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  #1  
Old 05-15-2014, 07:59 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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390 Crankshaft

HI, I am new to Ford Truck forum and also a newbie in mechanic.
I got a 74 F100 with a 360, I measured the stroke. I was not planning on rebuilding the engine any time soon, but after I took the head , I saw a head gasket was blown!
Now I am planing to rebuilt the engine with a 390 conversion. I bought the book from Barry Rabotnick, and saw the website of his speed-shop: Survival Motorsports.
A bunch of part available their as the 390 reconditioned crankshaft.
Does this crankshaft will fit my truck:
Factory 390 Crankshaft - reconditioned

Then I really thought I had to get some connecting rod for 390, I thought they were shorter than the 360 and I discovered in the book than they are all the same, except for the 352! So I could keep the rod and maybe the piston if no re-bore is necessary, just a ring kit.

I am not planing of making a race or strip truck, but a little Hp will be nice.
I saw a couple of c8aeh head ready to install with a CJ valve job.

The truck have a 3 speed on the floor and a 3.25 rear diff.

I would also like to have a descent mileage.

What are you guys thinking about those different part, will it work?

Any comment is welcome.

Thanks for your advice.


Laurent


ps: photo coming soon
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  #2  
Old 05-15-2014, 08:07 PM
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Bullitt390 Bullitt390 is offline
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joshjones.thewelder
360 uses longer connecting rods. You'll need crank, rods and pistons.

C8AE or D2TE heads with 1.66/2.09 valves are very good and cheap alternatives.

Josh
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  #3  
Old 05-16-2014, 08:18 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Thanks Josh That is what I thought initially, the book confused me..
What is the average price for the CJ head ready to bolt on with the 2.09 - 1.6?
I saw a pair for $900, is it a good deal, they have the 16 bolt pattern for the exhaust.

And here is some picture of the truck, I know I am going a little bit of topic and I should maybe start a new thread, just wanted to share:.

 photo bed3_zpseec74149.jpg

The donor a bed from 82 f150 photo DSC_0048_zps1cdb56ae.jpg

Cutting all the spot weld: photo DSC_0044_zps29834fae.jpg

And the new bed done
 photo DSC_0052_zpscf921041.jpg

Here is the valve cover, the white on the right make me think a head gasket was blown:
 photo DSC_0234_zps26cfa01d.jpg

And the valve:
 photo DSC_0235_zps2906be0b.jpg

the spacer springs on the rocker shaft was broken
 photo DSC_0236_zps5d31284d.jpg

and here is the truck:
 photo chassis4_zps06e3b971.jpg
 photo DSC_0050_zps1bfa3844.jpg
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:48 AM
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Bullitt390 Bullitt390 is offline
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joshjones.thewelder
That's a nice truck that is begging for a healthy motor!

A machine shop should be able to refurbish your existing heads with CJ valves for roughly $600 or less.

If you have the coin I would personally consider a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads. About $1200 for the set.

Josh
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:06 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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The problem is the passenger side head is broken at the exhaust side, as you can see:
 photo DSC_0346_zpscda6880a.jpg

I would like to go for the cheapest option, but I know I have to buy at least one similar head.
I never deal with a machine shop and don't have any idea of what it will cost!

Thanks


Laurent
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:02 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Also I am going to pull the engine and transmission and I would like to know if taking off only the hood will leave enough room?
Thanks
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:29 PM
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joshjones.thewelder
Yep, I have on occasion let the air out of the front tires.

However, I usually drop the tranny from the bottom and lift straight up on the engine from the top.

Josh
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:08 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Thanks Josh,
It is good to know, there is so much bolts who attach the front end!
I was thinking using one of those lift engine plate but I don't know about the strength of the 4 little bolt!...
So any advice for where to attach the chain to the engine will be much appreciated!

Thanks

Laurent
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  #9  
Old 05-20-2014, 11:20 AM
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joshjones.thewelder
The carb plates are perfectly fine for lifting.

Josh
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt390 View Post
The carb plates are perfectly fine for lifting.

Josh
Agree the carb plates are fine. I and many others have used them including heavier engines and aluminum manifolds. Use good grade 5 or 8 bolts with full thread engagement. Tighten them gently, no heavy pre-load is required and lift away.
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:19 PM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Thanks guy,
I got an engine lift plate and the grade 8 bolts, there is approximately 1/2 inch of thread! Everything is ready, I am waiting for my father in law to bring the cherry picker on Saturday and we will give it a shot, I will keep you posted.

