Detailed FICM Repair Procedure
 

Well I finally got around to writing a detailed FICM check and repair.
FICM pictures by DrQuad - Photobucket

Nice post!! Thanks. Sticky?????

I know you can click on each image to increase the size but is there a way to make the images even larger? I'd like to print the images to full page size so I can print them for future use. Thanks

PDF of DOC here
Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

Excellent ... thanks!

This explains a lot to me. You have to resolder the connections is because they use lead free solder. I am a solder technician. When they went away from lead because of health concerns, the solder joints are very fragile and vibration will kill them. All electronics are suffering because of lead free solder. Thanks for the write up.

I buy solder with lead :)

DrQuad...thank you! This PDF version was much easier to see vice the photobucket version. Thanks again.

Added to the Tech Folder. For those of you that are not members to access the PDF version I have it downloaded to my computer. :-tap

What years do the 6.0 use the 4-pin FICM, and what years use the 6-pin FICM?

Looking at all those pics brings back fond memories from Sunday :-X18 Gives me douche chills. I think the 4 pin is later 04 up, but Bismics writeup in the tech folder says the opposite. Easy to find out, just remove the small cover on the FICM and look inside. Mine had 4. BTW still waiting for my truck to be done. x(

Mine was built 6-04 and has the 4 pin.

My 2003 spare FICM is a 7 pin, the 4 pin is the later model! I believe that this is what I posted in the thread in the Tech folder, but if not .......... Good catch Tim.

This link goes to Powerstroke but not to the PDF. Is there an updated link?

How might one get the PDF version?

You need to be registered to download it from the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

Dumb ?
 

I probably missed the answer to my ? somewhere but are the 7 pin FICMs OK?

Since they were the earlier FICMs were they soldered with lead solder?

DSMMH

Sorry, I just saw this Mark. My truck is early 04 build, late 03 motor build and my FICM had the 4-pins inside. :-huh IDK, maybe it wasn't the original FICM? Who knows, all I care about is it's running now, and running good, even on the stock tune (for the winter) ;)
EDIT: From the tech folder- 3.) On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.
Any ideas?

Thanks so much, Dr Quad!! Got the PDF, going to try it now,... will let you know.

25 minutes to test and put back together. your directions were very easy to understand, Thanks a lot! Checked out at 48 volts, so I'm still trying to figure out my problem. On to other threads.

No start 2005 Ford 6.0 PSD
 

Mine turned out to be a bad FICM, reading on the Auto Enginuity scan tool indicated FICM performance issue code was P0611. Voltage was reading 40 volts engine running or not running. That's as low as the scan tool reads (that needs improvement). Removed the FICM, this takes a little time and there's not a lot of room to work to remove the back mounting bolts. Did the resolder job that DrQuad outlined on the 24 solder points reassembled and fired right up.

Voltage now running at 48 and 48.5 volts. No codes from the scan tool. Good to go! Love it when a plan comes together. Thanks for posting the detailed procedure DrQuad!

I have the below issue with my FICM... I applies the PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM

1a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.

1b. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.

2. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

the result in (1a) 48v , 11v, 0v & 0v
the result in (1b) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v
the result in (2) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v

I removed the FICM from the truck and tray to repair it but the capacitors it so tied I feel that it's ok .....
My question, since the output voltage are lower than 48V .... If I replace all the capacitors do you think that it will be improved or not.
If not what I should do ?????

Are you saying the capacitors are tight? One side of the cap. could still be soldered on. I would resolder all of the mentioned caps. and retest.

Sigh...touched case with probe
 

So...I was testing my FICM and must have touched the case with the probe, precisely as the instructions say NOT to do. :-X09

I say this, not because I felt like I did, but that I saw a quick spark and so MUST have (it's a tight fit to get in there - that's my story and I'm sticking to it).

Can anyone tell me what I likely fried?

I saw voltage readings in the mid 20's when cranking prior to my stupidity, so I think that the FICM was shot just anyway, but now I wonder if the re-solder trick will get me where I need to be.

Just an update. I evidently didn't fry anything by shorting out the pin. I pulled out the FICM, took it apart, used a heat gun to remove the amber staking compound, re-soldered all the connections, installed that little resistor, used the heat gun again to melt the staking compound back around all the components once more and am good to go.

The truck runs like a million bucks again and I have 58.3 volts.

Another bennie - fuel economy. I am getting 2-3mpg better than I had been. Woo hoo!

I think that the problem was those flat little resistors, since two of four were loose, but perhaps it was more than that.

Quick other question: I saw that some other trucks seem to have a rubber bushing at the four circles that the FICM connection bolts go through. Where can I get these? My Excursion didn't have them - only the two metal hold-down plates. More dampening resistance has to be good thing.

Please keep in touch regularly about the results you're getting with the 58V's.

