click (energize) when key is turned to on ,, I seem to have power at the switch connecting to the Inertia Switch ,, by the way does your connector to Inertia have three wires running to it or just two? I only see two on this one ( reason asking , a local mechanic over the phone mentioned three , being our trucks are almost the same , how many you have ,, because did find a wire , laying below , it is red and someone has run that wire from some where , I'm thinking it is the old speaker wire run to speaker behind seat on passenger side . there has to be a break some where what else can I test that is related to or wired in conjunction to the pump ??? Going to check one more time at pump connection to be doubly sure there is no voltage present ,,, where would you start checking your self at this point ? that pump on the rail under truck ,, I can not see any connections to it (elec) at all ,,

Inertia switch has only two wires.

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Here is your path to follow.

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Wait just a minute here!!! wow that is a tripped inertia ?? may be I ned to recheck that thing ,,, you know I kept thinking it would be all the way tripped up ! ,,, but if it is ,,, when I connected a jumper wire to it (connector ) shouldn't it (pump come on and code go away? ) What I'm trying to say here is mine looks like that pic tripped ,,, If I reach in and pop it up , it comes all the way up

It should be down. The cutting away buggered up the mechanics of the switch a bit.

Hold on be right back ,, going to walk out and look at it a little closer , being kick panel is still off for now

Ok it is all the way down ,,, alright,,,, if not getting a light on tester at point of connector to fuel pump , means it is back toward the engine some where right??? What all does that Ignition switch on steering wheel housing control???
When you turn key on it should energize the pump along with many other things right?

Yes. The PCM activates the fuel pump relay.

Ground terminal "A" and turn the ignition switch to on. That activates the relay to run the pump.

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Ok Im going to try and follow those wire in that diagram ,, and see where 12 v is present ,,, Not very good at this but I going to learn one way or other ,,, no choice at this point ,, have to get this truck running !!!

Ok now when grounding this terminal at DLC , can I ground it to any point , there is a ground point right off the connector its self on fender side , and lets say this makes it kick in ,,,, then where is the proplem going to be from this point??? Or does this mean I am still going to have to trace it down (lol) ,,, ya killing me (lol) ,, have to laugh at something !!!! My spirits are down so much from this ,,, I need to laugh at some thing ,,,,, Ok seriously ,,,, Going to try that , now!

Start by swapping 2 of the relays in the battery junction box. The second one is the fuel pump you know. Then check for voltage on both sides of the inertia switch. (Have you tripped & reset it? Smack it lightly with the handle of a screwdriver or something to trip it & reset it) then you'll have to pull the panel back off to check the back of the selector switch. From that point if you still haven't located the "no power' point you'll have to check the wiring to the back.

I'm hoping palletcutter and subford will have some helpful input here ..............

Yeah, just jump it to a good clean bare ground.

You said you checked ALL of the fuses, right. Even the PCM fuse?

Ok will do !!!! This is certainly a learning experience ,,, Ok ,, get ready for this!!!! NOW the battery is down,, sooo,,, going to have to run to parts store to have it charged back up , when it rains it pours ,, Believer in that Now!!! let you know what happens

Well, I'll certainly give you an "A" for effort!
I'm a bit rusty on these models since it's been about 6 years since I had one.

yes and light on tester came on all of them , at both points on fuses ,,, ,, now the only thing I did was buy one new relay , and switched them around , now when battery was good ,, :o ,, now its really low!!!!! Said this is a Domino effect on me here !!!! So bear with me !

Ok in the process of tracing the voltage to pump ,, ran into a slight problem on clock spring !!! Went to remove air bag from steering wheel , and seems there are four (appear to be star drive ) because you can not get your head behind to actually see them , on the back side of the steering wheel and seem to be (think ) holding air bag compartment . Do I need a (torque socket to remove these?????? Tried to pull cover off when realized these seem to be holding it in . According to video on how to replace clock spring ,, did not show this !!!!!!!!! A regular deep well socket does not work!!!! So assuming this requires a Torque socket ,or star drive socket ,, what ever you call it ,,,,,,,,, those things cost about 23.00 bucks for a set !!! My question is IS this what I need to get air bag out so I can get steering wheel off , so I can get to clock spring ????? :'(

Never mind ,,, Sorry about that ,,, think I'm exhausted and need to regroup here for a minute ,,,,,, just answered my own question when I went to review the video again and He said what I need ,,, Disregard ,, Sorry !

Well ncranchero you have been a real big help , to me on here ,, I really appreciate more than you will ever know !!! Well got battery back today , WHEW,,,Glad it was Ok ,,,, did take the clock spring out while waiting on battery ,,,, and ,, hope your sitting down ,,,,,, because this blew my mind on this one ,, Watched the video ,on how to change it out ,,, went and followed the steps ,, and it wasn't bad to do at all ,,, except one little thing ,,, the new one had that plastic do dad on top ,, I thought it was there for shipping purposes ,,,,, so I got to reading the directions that were printed on it ,,, it said ,,,,,,,,,, wind in direction of arrow till tight ,, then turn in reverse three and a half turns back ,, then align slot ,,, well I did ,, because no one told me , when I purchased it that it was preset ,,,, everything went great and I have a HORN now ,,, so I turned ignition key to on , thinking this beeping would be gone, NOT,,,,,,,,,Only now I have instead of a code 32----- a code 51,,,, and the blasted peeping is still there!!!!!!! What did I do wrong ,,, Now back to the pump situation ,, tried to jumper the DLC at fuel end and relays clicked and still a code 542 ,,, even tapped the interia , to trip , then reset , and still problem ,,, checked the fuel selector on (while plugged in still) there are six all together the two middle ones show power , with test light , the two top , two bottom ,, have nothing at all ,, the switch is set fr front tank ,,,,, and the fuel gage is showing just a little under half a tank ( know that is correct when I parked it ) if you try the rear tank , it goes way past full ,, so Know that one is bad for sure ( malfunctioning ) at the dash fuel gage . in the switch . And after all this still no power kicking pump ,, It just got dark here so had to come in ,, working under a carport ( apartment wife and I live in ) So what you think now ,,, know I still have to find where the power seems to end at ,, still working on that ,, but after putting that clock spring in and it doing that ,, just blew me away ,, that is almost 60.00 bucks ,, and the beeping did not go away !!!!! :-hair :-arrgh