I think it is time for a little update.
The engine is almost done, still need to measure the new pushrods, I am hoping to do that with my engine guy maybe this Friday. Last month of the season here in S. Florida, last straight line and then I will have more time to put into that build! :-jammin

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psopapdjjd.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psvfblp8te.jpg


I will have the frame sandblast next month hopefully. I am cleaning more part, like the brake dust shield, caliper, I found a bad rusted piston with a bad seal, I am glad I went this far and rebuilding everything will make me more confident. It is good to have some HP but I want to have good brake. Talking about brake, I saw on Mike's truck the proportioning valve is attach to the chassis, but mine was really close to the brake booster, did they make two different version?
Here is mine:
http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psdw8hwsbf.jpg

And when looking at LMC, it looks like the proportioning valve is as the same place as Mike's truck, any thought?

Hey guys, no I am not dead and I am still working on this F100 1974! :-wink

So here is the update:

- Engine is done:
http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psvcfrskqw.jpg

- I had someone who came with his dustless sandblast system to do the frame. It was like 90% humidity that day, and flash rust appear real quick! Since I had to wait a couple of day to have a dryer weather I decided to put some phosphoric acid.

The frame before paint:
http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psojebotdm.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psothttpob.jpg

Then I cleaned and rubbed the entire frame with red scotchbrite, degreaser cleaner.
I applied 2 coat of epoxy sealer from House of Kolor and 2 coat of urethane black hotrod.

I am really pleased with the result! :-jammin
http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psdgxqz1ls.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...pscskucocq.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psbo8pet3j.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...pszywtxvny.jpg

- I bring the rear 9'' to a shop to do an inspection, I have new rotors and bearing coming this week, replaced all the bushing with polyurethane one on radius arm and I Beam. I thought it will take me a lot of time and hassles to put the I beam back on, but I had an excellent idea to use a heavy duty ratchet, I didn't take picture :/ sorry, but it really make it easy.


I also had the king pin bushing replaced, I didn't have to use any shims.

So now I started to reinstall all the other stuff, front shock, engine mount, etc...
I replaced all the old bolts and nuts with grade 8, I like the look.
http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psl4ded4gn.jpg

I am really looking forward to have a rolling chassis soon, then I will be able to reinstall the engine and transmission. That will be awesome!!! :-X22

More coming soon!

Cheers :-drink

More picture of the part being painted.
I applied Por 15 few month ago on those parts, I had to scrub with brown pad Scotchbrite, and apply 2 coat of HOK epoxy and 2 coat urethane.

Painting the chassis with a spray gun was my first time! I use the 3M Acuspray gun with liner cup, it make cleaning a breeze, and the amount of cleaner you need to use is very minimal, this is so easy. And for the money the gun is great, as I said for my first paint job I am very pleased.

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0639_zpspoqxnicb.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0639_zpspoqxnicb.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0639_zpspoqxnicb.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0640_zpswavb3yyq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0640_zpswavb3yyq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0640_zpswavb3yyq.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0638_zpsmqazfmed.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0638_zpsmqazfmed.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0638_zpsmqazfmed.jpg"/></a>

And better pictures of the chassis:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0644_zpskl1hcoub.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0644_zpskl1hcoub.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0644_zpskl1hcoub.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0642_zpsg5fcuczv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0642_zpsg5fcuczv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0642_zpsg5fcuczv.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0643_zpsdqh9c6eq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0643_zpsdqh9c6eq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0643_zpsdqh9c6eq.jpg"/></a>

Also I started to look at the small harness going to the back of the truck and realize that both retainer clip on this connector broke!!! Anyone know where I can find a replacement?
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0641_zpsykzi6ktx.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0641_zpsykzi6ktx.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0641_zpsykzi6ktx.jpg"/></a>

Yesterday I got my Differential back from the shop, only one bearing needed to be replace, everything else is in good shape, glad to know that.

So I took it apart again clean it with wire brush, and did the process as the frame, 2 coats of HOK epoxy sealer followed be 2 coats of Urethane.

I also clean more part like steering pump, clutch equalizer, drum etc..