The difference in FICM mounting is a difference in year models and mounts. Yours is isolated at the bottom instead of the top and I don't think you can add more mounts the way it is now. I tried--LOL.

thanks for the info

The Doctor saved me a grand.
 

I had my 2003 F250 in for a cold start problem. They told me the FICM was bad. I only had a cold crank voltage of 19V. I got online and did a little digging, and came across this excellent guide for fixing the FICM. I told the dealership to order the part, but that I was going to take the truck home and try another fix. I resoldered the leads on all the Caps. On the 03, the resisters are different than depicted in the pdf, but all went well. The truck started right up this morning, and I am calling to tell the dealer to send the part back. Thanks again DrQuad, you rock. :-jammin

Oh, BTW, this was a 7 pin FICM, so your process does work with those as well. As I noted, the resisters are a different type and in a different location, but they are the only resisters on the board, so they are not too hard to find. I should have taken a picture, but didn't.

Unfortunately, either this process just didn't work, or there's something else wrong.
My '06 F350 6.0l had 'fuel' issues like white smoke, occasionally bogging down for a few seconds as if starved for fuel, and so on. A couple weeks ago it simply didn't start.

I replaced the batteries and fuel filters, still no change. I ran across this post and pulled the FICM unit. I found that someone had removed it before (I bought this truck used with 125k miles) because there was one bolt holding it on without any grommets. I assumed it was vibrated to death and continued with the repair procedure. There were minute cracks (rings) in the solder so after re-flowing I was sure it would work... not! :mad: Could it be that the unit is severely damaged beyond repair (and I should just order a new one)?

So my truck is still sitting in the driveway and I'm not sure where to go from here. HPOP maybe? :-banghead

Check your voltages on the FICM. 48V is the magic number. If you are getting that, the FICM is not the likely culprit.

ficm
 

just curious, cause i am going to do this fix as well.:-X10 but did you ADD another resistor, or just resolder?? thanks

I added a 10k resistor. I may pull things apart and replace the 10k version with a 20k version, though. I am also likely to upgrade my capacitors at the same time. Not much sense in tempting fate. Asking the capacitors to operate at above their designed voltage sure seems like you are pushing for their early demise, thus leaving you stuck on the side of the road. It's just not worth the risk, IMHO.

I will share that doing this procedure with a $15 soldering iron is a quick ticket to potentially hurting stuff. I have a digitally controlled soldering station that regulates tip temperature. You don't want to have to dwell too long on any of the connections to get the solder to reflow, but don't want to have such a high temperature that you damage the components. It's all about using the right tips at the right temperatures.

(with the right flux)

How is the compared to the swamps, besidesthe of voltage

No one that I know of has published what, precisely, Swamps does to the units he receives. Following the repair of the unit in my Excursion, I have begun offering the repair of these units for folks not set up for or interested in doing it themselves. I have been doing upgrades as requested. Swamps certainly has a good product, though. No doubt.

Oh really... this diesel newbie just blew a second FICM. Maybe I shouldn't mudbog as hard as I do. Was tempted to do it myself, but I might be interested in hiring someone to do it for me if the price is right. More info would be appreciated! (DunnJH4@Gmail.com). Tell me a little more about the upgrades too.

Just an update - I did indeed pull out my FICM and replace those capacitors. All electronics looked fine when I pulled it apart, I just didn't want to tempt fate as I have seen some fried ones on other units that some friends of mine dropped off to me (when the two brought to me had fried, they took part of the printed circuit board with them - bummer). Given that I upgraded to capacitors capable of more than the 58V that it was outputting, I opted to leave the 58V mod in.

Upshot: I wouldn't recommend upgrading to 58 volts without changing out all the capacitors unless you want to roll the dice on your PCB and roll them further on getting stranded.

Just fixed mine with Dr. Quad's most excellent advise. Other electrical problems I have been having are also fixed. My driver side window was slow and herky jerky to roll up, My CD player quit working, the truck generally ran rough. After the fix the window works works well, the CD player works and the truck starts faster and runs much smoother. Not sure why the FICM fix helped the other problems since the dealership said my electrical problems have nothing to do with the low voltage (24 volts) on the FICM. Thanks Dr. Quad you saved me $1200.00.

Another update - my FICM is now fried. I do not believe that replacing the capacitors with versions that have a higher microfarad rating as is suggested in pstrang's writeup is a good way to go - at least not without changing out the FET's and perhaps other components as well.

Everything, for thousands of miles actually, was fine with the voltage upgrade alone. The issue occured after the caps were replaced.

Of potential significance, however, is that I had never towed any considerable distance since doing the original repair. When the unit died, it did so when I was pulling an 8800# travel trailer.

What were the specs on the caps you used as far as voltage rating, temperature rating, etc?