Tenn is correct, it's #8 that has the anti-cackle injector, evens on the left and odds on the right.
And as far as oil in the connectors, if anything it's good for them. If you look on the injectors there are no seals on them either. Putting dielectric grease in them would just be a waste of time, because hot oil would melt it all out in no time.

Thanks Spike. Exactly which cylinder is #8. I have a LL injector in the driver's rear cylinder. I thought the LL was supposed to quiet the cackle from the air in the rails. If that's the case the LL should at least be in the front cylinder, not the rear one. The engine tilts up in the front, not the rear. I'm confused.. :-huh

Thanks for the heads up on the plugs and the oil. I thought I might have been missing some seals, etc... Parts won't be in until tomorrow, so I'll see how it goes Sat. If it's even the least bit smoother and/or quieter from a better plug connection I'll be very happy..... :-X03

#8 cylinder is the drivers side rear against the firewall. it has the long lead injector there to help the fuel cackle. it has nothing to do with air in the fuel rails.

the firing order is 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8

what happens is #6 fires then #8 does not have enough fuel that is where the noise comes from. i think that the LL injector delays the firing of #8 slightly so it has a little extra time to fill with fuel.

Thanks, It's all clear to me now...... :)

Guys,

Just got finished putting in the new UVC harnesses and gaskets. Cranked it up and it started romping..... That means I just wasted $150 bucks!!!!!!!!!!

I shut it down and pulled the chip out of it. Cranked it up again and it was still romping. Pulled the ICP, still romped, SES light came on.

Reached under dash and unplugged the throttle pedal and it cleared up ALMOST all the way. Once it got warm it was fine....... Sounds like I have a throttle pedal problem as well as another problem......

I also pulled the exhaust pressure sensor and the coolant temp sensor and cranked it up, no change in tone, etc... Didn't trip the SES though??

Once it's running if I pull the ICP, the engine changes tone some. It gets louder..... Is this normal?

Anymore ideas???????? I'm fresh out. Maybe I'll borrow the throttle pedal from my Dad's truck and see.......

Sounds like you have a GP or GPR problem with that romping.

Edit: all romping goes away after the engine warms up.

At normal idle the icp is usually in the low to mid 500 range. Unplugging the sensor the PCM ask the IPR for 750psi at idle and guesses what you need based on pedal position. So it could make it louder. If unplugging the pedal cured the romps i am suspecting the IVS sensor (part of pedal assembly) is faulty. Another cure for Romps is 5w40 oil. I thought your issue was no power when cold?

Yeah, this has become a long thread. I will have to refresh myself.

The GPR is brand new and the GP's ohm out fine.

My problem was/is romping when cold and just about ZERO power until the temps come up. As the temp starts to rise so do the RPM's and power....

I can literally start it up cold, it'll run rough/romp. I can get it to at least stay running, then I can try to drive it. If I floor it in drive, it'll just idle along. Once the temps come up the rpm's come up and the truck starts to gain speed.

Then as soon as something happens it'll be fine............ I need to find out exactly what that something is!

I thought maybe it was related to a coolant temp sensor issue, but when it does crank up and I let it idle it'll start the cycle of the EBPV, and high idle like it should....

I'm lost. I may put it in the shop Tuesday.............

I might be able to borrow a Predator programmer. What could I look for on it when it's cold and doing the romps?

OK, reviewed it all, sort of. Romp romp comes from a lack of fire in the cylinder when cold. Bad GPs or GPRs. Having said that, there will be no fire if there is not sufficicient fuel in the cylinder if the GP/GPR system is up to snuff. From what I recall, yours is not up to snuff. IIRC your numbers were 6??? Is that corect for the GPs??? If I saw that wrong, and it starts/runs fine when plugged in, then I would look at the fuel system, specifically the fuel pump.

Just thought of this......... Maybe it's all related to the throttle assembly? Possibly the heater vents warm it up and make the problem go away?

I hate to throw money/parts at it to not solve anything. Will anything wrong cause the SES light to come on, or only certain, important, issues. Can there be a code present, but not make the SES illuminate?

I'm going to call my buddy tomorrow to see if he still has that Predator so I can borrow it and read any codes..........


Also, I used to get the romps when I first bought the truck. BUT, it romped in warm weather after it had been running for some time. I would turn the truck off at the store, gas station, etc.... and get in it and it would romp after it was started. It would go away after I would shut it off and restart a few times.

Now it does it from the get go on cold days and does it until it warms up........

Tenn, all of the GP's were between .4 and .6 ohm. That's a good reading from what I was told.

And yes, plugging in does help. I'm so lost on this one!!!!!

Maybe it's oil viscosity related? Maybe fuel pressure? I guess I could try a switch to 5w40 synthetic Rotella and see what happens.

The truck has sat for more than a week. Before I cranked I checked the HPOP and it was full. Didn't check the fuel filter housing though.... Even if it does drain fuel off, loose pressure, etc... that doesn't relate to the plugging in = All OK that I have found.

The romp as we call it sounds like the engine has a large cam. 5w40 can help smooth out cold morning starts, Another thread from a couple of years ago cured his by cycling the key a second time after the fuel pump cut off.

Have you checked voltage across the GP relay to make sure the plugs are getting juice. The ohms look fine, I believe it was an injector reading 6.0. If it is not in the GP system it will lie in the fuel system, do you have a way to check fuel pressure?

This is really bad news John. I suspect you may have a compression problem. There should be no romping with a healthy truck even in the coldest temps. I hope I am wrong but cannot explain your symptoms otherwise, especially with warm weather warm engine romping.

Well even though i mentioned compression in post #2 I am not ready to get on that wagon yet, there are still some test and possibilites. A warm romp could be Old/wrong oil, aerated oil, or low oil.