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...pscrzvfclc.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnzte4qj.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psrpkqev9j.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8dvipkdk.jpg

So I pent the morning cleaning and painting, and by the evening I was able to reinstall the axle on the on the leaf spring.
Thas was a good day!

Today I reinstall the drum drum brake and axle, put the wheels back and finally got her sitting on 4 wheels. :)

Then I received my clutch disc, a Mcleod 260131, since everything else was ready, I install the disc, pressure plate, bellhouse, transmission and put it back on the truck, that was a really exciting moment :-X22

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psrjtvkcom.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1gixevxd.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psqkpsdog3.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psbqdmpxas.jpg

Next week I should receive the tie rod kit, looking forward.

Holy smokes man, that looks awesome!!!

Thanks for the kind words AK,

it's been a long road, and I know I still have a lot to do, and I would not be where I am now without you guys on this forum sharing all the good stuff. :-drink
I have been inspired by some of you, I was not planning on doing a full Restoration, but then if I have to do something I like to do it right, and as I read somewhere you don't do a frame off restoration to butcher it..

Here is some more, I was able to tilt the cab and clean all that tar, I used some paint stripper remover, with several application it worked, hard to reach in those little corner, but seems ok to me.
Then I applied 2 coat epoxy and 2 coat urethane.
Looks good, waiting for the new Prothane mounting to arrive from summit and I will reinstall the cab on the chassis.
In the beginning on this thread I cleaned the radiator core support, and used some spray can, and some rust appeared behind! So I decided to strip it with a wire wheel and give the same paint treatment I did for the chassis and cab.
I also painted my old radiator with some Rustoleum engine enamel, I know some people are against that, but this will be a temporary solution until I replace it, but at least I might be able to fire the engine a little bit sooner using the old one and the original fan.

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0008_zpshahz1ul3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0008_zpshahz1ul3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0008_zpshahz1ul3.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0009_zpsf52qskaq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0009_zpsf52qskaq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0009_zpsf52qskaq.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0011_zpsccrav9xu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0011_zpsccrav9xu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0011_zpsccrav9xu.jpg"/></a>

HI all,
Happy 4th of July!!

So I was planning of starting my engine after a 3 years rebuilt, but I run thru some electrical problem, and I think I will definitely need your help on that.

Everything is like new on this truck, brand new optima battery, new starter, new starter solenoid. I replace the distributor with a MSD one.

I did ground everything, engine to firewall, engine to frame, frame to radiator support and starter to frame.

When I turn the key I can hear the solenoid clicking but nothing else. I can see the light in the cab dimming, same with the light on the dash board, they dim and then nothing, like a dead battery. As I said battery is an optima brand new from Summit, so to make sure it was not the battery I use the one from my 4Runner and it did the same thing with a lot of spark coming from the positif terminal on the battery.
I also did the 3g conversion and get rid of the regulator, and I will have more question for that since I have a connector which I don't know where to plug it :)

here is some picture to illustrate what I just said

Starter:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0410_zpsm2ko3nz5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0410_zpsm2ko3nz5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0410_zpsm2ko3nz5.jpg"/></a>

Engine ground:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0411_zpsdoqr2c98.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0411_zpsdoqr2c98.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0411_zpsdoqr2c98.jpg"/></a>

Engine to frame:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0412_zpsqhtptrmk.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0412_zpsqhtptrmk.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0412_zpsqhtptrmk.jpg"/></a>

Alternator 3G: (I did add a 175AMP FUSE)
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0413_zpsp6ccqxkx.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0413_zpsp6ccqxkx.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0413_zpsp6ccqxkx.jpg"/></a>

Solenoid: (I did ground the support of the solenoid)
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0415_zpsvpb9p9fv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0415_zpsvpb9p9fv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0415_zpsvpb9p9fv.jpg"/></a>

My little mess:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0416_zps9jfwehyf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0416_zps9jfwehyf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0416_zps9jfwehyf.jpg"/></a>

I will appreciate any input, I first tried with my original starter that I rebuilt, but it didn't work and thought it was bad, so I went to buy a brand new one this morning, and it does the same thing. It looks like it draw a lot of power when trying to crank, but does not move at all! I can't seem to find the problem, although it seem like a bad ground but, all my grounding have been check several time.

