Power Window Regulator
 

This is my first post to this site... I have a 2008 Expedition King Ranch and just discovered that the cable to the window regulator busted... Don't know how. The cable is frayed at the bottom part of the regulator. (apologies if I'm not describing this correct) So I'm assuming the whole regulator needs to be replaced since the cable is busted, correct? Anyone have any idea what that would cost? I'm assuming the labor would cost the most, I found the part online for about $100... Any ideas or suggestions would be most appreciated! Thanks.

The labor is about one hour total. So whatever rate it's at $85/hr, etc.

nelly0524 - just had mine replaced last week (driver's window) under my Ford ESP. Regulator was $98.49 and labor was $118.42 (1.4 hours). Regulator part number (Ford OEM) was 9L1Z7823201A. $0 deductable :) Found the part online for $74.00...

To avoid this cost: As soon as the window seems to be running slower than the others, pull the door panel off and spray some lubricant like WD-40 onto the cable while somebody runs the window up and down.

The cable hangs up inside the sleeve it runs through, overworks the motor and burns it up.

I agree with Zero on all accounts except the wd-40. It's not a lubricant, it's a water displacer. Use a quality white silicone lubricant on the where the white plastic guides slide up and down the metal rails.

You can replace them yourself. The chilton manuals have a pretty good write up. Blue painters tape will hold the window up. Just use 5-6 pieces. I replaced several on my 2000 Dodge durango. Buy one with a lifetime warranty. I could get one replaced start to finish in just under an hour. Take lot of pics with a digital camera to help yourself out. Also, I would remove the old one and take with with you to the parts store. You need to make sure your get the correct side and correct door. They are usually not interchangeable.
You will be surprised how easy they really are.

I would like to know how the door panels come off. Don't get me wrong, I can do it, but it is always nice to know if there are any hidden clips or screws before you start.

This is going to be my next project on 3 of 4 windows!

What I like to use in situations like this is liquid graphite instead of grease or something like wd-40. Like Berry mentioned, WD-40 is not really a lubricant per sae and the thing with grease is that it attracts dirt and can get gummy as it gets contaiminated. Liquid graphite is near perfect for something like this because the small graphite particles get inside the component in the liquid suspension and then when the liquid dries, it leaves just the dry graphite all over the place as a lubricant. It takes quite a bit longer to contaiminate since there's nothing really there for dirt to stick to.

Well, got all 4 windows done today and what a difference. No more squeeking and fast up and down. Just sprayed some good lubricant on the cables and grease on the tracks, voila!

Good job. My passenger side had a horrible squeall when rolling up. Like rock on glass. Greased it up-both tracks-BOTH SIDES OF THE TRACK-cables, pulleys, pulley shafts, etc. Runs like butter.

What did you guys use for lubricant? White silicone grease or liquid graphite or ........ ???

Plan on doing this soon.


Thanks,
Matt

For grease on the tracks, I used a marine grease (blue). For the cables, I used liquid wrench's lubricant.

I used lithium grease for the tracks and a silicone type lubricant for the pulleys.