Drove mine on the freeway today. Came home and readjusted the idle mixture screws for the new 1/2" spacer. Set the choke to the winter setting.

Put new tires on it.

need to get a new headlight switch, the new one I got a couple months ago has a short internally or something screwed up.

One day a month ago my dash lights flashed off then back on and never did it again.

Today the dash lights didnt work neither did my parking lights, tail lights, or marker lights. Switch headlights on they worked as well as the dome light. jiggled the headlight knob it started working and has been working since then.

I received the remaining parts to complete the engine test stand. Waiting on a few odds and ends to wrap up the engine itself and then I'll be ready for it break in!

Last steps on the test stand are to install the radiator and electric fan and complete the control panel.

The panel will have gauges for temp, oil pressure and RPM. There is a master battery disconnect, a racing toggle switch for ignition power and a push-button start switch. I'm using a hand throttle from a riding mower and also have a toggle switch to turn on the radiator fan. Fuel is provided via a 3 gallon fuel cell.

All told with all materials and misc parts I figure I have about $350 into the stand including the cost of the radiator and controls. I have about $1800 in the engine acquisition, machining, assembly and misc parts.

It would have been cheaper to just get a long block, but this way I know what I have. Once the swap is done, I should be able to recoup some costs if I sell off the old engine. The stand can be adapted for use with the 292 y-block (the next project..)

Once again; making progress slow but sure..

Spent my lunch break replacing a broken rear left self adjuster cable; i chipped off all the rust from the backing plate and cleaned everything up. Monday, I do an encore performance on the starboard side.

-James Huston

I finished up the interior part of Rusty - I think. Here's a shot of his eclectic interior:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...aeea608b9c.jpg

KS Cop, it has gotten to the point that we cant rebuild them as cheap as we can buy them. Doesn't make any sense, but that's the way it is. To get a block machined right it costs $1000. Then you have parts. In reality the heads need some testing or a little machine work. My budget build is close to $3K.


Here is a place where a guy can get 351W with a 5 yr warranty for $2K. https://www.barnettesengines.com/upl...ryJuly2014.pdf

If you just want a stock replacement that's fine, but if you want a little more compression, hotter cam or anything else you have to do it yourself. I have also seen a number of rebuilt engines with things like a .030 under crank, .060 overbore and other issues. By the time I pay the kind of money that a good rebuilt costs I can get the machine work done and assemble it myself and still come out ahead.

I don't know Bill, there are an awful lot of performance crate motors out there for cheap too.


Here is a 351W 400 HP and 430 ftlbs of torque with aluminum cylinder heads for $3,295.00. Again just the machine work on the block and aluminum heads would be $2500.

I know I could have just gotten a long block and it would have been less expensive. I wanted to do another engine build and this way, I know exactly what I have.

For me, it was less about the money and more about the project. The funny thing is that once it's done, it will be sitting on the test stand until spring when I swap it out. At least I can run it in the shop and get my 'fix' over the winter.

The big winter project will be the '63 F100 4x4. It's been on hold for the past year and I really need to get back on it. If I can't make room to swing the truck around in the shop, I may switch gears and get the body work done on the 63 bed.

I just need my '85 to get me through the snow season then I can take it 'off line' for a bit while I swap engines and do some body work.

I'm changing work schedules in November, so should have a little more time to get some things done. I hope..

Find me a 9.2-9.5:1 EFI 460 with the late (F3) heads. Small block stuff is easy to find. Ask Gary how hard it is to find 335 stuff.

335 stuff is pricey as very few people are doing it. Tim and a guy in Chris' area are basically it.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1b9cdd8287.jpg
Put on a new fender.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c4678cb355.jpg

Took the carburetor off and rebuilt it. Will re-install it tomorrow. Not feeling confident. Ordered some mounting hardware for the new forward fuel tank. I got a fuel sieve for the fuel pump for that tank, so I put that on the new pump and put them both in the new parts stack to go on the truck.

between traffic and fuel problems it took me 3 hours to get home Friday. I don't like changing fuel filters on the side of the NJ turnpike at 5:40. Yesterday I dropped the skid plate and the tank, and ordered a new tank and sending unit. The old tank was replaced just before the truck was parked for 6 years. It looks new on the outside but it was filled with rust and crud. I should have done this from the start instead of thinking that I would filter it out with extra inline filters. I also got a new windshield Friday.