Any help will be much appreciated, thanks

From the pictures, it looks like all your grounds are on painted surfaces. Try scraping the paint off the where the grounding wires are and re-attach, try again.

I know you hate to mess up a nice, painted frame and all, I would too. Give it a try and see what happens.

Thank you Filthy Beast,
You are right on that, it hurt to scratch that nice paint!!! :-arrgh
But I just follow your advice, unbolt all ground and use some sand paper to bring direct to metal contact, put everything back and
it still does the same thing, turn the key, can hear the blower (vent) working, dash light and park light and when trying to crank one click and no more light!!!
:-X19

So now does the distributor wiring or even the ignition module have an importance for the engine to crank, I mean do they have to be wired for the engine to crank??

No, the ICM just switches the coil for a spark, has no bearing on cranking - just starting and running, among other things.

Give the starter solenoid a few whacks with the handle end of a screwdriver. It could be the solenoid is froze. It also needs a good, clean ground.....Ouch again if you have to scrape the paint!

I can hear the solenoid click when I turn the key, and when I tried the solenoid by itself and use a screw driver between "Battery" and "Ignition" i can hear it triggering, and same thing with the old solenoid so I will think they are both good, the truck was starting before the rebuild, This is my second day going thru the electric system. I mean it seem like the starter should turn if I apply a positive from the battery right? and it does not!
I have no clue, and I am out of idea!!!

I know it's a fresh rebuild but does the engine turn freely?
Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and try to turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar.
That header tube isn't touching the stud on the starter is it?

HI Mike,
Thank you for your input.
I just try to turn the engine at the crank pulley and it seem to turn, I mean I have the original fan in the way so I can only move it a little in both way, but it seem it should turn freely.
No the header is pretty tight but there is enough clearance and it is not touching the starter.

Good eyes on that starter stud, Mike.

Do you still have 12+ solid volts at the battery?

Does the + connection still spark when removed/attached? If so, that means a + drain to ground somewhere. I can't help you with the 3g alternator setup - maybe that might be causing a drain, if you still have it.

I thought about some bad wiring when doing the 3g connection, but looking at it this pretty simple. But I also tried to remove the lead from the alternator, so it was not even plug to the solenoid, and it still do the same thing! I will have to make a video.
Thank you for your help guys much appreciated, I will continue to dig into that problem, can't wait to fire the beast!! :-)

You're welcome. There are other tests available, but first call is to find what's causing the sparks on the + connection. Maybe you could pull a fuse, one by one to check if the sparks are gone...

I'm sure Mike (and others) can point you in the right direction....

When I installed my rebuild motor it turned out the NEW starter relay was junk even though it clicked. Because its new doesn't always mean it's good. 😫

If the motor turns freely and the stud on the starter is clear of the header tube, I would then suspect either the new solenoid is bad or the starter is bad.
Use a voltmeter, hook it to the starter side of the solenoid and energize the solenoid. See if you get 12 volts on the output terminal. If you do then the solenoid should be good.
I would remove the starter and use jumper cables to see if the starter energizes with no load.

Alright, I got it her to finally crank!!!
Yes!!!
So it was bad connection on the battery side! I don't know if you can see it on the picture with the battery, I replaced both connector, cut the wire to have clean copper. Did check everything, oil pump, took the valve cover off and saw the oil coming, same at the distributor gear (that small .30 hole in the plug give a nice squirt on the gear).
I had the battery charge for few hours, thought it is brand new but you never know right.
So I did everything right and it works! I thought I could reuse those old battery terminal but I was wrong, don't cut into corner, when you are that far in a rebuild that doesn't make sense.

But now I need her to spark! Since I am by myself I tried to put a voltmeter at the coil input and get ashy 3.6V when cranking, at least I have something, but I will imagine I will need a nice 12V.

But since I replace the dizzy with a MSD one, there is some unconnected wires.