Thanks again

Laurent
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:43 PM
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I have a built 390 car motor in my 76 highboy but if I had a short wheel base F100 with 3.28 gears I'd be building a 300 inline six with a ZF-5 trans conversion .. Best gas mileage going for a ford carbed motor and parts .. Plenty of power with a few upgrades Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Really nice job on the bed BTW
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:25 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Thanks Redroad,
I understand putting an inline 6 with an other transmission for better mileage! but this is not going to be a daily driver, I know this is not a reason to try to get a better mileage. How much it will cost to do the swap, isn't it cheaper to stick with what I have, and since I heard you get better fuel efficiency with a 390 that's why I am going this way!
Then I am not sure about the 3 speed manual transmission, is there any 4 or 5 speed who will bolt on? I am sure there is plenty of thread talking about it, and I am not to this point yet. And if changing for a 4 or 5 speed transmission what will be the impact with the 3.28 ratio?
I am not going to race or do strip, I am just looking for a little bit of power. Also I am planning to use it as a truck, like towing a small boat on some occasion. And as I said I am learning HP, torque & compression ratio I am still little bit confused about all of that.

Yes the bed is looking much better, what a pain to file all the holes square! But I am glad I did it.

Thanks

Laurent
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckoloum View Post
Thanks Redroad,
I understand putting an inline 6 with an other transmission for better mileage! but this is not going to be a daily driver, I know this is not a reason to try to get a better mileage. How much it will cost to do the swap, isn't it cheaper to stick with what I have, and since I heard you get better fuel efficiency with a 390 that's why I am going this way!
Then I am not sure about the 3 speed manual transmission, is there any 4 or 5 speed who will bolt on? I am sure there is plenty of thread talking about it, and I am not to this point yet. And if changing for a 4 or 5 speed transmission what will be the impact with the 3.28 ratio?
I am not going to race or do strip, I am just looking for a little bit of power. Also I am planning to use it as a truck, like towing a small boat on some occasion. And as I said I am learning HP, torque & compression ratio I am still little bit confused about all of that.

Yes the bed is looking much better, what a pain to file all the holes square! But I am glad I did it.

Thanks

Laurent
You should be able to find buildable 300 motor for $150 to $300 and sometimes something for that money that still has plenty of life left in it .. As you can afford it you can add an offenhauser 4-barrel intake, a 390 cfm holley 4 barrel carb, a pair of EFI exhaust manifolds, and give it plenty of power to pull anything you want .. afterall they put this motor in dump trucks etc. .. The ZF-5 conversion expense depends on the donor vehicle .. You can find a ZF-5 2ws trans in the $200 to $500 range but you will need some additional parts for that conversion .. or for $100 you could just put in a a NP435 4spd not what I would do but if money is an issue it would work fine until you could afford the ZF-5 swap .. The 390 motor with a 5 speed is a much different matter it would be expensive .. Look up HIO silver build I think he is doing that in an F100

Your truck is lightweight compared to the F250 and F350 4x4 .. I have a 300 in one of my !976 highboys and its plenty of motor for what I use it for an it has a small dump bed on the back and a snow plow brace on the front .. Look in the 300 inline six forum there are plenty of guys building F100's and full size bronco's with 300 six's and absolutely love them and they are getting 17-20 mpg where the most I ever got out of a 390 4 barrel 2wd with manual transmission was 12 mpg ..
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:06 AM
mckoloum mckoloum is offline
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Thanks for the link of HIO, really impressive, I would be curious to see the MPG he get with all those mods.
I started to read about the 300 engine, a bullet proof engine with some people going to 300 000 with only regular oil change!
I will be curious to know how many HP you can get from the 300?
I will keep reading about it but it is going to be hard for me to let the V8 go away! I am from France and moved 6 years ago here in Florida and having a big V8 in France is impossible because of the gas price! When I was in France with a friend we use to listen to V8 on YouTube!..

We pulled the engine on Saturday, my step father and I, and it was easier than I thought. I had to put a lift jack under the transmission, and the engine came preety easy! I didn't have to deflate my tire.
But I can say a flat driveway is a better option, mine have slope, and we had to move the car back because we couldn't move the cherry picker!
Next will be put the engine on the stand and start to open it up.

 photo DSC_0349_zpsd4d5d55c.jpg

 photo DSC_0351_zpsc5092070.jpg

 photo DSC_0353_zpse15e6c60.jpg
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:06 AM
 
 
 
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