Best plugs for 5.4L
 

I want to change the spark plugs on my 2007 F150 5.4L. What are the best plugs to put in? E3's??

Just making sure: you do know about the issue of the plugs breaking in two and the extraction tool that you would need to do this job right? As for the replacement plugs, I have not read of too many using e3's on here. There is a champion plug that some have had success with. It's selling point is that it is a one piece plug that won't break on your next change, but some have complained of their truck not running as good on the champions, others say it is fine. Or or course you can just go back with motorcraft.

I put the Motorcraft plugs in mine. If you change them every 60-70k and have the Lisle tool then you shouldn't have to worry too much about the breaking.

Motorcrafts.

Yes I have heard about them braking. I have 69,990 miles on this new to me truck. I started using injector cleaner on the last tank and I will use more this fill up.
So just get Motocrafts? are the one piece now?
Is this the right tool?

yes that is the tool. I think the motorcraft are still two piece but I'm not sure. I think I remember reading that the champions are the only one piece you can get

The motorcrafts are still two piece. I just don't leave them in for the full 100K that manufacture recommends. Yes, that Lisle tool is a must for any 2004-2008 F150 owner.

Thanks, I will order the tool. I have never been a fan of champions but I do not like the idea of the two piece plug. I looked at the E3's and they are one piece, I just do not know how they would run in the truck.
Is 10-11 MPG normal for local short hilly driving with this 5.4L truck?? I just did my first fill up since I picked up the truck with a full tank and it is about 10 give or take MPG. I hope it will not stay like this!!!!

I changed mine out at 70K and after much research ended up going with the motorcraft plugs. Found mine at a great price and just could not justify the extra cost for other makes when they are similar too the motorcraft or have a copper electrode instead of a platinum electrode.

Later build 2007 5.4's should have factory installed 1 piece plugs.

Yeah new designed heads with different plugs. I believe they have brown boots on the coils instead of black.

i just changed my [champion] plugs cuz i had a constant misfire/rough idle at 210,000 km. 6 came out no problem but two squeaked and creaked and took twice the force but none broke! luck or cuz of champions??
it already had champions in it for how long i dont knwo but it was misfiring and one plug came out with a completely burned off electrode

Define late build, Mine is a 3/07 build.

It's after November of 2007. I don't know if any of them with the new head design would even be 07 models, they should all be 08's.

If you do decide to run the E3's keep us all updated on their performance. I for one am quite curious as I do not know anyone who has run them in the 5.4 3 valve. I have had decent luck with them in my lawnmower and weed eater though.

I guess I could test them and let everyone know how they work. is there anyway to see what they are doing with the AE scan tool??

I've been using the MC SP515 since 60K.. Truck has 78K on it now. All seems ok.

I ran an AE mode 6 report just this morning while troubleshooting my headlights; there doesn't appear to be any misfiring or anything unusual.

When I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s.FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum. They also could very well be manufactured under a license agreement by E3 because the electrode design is sooooo very similar & the cost (retail and actual) is almost identical.


FYI about the replacement

Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did follow the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Another technique that can definitely be used is to loosen the plugs about 1/8 to ¼ of a turn, start the engine for about 1 minute- this allows the flame to travel up around the plug to burn off the carbon, let cool, then remove with the process I previously described.
As far as using an air ratchet, I can understand the theory of “shocking” the carbon loose, but I have also seen and experienced in my younger days some real disasters.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.

thank you Beechkid, that was very good info!
would these be ok or better then the stock ones?
2007 FORD F 150 Ford Racing Modular 3-Valve Zero Degree Spark Plugs M-12405-3V0 - SummitRacing.com

(Motocraft) / (ford racing)
Electrode Core Material Copper / Copper
Electrode Tip Material Platinum / Copper

ThanksDesigned for use in engines with higher-than-stock cylinder combustion pressures, these Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs are prefect for your Ford. Their unique design is proprietary to Ford 3-valve engines and they are only available from Ford Racing. The Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs are one heat range colder than the OEM Ford Mustang GT, and two heat ranges colder that the stock 5.4L truck engines. Keep your engine firing on all eight cylinders with a set of these Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs.

those are way tooo cold for a stock/street engine- they are designed for high rpm operation where higher compresson ratio, higher cylinder PSI & cylinder temps (induced by design & use) are factors. In a street application (even in a modified engine) would most likely result in fouled spark plugs because of the lower rpm operation.

BTW- someone mention that the new MC plugs are still 2 piece- well, not exactly- they are welded not crimped as the other were....same as the 1-piece champions....the last time I looked.

Thank you! too cold is what I was thinking but was not sure.

Don't forget some anti-seize on the plug threads.

thanks, I did not know that for plugs.

Looking for sparkplugs for 2007 5.4 flex fuel
 

Looking for sparkplugs for 2007 5.4 flex fuel