Here is the wiring for the Dizzy 8595 MSD:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/msd%208595_zpshq2ci5ko.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/msd%208595_zpshq2ci5ko.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo msd 8595_zpshq2ci5ko.jpg"/></a>

So after installing the dizzy I have this connector standing by itself!!!!
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0417_zps9cw15ctg.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0417_zps9cw15ctg.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0417_zps9cw15ctg.jpg"/></a>

So I should have 12V, arriving to the coil. So My guess is I should disconnect the starter and try to crank it to see if Ihave the right voltage and spark, is there any problem doing that?

Yes, you should have 12 VDC at the coil, in "RUN" and "START." Did you measure the voltage with the key in "RUN?"

If you're talking about bench testing the starter, there's no problem in that, as Mike alluded to in a previous post. Be careful here as the starter will jump when 12 volts is applied.

If you want to test the starter with it still bolted to the engine, you can jump it by bypassing the solenoid - disconnect the starter cable from the solenoid and jump it to the + battery. The starter is grounded via its bolts to the engine. If it starts/cranks over you know the starter is good and the problem lies with the solenoid and/or its wiring. But you knew all that, yes?

I am at TDC but I have to make sure I am at the end of the exhaust stroke, and then reinstall the distributor and align #1.

Then if I run a 12V from the battery straight to the + of the coil, I should have spark right?

Then if the timing is right, the starter crank, and I have spark, it should start right?


When I tried this morning to crank her, I heard some noise and it was some kind of squirt coming out of the carb!! but not a single detonation, so I believe my distributor is installed 180 degree off, for this test I also had a wire straight from the "I" from the solenoid starter to the "+" of the coil.

Filthy Beast I don't have to check the starter anymore, it was not cranking due to bad connector on the battery side, so I did went thru all your advice, strip the paint for a better ground, change the battery terminal, and it crank right away! :-X0A6

Nicely done!! She's getting closer to running!

Double post :-X19.

NO! That is incorrect!
The #1 cylinder needs to be on the compression stroke (both valves shut), not the overlap stroke (exhaust closing, intake opening).
To make sure the #1 cylinder is on compression. Pull #1 plug, put your finger over the hole and turn the engine over. You'll feel pressure start to build, that's the compression stroke. Turn the engine until the #1 piston is at TDC, then put the distributor in with the rotor pointed to #1.
If you put the distributor in on the overlap stroke, the distributor will be 180 degrees off.

Yes Mike you are right, my bad!

Well My engine guy came last night to have a look, good thing is I was right on the timing, and I had spark!
So the problem was the Street Avenger that I bought on Ebay and that I rebuild.... there is no gas squirting, so I probably did something wrong when rebuilding it. And Danny my engine guy, told me he have a brand new one at his shop a 770CFM. So I went to buy it this morning installed it on the truck, and after a few crank, the engine started!!

You can not believe how happy I am to see that engine running!!! No mufflers, so it is just headers and it is loud but it sounded running very well. I still have to adjust timing (isn't it something with the vacuum line when adjusting timing???) and adjust idle screw it run a little bit high in RPM. So should I AIM for concerning the timing 12 degree BTDC???


Also when I wanted to turn it off, I turn the key but nothing happen, it kept turning, I then unplug ground from battery, and I had to unplug alternator and it stop before I was completed to disconnect the alternator, very weird!!! But it did that only on the first time and turn off properly after that.

But right now I am very happy, all that labor, all that money involve in that rebuild, and learning and doing everything almost by myself for the first time, YES I am a Happy man, this is not beer time yet but I will definitely celebrate tonight!

So here is the video of the first start !

http://vid1072.photobucket.com/album...pseqftalbk.mp4

Sounds pretty damn good! Congratulations.
Learn by doing is the best way in my opinion :-X22.

Hot damn!!! Yes, she sounds real good....you'll be sh**ting in tall cotton now!

On another note - I hope you have a fan shroud - it will help with cooling that new engine down in sunny Florida.

Thank you guys, it is a freaking awesome day!!! :-jammin

Yes I know I still have some work to do before it is drivable. I am working on the break right now, got the Wilwood proportioning valve and the SS break line from Inline, but I just realize that the thread fitting are bigger on the line than the proportioning valve, I am going to look for adaptor.

Yes she sound awesome, I don't know if the cam is for something but I believe it does make it sound good, hydraulic roller cam and lifter :-X22

And yes Filthy Beast I will do the electric fan mod and probably replace the radiator with an aluminum one, because it is hot here in West Palm Beach!!!

Looking to install hydroboost, I saw different thread with people using hydro from Chevy Astro and Ford Super Duty F450, but you need to fab a bracket or shorten the rod going to the brake pedal. I also find that guy who seem to sell some bolt on hydro for the dentside:
Ford F100 and F150 Hydro-Boost Kits and Conversions

Actually you would be better off recoring or replacing your radiator with a stock type unit. Aluminum does not cool as well as a brass/copper radiator. And the difference is quite a bit.

So now that the engine is running, I run into a problem. the steering pump and pit arm are the same, I ordered the tie rod kit and installed it without problem.
But now that everything rest on the wheesl I can see the pit arm is very close to tie rod link!!! I saw on some forum that I could change the pit arm, because right now it is very close and I think it might rub the tie rod if I turn the steering wheel left to right.

Here is some pictures:
Attachment 217524

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0461_zpsbazd7lbs.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0461_zpsbazd7lbs.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0461_zpsbazd7lbs.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0460_zpsdsedc7lu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0460_zpsdsedc7lu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0460_zpsdsedc7lu.jpg"/></a>

I will take a picture of the pit arm itself, but anyone have an idea what could cause this problem other than the wrong pit arm?

Thanks

Is that a Ford pitman arm?
If it is, there should be an ID number cast into it. Post it and I'll see if I can ID the application.

Hi Mike,
Thanks, I will look at it when I get back from work.
I appreciate :-X22

Hi Mike,
I took a few picture, but very hard to reach a camera on the right angle.
So here is what I have:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0480_zpscwlvfmse.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0480_zpscwlvfmse.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0480_zpscwlvfmse.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/IMG_0483_zpsjg61iwzq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/IMG_0483_zpsjg61iwzq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0483_zpsjg61iwzq.jpg"/></a>

I can read: "D2TA-3590-BA"

Any thoughts?

marked D2TA-3590-BA
Arm, steering gear sector shaft
Fits:
73-up F100-250 2WD regular and Super Cab under 8100 GVW w/ power steering
P/N D2TZ-3590-B

HI mike,
Thanks for the infos.
It looks like I have the correct pitman arm, then I don't understand why I have that problem!!!
I even took the steering damper thinking it was pushing too much, but it remain the same without??

Now I am stuck!!!:-X19

Hey everyone, long time not posting anything here!

I finally installed my brake system, I went the Hydro Boost route. I ordered one from
Sweet Performance Engineering Marketing and Design. Matt, the owner, know what he is doing, he sell brand new or rebuild hydro boost. It took 4 weeks to get it done, but the final product is very nice, it come with a threaded rod for the pedal so you can adjust the length for the pedal height, and different threaded rods too. Very easy, bolt on the firewall and same with my original master cylinder.

I went for a spin today, well I made the rear tires to smoke a little bit :-)
BUt I am experiencing some weird thing with the brake pedal!

- First, engine off, if I press the brake pedal and try to start the engine, the engine will have hard time to start!!!? No big deal, I can avoid pressing the pedal before starting.

- Second: when the engine is running, while driving, if I press the brake pedal, the pedal does not come back fast enough, sometimes I have to bring it to normal position with my foot!!!

Also I realize, when I look at the front of the truck that it sit higher on the driver side, I toot measurement at the front fender highest point, and I have 1 inch difference between driver side and passenger side! Everything is stock, I didn't do any modification on the suspension!! Any idea why it will sit lower on passenger side?

And last but not least, I am trying to lower my curb idle, it is around 1200RPM, what should be a normal idle speed/RPM? Does the fact this is a 770CFM? Does it put too much fuel?
Well Sorry I know I am asking a lot of different question, this is where I am now, I also need to adjust the rear drum, and parking brake, anybody know a thread "how to properly adjust your drum brake?"

Thanks in advance for you help guys.